Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

Lights for speed control pods on steering wheel

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-06-2003, 08:34 PM
rakstr's Avatar
rakstr
rakstr is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Lights for speed control pods on steering wheel

How do you replace the lights for the steering wheel mounted speed control pods on a '98 Explorer? They went out independently and all fuses seem OK
 
  #2  
Old 12-06-2003, 09:27 PM
CC77's Avatar
CC77
CC77 is offline
New User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi rakstr,

This is how you do it on a 95. I know our steering wheels look a little different, but I believe it's the same procedure/parts for both.

*Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and wait at least 10 minutes (because of the airbag).

*Pop off those two little circular plastic caps on each side of the steering wheel. They are about the size of a quarter.

*Take out the screws behind those caps.

*Carefully pull out the airbag and disconnect the wiring harness for it.

*Remove the screws that hold the cruise control switches onto the steering wheel (they are under where the airbag was), unplug the wires going to the switches and take the switches out.

*Carefully pry the top of the switch (the rubbery part with the writing on it) from the hard plastic bottom of the switch.

*You will now see a circuit board with a little (I believe blue) plastic bump in the middle area. That bump is the bulb holder. Turn it clockwise to remove it.

*Go to your local Ford Dealer - or e-mail Torrie from FordPartsNetwork.com at sales@fordpartsnetwork.com and get yourself two Ford part numbers: E5RY13466BA

*Put the new bulbs in (you might have to remove a blue rubber cap off of the old burnt-out bulb and place it on the new one, if your new ones are missing them).

*Put the switch back together. This might take some work as the top part doesn't like to go back on the bottom part too easily. Just take your time and keep at it. Try not to break the plastic teeth that hold the top, bottom, and circuit board together.

*Put everything back together in the reverse order that you removed it.

*Done.

Good luck!
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-2003, 10:52 PM
rakstr's Avatar
rakstr
rakstr is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I almost went that route to begin with but I was afraid of the airbag. Thanks for the heads up!

I'm going to wait until Monday now since I also am replacing the bulb on the headlamp switch. I want to make sure I have all the bulbs before taking anything else apart. How anyone can make changing a bulb so difficult is beyond me. How hard would it be to make these things accessible? Oh well, I guess that would take money out of the service departments!!!!!

CC77, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll let you know how things go Monday.
 
  #4  
Old 12-12-2003, 11:23 AM
rakstr's Avatar
rakstr
rakstr is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK, got the lamps but have a question. When I removed the top boot before (and broke one of the plastice spring clips!) I was able to release the other spring clip with a small screwdriver. I try to remove the circuit board but there was undo friction so I stopped. Keep in mind I only pryed up one side of the boot. I wasn't sure if the circuit borad was held in my some other fastener or if the boot itself was causing the friction. Is there something else securing that circuit board in the bottom plastic or should I remove the entire boot to release it?

Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 12-12-2003, 10:30 PM
CC77's Avatar
CC77
CC77 is offline
New User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by rakstr
I wasn't sure if the circuit borad was held in my some other fastener or if the boot itself was causing the friction. Is there something else securing that circuit board in the bottom plastic or should I remove the entire boot to release it?
Hi rakstr,

There is something else holding it in there; the actual wires that go to the circuit board (see my 5th step, above). I know you probably think that you had the top rubber piece 3/4 off already, and that it would just be easiest to switch the bulbs now and put it back together without removing the switches from the steering wheel, but believe me, especially if you're going to try some surgery to fix the broken clips, you will have the easiest time by removing the switches altogether. It is totally possible to switch the bulbs and snap everything back together without removing the switches, but the easiest/best way (I've found) is to have the whole switch removed and in your hand. Then you can get at it from every angle and not have fight with it so much. Either way you do it, be careful when you're working with the circuit board. You don't want to force something, break it, and then have no other choice but to buy new switches.

Good luck!

P.S. Out of curiosity, how much did your dealer soak you for the bulbs? Thanks.
 
  #6  
Old 12-13-2003, 12:15 PM
rakstr's Avatar
rakstr
rakstr is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks CC77! The bulbs were $6.48 ea. The one that floored me was the dash light for the headlamp control. $12!!!!!!! AND it's on all the time the key is on.......

Just in case, I've already priced the new pods as well. $52 for both. I almost just bought the new controls...... Who knows, I may have to anyway!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vacuumbed
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
4
01-29-2016 06:06 AM
gasman6674
Ford In-Vehicle Tech
0
10-21-2015 11:31 AM
lcgeek
WTB - Parts & other
0
09-29-2015 01:37 PM
bass-n-fire
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
21
03-07-2015 11:44 AM



Quick Reply: Lights for speed control pods on steering wheel



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:27 AM.