Well fellows I need some assistance as your about to see. Yesterday my wife called and said the engine light came on. I asked if anything weird was happening and she stated it used more gas than usual. I had autozone pull the codes then I did the code test to see if they matched and they did and here is what I came up with:

52- power steering pressure switch
22- map sensor
25- knock sensor
13- low rpm test
32- egr valve
33- egr valve

I find it odd that all of these popped up at once and would like to know if there is something that is common to each that might be the problem. I am clueless at this point, wanna talk carbs we can wanna talk general efi setup we can, as to what the he*l I should do with these codes I am clueless. So any ideas and a good place to start would be appreciated. I noticed a faint grinding noise from the passenger side above the alternator but below the intake is that a malfuntioning emissions valve or something. Oh well any thoughts appreciated, later

 

well egr has to do with air fuel mixture and might as well through map sensor in there to knock sensor adjusts timing when under a load to keep motors from knocking or pinging when under a load i would start with map sensor first see if that takes care of the egr but somebody will prob correct me if i'm wrong

 

Check the power steering fluid level, if it's okay then check for leaks. Buy a haynes manual and test the rest of the sensors you listed, replace as needed.

 

You can eliminate the power steering code easily. When you're doing the KOER portion of the test, swing the steering wheel from left to right a few times. No need to go far, maybe a half turn each way. This should eliminate the p.s. code.

Hope this helps.

 

Good info, I do have a haynes manual I will check the sensors themselves, any thoughts on something that might be common to each and the reason for all the codes, 95blackf150 mentioned the map sensor anyone have any comments on that? I guess I will figure it out when I test them but just for the sake of arguement any other opinions appreciated. later

 

I got the code 33 error when I put in another EVP sensor from a junk yard. Put my old one in, got code 31 then. But a code 33 will light up the Check Engine light and code 31 will not. I think it's my EGR not my EVP though. I hope this helps some.

 

You've skipped the important parts of those code definitions. Look them up in my list.

 

steve83 I looked at your codes definitions and they were similar to the ones in the haynes manual, unless I missed a link or something.

Any thoughts on this? At this point this is what I have done. I checked for vacum at idle from the efi sensor and got nothing reved motor a bit and still nothing. I put manifold vacum directly to the egr valve and that sucker ran like crap and became very rich so that appears good. I capped the sensor off and drove it and when I returned to uncap it it made a hissing sound like vacuum had been drawn so my guess is it is working properly no vacuum at idle but vacuum under acceleration so that is probably okay. ONly thing left is the map sensor. Does it appear I am on the right track thinking the map sensor is bad? I may try and hook up a tach like the manual suggests or replace. Any thoughts?

 

jwtaylor, Sounds like your on the right track to me. I just replaced my EGR and EVP and it seems to of helped quite a bit. I was junk yard hunting this weekend and found them there. Only thing I notice is that the idle isn't quite as smooth sometimes as it used to be. Althought it comes down to idle much better than it used to. I was going to replace the O2 sensor but I couldn't get it off yet. I have another MAP sensor I want to try next.

 

Dan Tana

Yeah the o2 sensor is a bi*ch to get off that is for sure I cut the wire and put a socket on mine took a breaker bar and a two foot length of pipe I also sprayed some penetrating oil on it as well it finally came off. Good luck with it

 

Did your PS code go away when you swung the wheel during the test?
Several of your codes could be vacuum related, I would check closely for vacuum leaks, etc.
MAP sensor test is easy, check for output to vary as you pull a vacuum on it. Same with EGR position sensor.

 

I actually thought I heard a vacum leak but it was faint and before I had a serious leak between the egr valve and manifold and did not get a light I actually thought it might be that same leak as previous but I cheked around it sprayed some penetraing oil around the leak and the engine didn't rev up and it just dripped down so I am keeping and eye or ear out for leaks but have yet to pinpoint one, appreciate the response

 

Well a little update

As mentioned I think I ruled out the egr sensor or valve. I did put a meter on the map sensor and with the key on it showed 5 volts as it should. It states to put 20hg of vacum on it and read it well I don't have a vacum pump so I just started the truck as it already has the line hooked up to manifold vacum (it does produce 19hg of vacum) and it remained at 5 volts so I would guess that since it didn't drop to 1 volt like it should maybe it is a faulty sensor I am guessing the vacum determines the voltage that is sent out by the sensor so I am on track here. Or would starting the motor completely cause a faulty reading it does state key on so I would imagine that starting the vehicle is no different unless something triggers the map to hold a certain voltage when turned on? I will consider it a bad map sensor unless someone reads this and interprets something different. I guess I will find out when I replace it, I am gonna wait until tommorrow so if anyone wants to post a suggestion before then that would be appreciated, later

 

jwtaylor, I put in my other MAP sensor today, it seems to idle much smoother than before. The only thing I want to cure now is the way it comes back to idle. It seems to take several seconds after throttle for it to idle back down. I'm not sure this is normal or not, it could be, if someone bought one of these new and experienced the same thing I'd be curious to hear.

 

when i first start mine cold it idles a bit hight but i just kick it down like i did when i was starting my older vehicles with carburation and it kicks down