97 explorer front ball joints and ABS system problems
#1
97 explorer front ball joints and ABS system problems
97 ford explorer XLT 5liter. Recent problem was a completely drained battery (only 3yrs old) switched out no problems. Rear brake noise replaced rotors and pads. Had some suspension issues and just had the both front ball joints replaced with new shocks and front alignment (one wheel a little chewed up due to the bad front end). This was a necessary repair (although it shouldnt really be needed at 83000 miles) as i could feel the problem in handling and was chewing up the tires. Both these services were done at the same time.
Now a new problem:
I got the truck back and the ABS system now kicks in ONLY when i am just about to stop (2-3mph) and when i easy down gently the pedal. NO ABS light is on. It is the ABS. When the ABS kicks the car then pulls to the right passanger side. The shop (good bunch of guys) has had it in two times in the last days on two separate computers systems and everything appears normal when connected. They "scoped" the sensors and are puzzled by the nature of the problem. This of course only appeared after they worked on the front end and appears to be related to that service (although the battery drain??). They did replace the rear brakes and rotors (took it in as the rear brakes were making a dragging sound). I have had some strange issues with the ABS before, kicking during braking when not supposed to in the past, but not everytime is am about to stop. They suggested now to replace the front wheel sensors (need to do as a pair? movement to the right suggests a sided problem) for more big bucks! I am concerned that this will not fix the problem. Why is the ABS light not on? What is the relationship between there service work and the ABS system, what might they have done? Why is my car computer unable to detect the ABS malfunction? I am curious if any experts have some suggestions for me. Should i invest in the sensors or is there something you would do first. What do you think these guys might have failed to adjust? to result in the problem. ANy suggestions would be helpful.
Now a new problem:
I got the truck back and the ABS system now kicks in ONLY when i am just about to stop (2-3mph) and when i easy down gently the pedal. NO ABS light is on. It is the ABS. When the ABS kicks the car then pulls to the right passanger side. The shop (good bunch of guys) has had it in two times in the last days on two separate computers systems and everything appears normal when connected. They "scoped" the sensors and are puzzled by the nature of the problem. This of course only appeared after they worked on the front end and appears to be related to that service (although the battery drain??). They did replace the rear brakes and rotors (took it in as the rear brakes were making a dragging sound). I have had some strange issues with the ABS before, kicking during braking when not supposed to in the past, but not everytime is am about to stop. They suggested now to replace the front wheel sensors (need to do as a pair? movement to the right suggests a sided problem) for more big bucks! I am concerned that this will not fix the problem. Why is the ABS light not on? What is the relationship between there service work and the ABS system, what might they have done? Why is my car computer unable to detect the ABS malfunction? I am curious if any experts have some suggestions for me. Should i invest in the sensors or is there something you would do first. What do you think these guys might have failed to adjust? to result in the problem. ANy suggestions would be helpful.
#2
If I remember correctly the abs fron t sensors are not that hard or that expensive to replace .
They could have put stress on the sensor wiring when working on ball joints and now you have a intermitent connection back to the computer.
Now if they broke into your brake system did they do the proper bleeding of your system?
abs bleeding is different than non abs.
Are you sure your abs light works?
does it light up during start up self test?
Rich
They could have put stress on the sensor wiring when working on ball joints and now you have a intermitent connection back to the computer.
Now if they broke into your brake system did they do the proper bleeding of your system?
abs bleeding is different than non abs.
Are you sure your abs light works?
does it light up during start up self test?
Rich
#3
That's really strange because I'm having the exact same problem, except a 1994. New front ball joints, upper and lower, and radius arm bushings were done. And also a universal joint in the front. And my Explorer is doing the exact same thing. Brakes down fine until around 5 mph the the pump kicks in and I can feel it pull off to the right very bad. I ran a test and came up with bad left and right sensors, but why is what I'd like to know. They were just removed from the arm then replaced. The ABS light won't come on because it's functioning. I can kick the light on by locking the brakes up a few times in a row, then the ABS light will come on and the ABS system is disabled. No more pullong to the right then. If you find a solution, let me know, I'm having a heck of a time figuring this one out.
Jon
Jon
#4
Front ABS Problems on mid-90's Explorer
I found the previous two messages regarding the front ABS activating just before coming to a complete stop, with a pull to the right when it activates...I'm having that exact same problem and wondered if either of the others has found a solution. My sensors test OK and the brakes are relatively new all around. I would e-mail rnhasko or jonnie, but I just registered and can't e-mail for fifteen days and until I post 15 messages. Can anyone help me out with answers, or by e-mailing the two others who had the same problem to ask what they eventually did to solve it? My email is Email Address Removed By Moderator for anyone who is willing to give me a hand with this.
Thanks
Thanks
#5
I had the same problem on my 95 explorer. what fixed it was, replacing the left side hub and bearing assy. The bearing had too much wear in it, causing the sensor to fire off the abs. A week latrer I replaced the right side because it was noisy. After this, I noticed that the truck ran much smoother.
#6
When you replace the front hub/bearing they come with new sensors maybe that fixed the problem the sensors are easily replaced and inexpensive I would change them both on the front and see what happens also make sure break system was bled out if they opened it up or maybe they got air into it and din't know so didn't bleed it out???
#7
Front ABS problems
I appreciate the responses regarding my ABS problems. I'm not sure though if we're talking about the same design. My sensors are not part of the hub and bearing assembly, but are installed into a small hole right in the front axle shaft, held in by a single bolt. Also, mine are not inexpensive as a few here have said, my dealer gave a price of around $150, and said left and right needed to be replaced together because of new an updated design.
Does any of this sound familiar to those of you who have had similar problems?
Thanks a lot for any additional info!
Larry
Does any of this sound familiar to those of you who have had similar problems?
Thanks a lot for any additional info!
Larry
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Not sure what your mechanic was refering to. I bought Timken wheel hubs, as used in 4WD, for $140, but the average price is about $180 just for the part. To remove ball joints, the hub bearing is removed and this puts a strain on the sensor leads. Sensor can be pulled out but this can be difficult because of rust forming in the last 1/4 inch of the sensor hole. You should be able to buy the sensor for less than $40. Sensor alone may be hard to find. If you have more than 100K, you should replace the bearing hubs. They have very little reserve grease in them and have very little life left in them.
#10
If you go to your local parts store--NAPA, Advance Auto Parts etc.-, Ask for a CR hub assy #br930252. This is a hub assy including abs sensor. The one # fits both sides. The bracket that holds the sensor wire is universal, the ford sensor bracket is left 0r right. Cost in Canada is around 318.00
#11
FIXED Problem with ABS after front ball joint replacement
I just replaced front upper and lower ball joints, got new tires and alignment, and brake pads on a 1996 Ford Explorer LT 4WD 4.0L. Parts totaled $800 already. After I put everything back together, I started having problems with the ABS as described above. :-(
I went out and bought a new wheel bearing with the new ABS cord at $200/per side for the side that was not functioning correctly. However, I tried one last thing before replacing the old ABS cord and bearing, AND IT WORKED!
Here was the solution:
1. Took tire, brakes, and rotor off.
2. Removed shield covering the ABS sensor connecting to the bearing.
3. Removed the ABS sensor cord from the bearing.
4. Chipped off the rust around the sensor hole with a screwdriver and hammer. This was the KEY!
5. Used sandpaper to clean up the face of the sensor hole and the screw hole.
6. Blew compressed air into both holes to clean out any fibers and debris. Q-Tips worked, too.
7. Used a little oil to soften up the "O" ring on the ABS sensor.
8. Placed a dab of grease around the opening of the sensor hole.
9. Cleaned off the magnet on the ABS sensor cord end.
10. Replace the ABS cord into its hole and tightened the screw to make it snug.
11. Wiped off excess grease from the area.
12. Checked to see a good seal around the ABS sensor.
13. Replaced shield, rotor, brakes, and tire.
Praise God it worked! I'm taking back the new/unused ABS cord and wheel bearing and saving myself the $200!
I went out and bought a new wheel bearing with the new ABS cord at $200/per side for the side that was not functioning correctly. However, I tried one last thing before replacing the old ABS cord and bearing, AND IT WORKED!
Here was the solution:
1. Took tire, brakes, and rotor off.
2. Removed shield covering the ABS sensor connecting to the bearing.
3. Removed the ABS sensor cord from the bearing.
4. Chipped off the rust around the sensor hole with a screwdriver and hammer. This was the KEY!
5. Used sandpaper to clean up the face of the sensor hole and the screw hole.
6. Blew compressed air into both holes to clean out any fibers and debris. Q-Tips worked, too.
7. Used a little oil to soften up the "O" ring on the ABS sensor.
8. Placed a dab of grease around the opening of the sensor hole.
9. Cleaned off the magnet on the ABS sensor cord end.
10. Replace the ABS cord into its hole and tightened the screw to make it snug.
11. Wiped off excess grease from the area.
12. Checked to see a good seal around the ABS sensor.
13. Replaced shield, rotor, brakes, and tire.
Praise God it worked! I'm taking back the new/unused ABS cord and wheel bearing and saving myself the $200!
#12
Not that you want to go back, but the bearing can be greased through that sensor hole. An oversize zerk fitting with some tape wrapped around the threads will fit nicely into the sensor hole and allow you to pump in grease. I would avoid using the common lithium based greases in case they were factory packed with a polyurea base.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
osage
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
15
08-16-2012 07:54 PM
juggernaut2874
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
13
04-23-2007 08:32 AM