Driveline vibration
#1
Driveline vibration
Anyone with an 80-96 truck with 6" of lift have vibration when they lock their front hubs? I think i'm getting vibration from my front u-joint angles and I'm wondering if anyone else has this too. When I get the chance i'm going to take the front driveshaft off and see if that vibration goes away but, anyone have this too?
#2
#5
oppostite shaft u-joints are supposed to be set at the same degrees, which can change with lift. Lift can also affect your alignment and worsen steering problems causing this. First, check your alignment, and then for any visible worn parts in your steering or u-joints. Chances are you'll fix the problem with the alignment, or at least find something loose. If not we'll work from there.
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#8
Originally posted by MustangGT221
Well this vibration only happens when I'm in 4wd, so alignment and all that doesn't matter.
Well this vibration only happens when I'm in 4wd, so alignment and all that doesn't matter.
#9
Same Problem
Justin, and thread readers,
I have the same problem. I just purchased a '90 F250 4x4 with a 4" Skyjacker Lift and 35" Tires. The front vibrates with the hubs locked. With no front driveshaft, and the hubs locked, the vibration goes away. It starts at 35 MPH, and rattles your teeth at 55 MPH. The kid that I bought it from said that it started doing that when he installed the lift. Does anyone know of a solution.
Thanks,
Jeff
I have the same problem. I just purchased a '90 F250 4x4 with a 4" Skyjacker Lift and 35" Tires. The front vibrates with the hubs locked. With no front driveshaft, and the hubs locked, the vibration goes away. It starts at 35 MPH, and rattles your teeth at 55 MPH. The kid that I bought it from said that it started doing that when he installed the lift. Does anyone know of a solution.
Thanks,
Jeff
#10
Originally posted by MustangGT221
. . . I was previously in an accident where my front suspension was damaged and the front driveshaft was bent.
. . . I was previously in an accident where my front suspension was damaged and the front driveshaft was bent.
#11
My F-250 had the identical vibration problem from the front end when in 4WD after a 4" Skyjacker lift was installed. The problem was due to an excessive u-joint angle on the transfer case end of the front driveshaft.
I installed a new driveshaft that had a CV joint in place of the single u-joint on the transfer case end of the driveshaft. The driveshaft required installation of an F-350 output yoke on the transfer case (simple job). The driveshaft was basically an F-350 unit with a CV joint. Any of the custom driveshaft shop should be able to fix you up.
When the new driveshaft was installed, the front end was quiet again. That driveshaft was installed in '95 and has worked flawlessly since then.
Lou Braun
I installed a new driveshaft that had a CV joint in place of the single u-joint on the transfer case end of the driveshaft. The driveshaft required installation of an F-350 output yoke on the transfer case (simple job). The driveshaft was basically an F-350 unit with a CV joint. Any of the custom driveshaft shop should be able to fix you up.
When the new driveshaft was installed, the front end was quiet again. That driveshaft was installed in '95 and has worked flawlessly since then.
Lou Braun
#12
Lou,
Thanks for the input! I thought that angle looked severe for a single U-Joint. Also, I talked with the Previous Owner last night, and he indicated that the driveshaft is rubbing against the crossmember. I looked at it, and there is a small area where it looks like it has been hitting, but the area has surface rust, and it doesn't appear like it is hitting very hard because there are no visible marks on the driveshaft. There is only about 1/2 inch of clearance between the driveshaft and the crossmember. I will grind the crossmember down a little, and if that doesn't fix it, I will head over to the driveshaft shop. What you said makes a lot of sense. I would estimate the driveshaft angle to be at least 20-25 degrees from horizontal.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks for the input! I thought that angle looked severe for a single U-Joint. Also, I talked with the Previous Owner last night, and he indicated that the driveshaft is rubbing against the crossmember. I looked at it, and there is a small area where it looks like it has been hitting, but the area has surface rust, and it doesn't appear like it is hitting very hard because there are no visible marks on the driveshaft. There is only about 1/2 inch of clearance between the driveshaft and the crossmember. I will grind the crossmember down a little, and if that doesn't fix it, I will head over to the driveshaft shop. What you said makes a lot of sense. I would estimate the driveshaft angle to be at least 20-25 degrees from horizontal.
Thanks,
Jeff
#13
Jarch,
While you are down there with the grinder, look at the clearance between the passenger's side u-joint and the axle pivot bracket. There is very little clearance down there and the u-joint yoke can touch the bracket a little when it turns. As you might guess, this makes *lots* of noise and vibration when the hubs are locked.
I'd go for at least 1/8 inch minimum clearance between the yoke and the bracket. Just grind the edges of the joke - almost no material is removed and the strength of the joint is not affected.
I hope that you will be able to eliminate the noise with a bit of grinding. If not, the driveshaft swap will do the job. On my F250, there is about 1 inch of clearance between the driveshaft's CV joint and the crossmember. The original driveshaft was close to the crossmember but did not touch it.
Lou Braun
While you are down there with the grinder, look at the clearance between the passenger's side u-joint and the axle pivot bracket. There is very little clearance down there and the u-joint yoke can touch the bracket a little when it turns. As you might guess, this makes *lots* of noise and vibration when the hubs are locked.
I'd go for at least 1/8 inch minimum clearance between the yoke and the bracket. Just grind the edges of the joke - almost no material is removed and the strength of the joint is not affected.
I hope that you will be able to eliminate the noise with a bit of grinding. If not, the driveshaft swap will do the job. On my F250, there is about 1 inch of clearance between the driveshaft's CV joint and the crossmember. The original driveshaft was close to the crossmember but did not touch it.
Lou Braun
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