I own a 1996 XL Ford Ranger 2wd 5 speed manual.

Last week I had it in for some service, which included bleeding the clutch lines and new fluid.

Since then when putting it in reverse the transmission grids. It is also very difficult to get into first gear - I really have to shove hard on the stick.

Better Description of symptoms:
When the vehicle is moving it shifts fine. When I come to a stop, put it in neutral and let out on the clutch, it is then very difficult to get back into first gear. If I leave the clutch in, fter I come to a stop, I can shift around to all the gears no problem. It's only when I let out on the clutch, then push it back in to shift into first is the difficult part.

With reverse, I have to move ahead a bit, THEN I can shift to reverse without the grinding noise.

I talked to my mehcanic who check to ensure the fluid was NOT low (it wasn't) and no air bubble existed in the line. After that was checked, he said the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.

Well, then, why wasn't it doing this BEFORE I had him bleed the lines? It started the day I picked the truck up from service.

Its going to be over $900 (Canadian) to fix this problem and he recommends the following (bear with me I know nothing of vehicles and these are the words written on the quote);
- slave cylinder
- new line
- disc
- preasure

I am asking why this wouldhappen after he bleed the lines?
Is there another problem that can cause this?

Thanks
Digger

 

Sounds like air in the line to me. If the clutch was worn it would be slipping. I usually drive in third gear @ about 1200 rpm and stomp the gas, if it lugs but goes your clutch is not worn. If it is worn, you will feel it and hear it slip.

 

What does a slipping clutch sound/feel like? I have a feeling that if I drive at 1200RPM in 3rd gear, the truck is gonna buck something awful.

Digger

 

The idea is to drive fast enough to not have a big load on the engine with light throttle. You may have to go a little faster than 1200, maybe 1500. When you "stomp" it the truck should lug along with little increase in rpm (slow increase). If you hear the rpm's start to take off with little increase in speed than the clutch is slipping.
Think of it like when you don't let the pedal out all the way and you give it gas. It's real easy to rev it up because the clutch hasn't grabbed yet.

 

Ok I understand. I'll give that a try.

Thank you!

 

How much free play do you have in the pedal? It sounds like you have way too much. I need to replace the master cylinder on a 99 because you need to pump it a few times to get more pedal.

A worn clutch will not cause your problem. He is feeding you a line. Plus it was ok when you took it in. I would bleed it again, but have someone else do it.

 

A few months ago I was looking at the manual for this truck and it described (going on my memory here) that to check the clutch pedal you have to gently push it with your hand and there should be about 5-10mm of movement before you feel resistance. I have about that much movement in the pedal.

The mechanic told me to pump thje pedal a few times to see if it made any difference, it doesn't.

Like I said, it shifts fine when moving, only when you take off the clutch and put it back in THEN try to shift into first is when it gets difficult. For reverse, I have to move ahead a little, then shift into reverse so it will not grind.

Digger

 

You sound like you have the proper freeplay and if it doesn't get better when pumping the pedal than you probably don't have air in the line. However Mike sounds like he does.
This don't sound like a worn disc problem either. The thing is that the disc is not being fully disengaged. That could be a master cylinder or a slave problem. Is the slave on the outside of the bell housing or is it inside on these? If it's inside then while the trans is out this would be the time to replace the disc and pressure plate.
Might also want to check the fluid level in the trans. Just because.

 

I asked my mechanic is he can tell if the clutch is worn. He said no because the whole shebang is contained within a bell housing. You can't see it.

On the quote he gave me a preasure plate and disc where included, so I assume it is the same as you said above. While your in there you might as well replace the plate and disc.

But I keep coming back to the question of WHY did the grinding in reverse and difficulty of putting it into first gear did not happen BEFORE he bleed the lines. The very day that I pick up the truck after this work was done, this new problem started.

Quite suspicious, don't you think?

I am going to bring it to a Ford dealer (groan$$) and see what they say about this problem.

 

My truck did the same thing, grinding into reverse and hard to put into first from a stop. Also when I ran at higher rpms for an extended period of time it was hard to shift. I know absolutely nothing about transmissions, so I took it to have it looked at expecting to need a new clutch. They topped off the slave cylinder and it was fine for about four months. I am, however, beginning to notice the difficulties again like before.
So with that in mind, is there a gasket or another part that goes bad causing the slave to lose fluid?

 

There is a rubber plug on the bellhousing that you can pull off to look inside. Check for fluid leaks.

Ford has had problems with this setup. My master cylinder in made in France. No wonder they have problems.

 

Ok I tried it. Flat road, shifted up to 3rd gear, and at about 1200-1500RPMs (in 3rd gear) I stomped on the gas:

It lagged for a split second, bucked a tiny bit, then started to pick up speed, but it did not rev high with little increase in speed. The RPMs and the speed of the truck seemed to increase together.

So is this what it would normally do with a good clutch?

 

Mechanic said there were no fluid leaks. I assume he looked in the bell housing.

I also did that 3rd gear, low RPM, test that stepman suggested (see post above) and it seemed to work fine.

Soooooo, why is the thing grinding in reverse and.....sticky in first?

I have an appointment for Friday with the Ford dealer ($$). To get a second opinion.

But more info is helpful guys. :-) I have more...questions or suggestions for the second opinion on Friday.

Thanks and keep em comin'!

Digger

 

Yes that sounds like your disc is still good. The only time I would change that would be if the trans had to be pulled for something. Is the slave on these internal? If it's leaking, which I can't see it doing unless you have to keep adding fluid, then I would change change the disc at the same time. ( just to not have to go in again in 6 months)
Since you said it didn't act like this before, I think I would drain the fluid that is in it and refill and bleed with good fluid.

 

The clutch is holding its own so it is not a disc problem.

It is not RELEASING all the way, that's why it's hard to get into gear.