1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Fuel Pressure/Pump Questions

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Old 03-04-2017, 06:22 PM
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Fuel Pressure/Pump Questions

97 Superduty dump truck 7.3 Turbo, auto. 185K miles.

Truck sits for weeks/months at a time, only driven about 1000 miles a year.
The truck never was fast but seemed fine when I got it (5 years ago) but in the past year+ it has no power. I have little to no power at all when the truck is cold. It has a hard time getting to 25 mph empty even on a warm day. After a long warmup and 4-5 times though the gears it gets a little better but still not where is was a couple years ago.

Last summer I pulled the fuel pickups from both tanks, the 97 does not use the extra in tank filters so no blockage there. I replaced the pickup and screen in both tanks as they were broken and laying in the bottom of the tanks. I also cleaned the fuel bowl (not bad) and installed a new filter. Hard to tell but at the time I thought it got slightly better but still not where it should be.

It has a recent oil and filter change. It starts right up, idles nice when cold but a little rougher when warm. Never blows any smoke.

I have seen videos saying I should have 50+psi fuel pressure. I put a gauge on the valve at the front of the regulator box. I got 10 psi at idle, 18 at 2200 rpm. The valve was on the truck when I got it. Is it the correct place to check the pressure? I'm wondering if it is checking the low pressure fuel filter pressure or the second stage higher pressure return.

I have a new lift pump on hand and will replace it this week. Turbo looks like a bear to remove - can I get that pump replaced without removing it?

Should I also do the BB regulator spring mod?

I do have a Snap-On scanner so I can get you any other info you think would be helpful.

Thanks in advance!
 
  #2  
Old 03-04-2017, 06:59 PM
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You can replace the pump without removing the turbo yes, it may get a little tricky though. I removed my pump without taking the turbo off with no issues.

Having fuel psi that low is a very bad thing. It can be very hard on your injectors which will be an expensive repair if you don't get it up soon. It seems like you are putting the valve in the right spot as well. It's the little schrader valve on the front of the brass looking thing sticking off the fuel bowl.

You should be reading 40psi minimum to be safe at idle, but having it around 60 to 70 is better. I would highly recommend replacing that lift pump, then testing the psi again, then putting a bb in there if it's under 50psi at idle.
 
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Old 03-04-2017, 10:29 PM
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The angled end of a combo wrench will get at that banjo bolt under the turbo or a custom built wrench.
 
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:50 AM
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Ok, trying to save a little time...
Can I replace the pump without pulling the fuel bowl? Is there enough room to do it easily or should I just pull the bowl?

The bowl looked pretty clean when I replaced the filter.
 
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Old 03-05-2017, 09:27 AM
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Well you can, but it will probably take a little more time to work around having the bowl in place. I'd probably take the bowl out and also see if you can replace those little hoses connecting the bowl and pump together.
 
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Old 03-05-2017, 09:36 AM
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You can have the bowl out in 20 minutes and it needs to be out of the way. The time to remove it is well worth the access and it will give you a chance to clean up the valley.
 
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Old 03-05-2017, 09:46 AM
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With the strainers broken off in both tanks, there's at least some chance that one or both of them had a fragment of the old showerhead sucked up through the pickup, and lodged in the selector valve. That MIGHT account in part for the low pressure. Test option - disconnect the supply line going forward from the selector to the engine, and dip it in a jerry can of fuel, and see if anything changes.
 
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