Fuse panel question
#16
I measured both sides of the open 2A fuse holder with the key both off and on and the light switch rotated fully clockwise and all the way back to counter-clockwise. There's no power there. The dome light works with the **** fully CCW. The headlights, taillights and park lights work, so the switch may be good.
It's interesting that it's wired so the lighter, the dome light, the headlights and taillights are all hot all the time, but the instrument panel lights and brake lights have to have the key on. I understand that for the heater and the radio. But I don't get it for the dash lights and brake lights. And the emergency flasher circuit is hot too, which it should be. But the turn signals have to have the key on.
#17
I think you misunderstood my post.
The 2amp fuse for the dash lights goes through the headlight switch and is only hot when the switch is on (pulled out both 1 & 2 steps)
the open unfused posts that you questioned are only hot with key switch on (either acc or run)
All lights should work with key off
The 2amp fuse for the dash lights goes through the headlight switch and is only hot when the switch is on (pulled out both 1 & 2 steps)
the open unfused posts that you questioned are only hot with key switch on (either acc or run)
All lights should work with key off
#19
Off on another tangent... sort of
I'm trying to figure out my wiring problems. In checking the fuse panel where there's no power to the 2A fuse for the instrument panel lights, I wanted to check the wire for that circuit on the light switch, as recommended by AZSCAWPION...
To me, it looks like the light switch is wired backwards. According to multiple diagrams I have, the light switch has 6 wires going to it. The headlight red-yellow wire is in the right spot. But it appears the rest of the wires are swapped side-to-side. Tell me if I'm looking at this wrong...
In the diagrams, the blue-red wire for the instrument panel lights is shown on the left (driver) side of the switch. The black-blue wire for the dome light is shown on the right (passenger) side. The brown wire for the taillights is shown on the left center connector.
Even the black-orange wire to power the switch is shown opposite of the way my switch is wired.
And also troubling is the empty connector behind the light switch on the green-red wire. The only reference I see for that color wire is for the alternator to a junction on the ignition switch accessories post. The truck starts and runs well, so I don't see how that could be hanging loose.
To me, it looks like the light switch is wired backwards. According to multiple diagrams I have, the light switch has 6 wires going to it. The headlight red-yellow wire is in the right spot. But it appears the rest of the wires are swapped side-to-side. Tell me if I'm looking at this wrong...
In the diagrams, the blue-red wire for the instrument panel lights is shown on the left (driver) side of the switch. The black-blue wire for the dome light is shown on the right (passenger) side. The brown wire for the taillights is shown on the left center connector.
Even the black-orange wire to power the switch is shown opposite of the way my switch is wired.
And also troubling is the empty connector behind the light switch on the green-red wire. The only reference I see for that color wire is for the alternator to a junction on the ignition switch accessories post. The truck starts and runs well, so I don't see how that could be hanging loose.
#20
I think you misunderstood my post.
The 2amp fuse for the dash lights goes through the headlight switch and is only hot when the switch is on (pulled out both 1 & 2 steps)
the open unfused posts that you questioned are only hot with key switch on (either acc or run)
All lights should work with key off
The 2amp fuse for the dash lights goes through the headlight switch and is only hot when the switch is on (pulled out both 1 & 2 steps)
the open unfused posts that you questioned are only hot with key switch on (either acc or run)
All lights should work with key off
Yep, the 2A fuse holder has power with the light switch pulled out. Thanks for the sanity check.
#21
#22
My problem is a few things don't work, and the under-dash wiring is a real mess. Well, I guess my real problem is I am too old to work under the dash without removing the seat. So, I'm trying to do as much research on the correct wiring before I take the truck down. I am no longer agile...
I have to assume (and you know what that does) that my dash lights will work when I replace the fuse. So that's one down. Thanks again.
My heater does not work, meaning the blower does not come on. Probably a bad motor, but it may not be wired right. I removed the PO's bypass fuse, replaced the glass 20A fuse and have power on both sides of the fuse holder now.
My turn signal and emergency indicators don't work right. Probably mis-wired somewhere. The front and back lights work properly. The left indicator works correctly. The right and left indicators flash when right turn is selected. Only the right indicator flashes when the emergency switch is pulled. That's why I think it's mis-wired. Can you tell me if the 2 flashers shown in my diagrams exist in a stock truck? One is shown for turn signals and another for emergency flasher.
My windshield wipers don't work. I don't know if it's the motor, the switch or the wiring. Again, I have to get under the dash.
The original wiring harness has been spliced in several places to add devices. I'm not sure if anything has been deleted as a result. I have two circuit breakers installed on the driver side inner fender. I have no idea what their rating is or what circuit they are in, but they are hot all the time.
I think I can figure out most of this once I can get to it. I rewired my 51 F4 from scratch to replace the original wiring harness. That was a much simpler truck, electrically.
Thanks for your help.
#24
I'll send you a PM. I'm sure I'll need more help at some point.
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