had no idea they threaded through -body. i could use a needle fitting on an air powered, and go to town!! grease everywhere.

 

fordmann on this internet has told me that for the inner seals, a later model ford 2 piece seal is the ticket. it functions like the wheel hub seals that are so expensive.

just throwing that out there

 

I thought about tapping and installing a zerk in the hub, but it's always after things are back together lol and don't want shavings in there of course but would have to remember to take it out before rotating tires so it don't get snapped off. Perhaps could tap one in the lock out...

I always went slow with greasing through the hub screw, I suppose could push out the wheel hub seal if going crazy.

Will have to look into the 2 piece seal, as long as it wouldn't get pushed out during grease job.

Once the hubs are chock full of grease, the lockouts may not unlock due to no room for movement.

 

interesting concept


especially for driving through water like we do here in the PNW .

we get a lot of run off and seasonal rivers of water that soak things pretty heavily. i've replaced a number of spindles due to not addressing this problem, and you have solved it for me!!

i should think that removing the warn lock hub, and pushing grease inside the spindle should take care of the spindle bearing. just fill it plumb full of grease.
the wheel bearings i have greased in the traditional manner and should be good. but if i want to access the hub to push water out, maybe an 1/8 inch plug npt recessed like on our engine block oil galleys in the side of the hub might do the trick. i'm all over this,
as after this summer's contract
when i get layed off this winter, both my dana 60's are going under the knife in a big way.


a note about the seal. the seal i'm discussing isnt really related to the topic. is the inner seal that tends to leak so badly on these axles. the seal down by the carrier. of course it leaks, drizzles gear oil out the tube, soaks the outer steering lower bearing. and of course the oily tube collects dust inside the tube and travels into the carrier

here is the guy who talks about it:

fordmann.com | F-250: Dana 60 Sno-Fighter

 

If you can get the grease to come out the other end... Maybe stick the needle in there and wrap a rag around it so the grease don't come back at you???

I bookmarked that sight, looks like a lot of good info, thanks.

 

yes , work a small piece of rope around the stub axle,or heavy thread, creating a seal , the grease will push it out as it fills the cavity.
as for any info i can provide, its in gratitude.

 

Here is a question:

Disc Brake conversion for the 10.25 sterling axle.

if you get another 2000+ 3/4 ton in the shop; i wonder if you could look at the spacing on the backing plate . i have a hunch the disc-caliper mounting bracket, might fit the older drum brake axle?
i saw a kid do this with the expedition brakes onto a semi float ford 3/4 ton axle, with little problem.

but if the larger brake system will work on the older drum style of axle is an open question at this point.
if it will then we are rocking the 10.25 sterling axle.

i would do this myself, but i don't have ready access to newer trucks, and if i find one i can measure, and someone else is looking too , it makes the outcome that much more certain , if we both see it the same way.

 

St. Nicks 06 is coming back in soon for more goodies, I will check it out. Will look at the proportioning valve also.

 

there is apparently a change somewhere in '05 or so. as the newer brakes are different in some way.
this young man used and claimed he needed to use the 2000-05 expedition brakes for his light duty swap under his (stupid fast) diesel bronco.

he runs a nice little shop that ,from the pics and his build threads does very very nice work.
i havent asked him about this brake issue,as his is different kettle of fish than what im talking about.
but his work is worthy of praise
here is his website:

R&D IDI Performance - Home

his stage name on this forum is racin'ndrummin , or something like that.pretty stuff he does.

anyway whatever the difference was it happened about 05.

i dunno hopw to go about telling the difference other than pestering my ford parts guy who is too busy already.


As for proportion valve mine are MIA as the rear disc caliper gobbles up fluid like no tomorrow. if you keep the drums use fords proportioning valve intact.
i use a 2000 plus master 1 5/16 bore i think.
on the 80's trucks you have to use the 80's hydroboost unit. and pedal. grind down the m/c sleeve where it goes into the hydroboost unit ,2mm to fit into the bore between the mounting studs. waller out the stud holes a bit.
i use a parker hydraulic pump for the ,well, pump part. mg 20030 part number mimics roughly the ford pump.

fords brakes were always a little wimpy or troublesome for me. im trying to fix that forever.

 

I will keep an eye out...I think there is an 04 f350 donor available nearby. Would be worth a look at least.

 

The bearing spacing and hub offset is not the same between the 10.25 and 10.5. What would you use as rotors? Having to drill a new bolt pattern in your rotors would make for expensive brake jobs.
Look on here and a couple diesel forums for write ups on using a SD 10.5
Take hubs to machine shop have them drill 8x6.5 pattern and use E350 rotors. All other brake parts are stock 10.5


http://www.powerstrokenation.com/for...s-8-6-5-a.html

 

Thanks for the heads up bbf385. Personally i'm sticking with drums at this time.

 

The 1410 yoke from Denny's has the pinion nut surface machined 1/8" deeper than the stock 10.25 short yoke. So the pinion nut bottoms out before the yoke/bearings get preload.

Fortunately I had a yoke spacer for a 9" nascar yoke on hand that fit over the 10.25 pinion splines perfectly.

Had my machinist trim the o.d. down to fit inside the yoke, and the thickness trimmed down to .150" to use the spacer as a washer, which leaves full spline engagement on the yoke with proper bearing preload.

The Strange spacers are not hardened so machining was a breeze.

 

thx

i been through this study a couple of times, trying to mix and match. but this one fellow, racinndrummin, did get away using expedition brakes from a newer rig. bolt on mostly he claims.which prompted my curiosity; for the heavier axle.

I finally end up using an AAM 1150 axle to have all the goodies on one stick.
big ring gear, 3 bearing pinion, 4 inch tubes , e brake etc.
but i got lucky to find one as my rigs are cab chassis, and axles are rare with c/c spacings.

the 10.25 is not a valuable enough axle to spend too much money on; there is much better available.

... curious about hub spacing, you mean the face of the hub to welded flange for caliper mount?

rotors ; there are many available from GM dodge that might work. first thought is the gm dually rotor, or the rotor from a 2500 dodge. single. front rotors might work too , or the van rotors....

Fordmann covers this, and did a very clean install . he even gives us his template for a mounting flange. turned out right nicely.


some years ago i did a conversion on a dana 80 using later dodge factory parts. the 80 in my view 'aint worth spending too much time on for high horsepower applications, but will take the weight for sure.

in my view i would like to try a super 70 from a van if i can find one. but c/c spacings dick me a bit there too.
i have a second c/c that needs some love....

 

that was a lucky turn of events....getting the spacer to work