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Many people turn away from these old semi turbos due to the asymmetrical turbine bolt pattern and factory clocking not being favorable for most turbo projects.
It only took about an hour to clock the turbine really close to my liking where 2 bolts lined up, then marked drilled and tapped the other 2.(shiny threaded holes)
If you look close, you can see both asymmetrical patterns.
if/when i get this turbo together on my ranch truck with the sleepy six, i want to use an air intake from a japanese cab over truck with the snorkel above the cab.
or better a plastic tube like the old freightliner cab over trucks with that dopey 90 degree scoop on top.
with a stack on each side; one for air one for exhaust, I will be hillbilly hip.... my gracious!!!
what is astonishing is how easy you make this look.
Are you gonna go right out the bedside with the exhaust!!!
Dump it like the import crowd...
Can you imagine passing someone with their window down at full boost lol? Would give the car a paint job and the driver an insta-tan ...not to mention a heart attack!
Need to have the o2 sensor 12" minimum post turbo for heat purposes and 18" of pipe after the sensor to prevent clean air from pulses coming back in by sensor making it read lean.
Not a fan of elbows post turbo, but will 90* rearward then 90* upward leaving the stack about level with the bedside or cross box.
if/when i get this turbo together on my ranch truck with the sleepy six, i want to use an air intake from a japanese cab over truck with the snorkel above the cab.
or better a plastic tube like the old freightliner cab over trucks with that dopey 90 degree scoop on top.
with a stack on each side; one for air one for exhaust, I will be hillbilly hip.... my gracious!!!
what is astonishing is how easy you make this look.
That's a good idea having the stacks setup that way. I may do that down the road for a symmetrical stack look.
The whole idea of the cross box was to locate the turbo air cleaner in a clean environment during the winter and keep rain/moisture off. Most of us in snowy climates of course know air and snow tend to go toward the center front of the bed, good when not snowing or raining.
My plan is to 90* up from the compressor inlet and install the air filter in the cross box. Take the hole saw to the cross box floor for plenty of flow. Will see next season when the snow falls. May just put a screen up for winter also.
Either location will be easy to add the meth nozzle. I plan on putting the meth kit in the passenger side of the cross box, and possibly the 2nd battery there too.
More power equals more heat, through usually smaller than n.a. pipes. The higher velocity also carries the heat farther downstream. High pressure pre turbine also adds heat. The pressure is released in the down pipe, 12" gives it a chance to expand and cool.
Turbine wheels are sensitive to resistance and turbulence in the down pipe. Most notably during spool. How the exhaust gasses "release" into the down pipe determines efficiency and power. Even with a 5" down pipe, exhaust gasses have to move ALL of the air in that pipe to release.
The consensus post turbine is the bigger and shorter the better, and no down pipe is preferred. Unfortunately, o2 sensors generally do not work well under pressure.
Most to least critical airflow:
Pre compressor (vacuum)
Post turbine (very low pressure)
Post compressor (moderate pressure)
Pre turbine (high pressure)
Note how as the pressure rises, the less critical the plumbing/flow becomes.
complicated. so...
pipe size determines speed and heat, and the impact on the turbine impeller blade, which has an effect on charge air.
high science this.
it seems impossible to have one pipe size/shape for the entire rpm range.
on this heavy truck unlike the sleeper you have a concern for low rpm as well as high power so... trickier y pipe.
complicated. so... More of a craft, 25+ years of camshaft, pipe size and length, turbo wheel sizes, there relationship each other(comp to turbine) turbo a/r in relationship to flange size vs cubic inch, head flow and intended use research!
Also hands on 7 turbo builds with multiple turbos and camshafts. Inline 4,6,
v6 v8 small block and now big block.
pipe size determines speed and heat, and the impact on the turbine impeller blade, which has an effect on charge air.
high science this. Yes, and turbine a/r, and wheel size restriction.
it seems impossible to have one pipe size/shape for the entire rpm range. Correct, much like a camshaft has one peak rpm. The wastegate can help balance things similar to variable cam timing.
on this heavy truck unlike the sleeper you have a concern for low rpm as well as high power so... trickier y pipe. The v8 will rev for hp where the inline 300 6 will not with the stock head.
V8 gives up low rpm tq quickly with camshaft, where the 300 6 did not.
oh i just remembered ...the voodoo science. I let the y pipe reduce to its smallest size, then slipped the 3" pipe over it,
creating a check valve/venturi.
Replies above.^ I have a good idea on things when I start a build, but still have a lot to learn.
believe i would use copper nickel alloy tubing from turbo , to help cool the oil to reduce temps on diaphram.
i would always wonder if that diaphram is going to hold up.
04-16-2017, 07:06 PM
...not to mention a heart attack!