Hello, I am going to be working on a 1947 3/4 ton flathead V8. Typical "ran when parked" 50 years ago.
All I have done so far is put ATF in the cylinders. While doing so, I see the coil is missing.
Before going down to napa and buying a new coil, Can I use any 6 volt coil to just try and get it running?
I have available a 1952 ford flathead v8 and 2 dodge flathead 6 that could borrow a coil from. All 6 volt positive ground.

Seems to me that they should work fine, assuming they are good.
Trying to research and read, the internet starts talking about resistors and condensers, And is where I get lost. I thought I would ask you fine gentlemen what you think.

 

I think that you would be better off to buy a coil that has the specific shape to be mounted on the engine in the correct location. You might as well get started off with the right part.

https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgca...&searchnumber=

 

Yes I have to agree that the correct coil eventually would be the only way to go.
At this point, I put oil in the cylinders about 3 times starting last October. I have not tried to turn it over by hand, have no idea if it is locked up or not. I will try tomorrow to turn the engine over.
If not locked up, I will like to try and start it. See if it has any bad rod bearings. Then if it checks out and will be a runner, warms up with water in it and no cracked block, then spend money for the correct parts.
I just want to use the used coil, to diagnose what condition the motor is in.

I recently read on another forum, where a kid took a newer 302 and converted it to old school points and dropped it in his hot rod.
He had a weak yellow spark, turns out he had the wrong coil and condenser.
Removing the condenser it ran ok, but technically the coil was still not in the correct range and needed to be replaced also.
And that got me wondering if I would have problems using a used coil from a different vehicle.

 

Getting parts from the dodge will have to end soon.

 

You'll prolly be fine enough to just fire it up. I did the same thing. Found an old coil laying in a junk pile and it was enough to get me going. I actually ran it without a condenser even though it called for one for about a year till it burned up. Then bought a 6v coil that didn't require a condenser and has been working great for the last couple years.

 

After reading what I wrote, I kinda got the same idea.
I would just leave off any condenser for now, to get it started.
Then when ready for a new coil will get the right coil and condenser.

 

The coil should have the neg wire to the battery feed and the pos wire going into the distributor. The neg wire should run through a resistor to make it about 3 volts into the coil. If it is stock wiring it will be coming from the resistor under the dash and already be about 3 volts. A full 6 volts is ok for a while but eventually points will burn. Some vehicles start on full voltage and then only go through the resistor once it's running. Some coils have an internal resistor and don't run through the resistor, so pay attention to what coil you are pulling. In the end, for your simple test, any 6 v coil should work. Just make sure it's got the pos side going into distributor. My vote is a 6 volt coil that uses an external resistor and skip it (the resistor) for the test. If this thing runs, and it just may, it will need all the volts you can get it on that first attempt. Then of course you could get a 12 v battery and scrounge a 12 volt coil and spin that baby over. THEN, when all is well, hook it up for real. If it's stuck, believe me they can be really, really stuck and it btakes all you've got to unstick it, but I have had the easy ones once or twice.

 

This truck was the farmers, mechanics truck. Carried around the tools and supplies to work on the rest of the equipment
Everything seems to be here, the farmer removed the head light trim and jail bars and stored them in a box. And the farmer claimed it ran fine, just replaced it with a newer hand me down truck to the mechanic. Just the coil is missing.
Have not found any real rust, other then surface rust. Glass and seat upholstery all are in good shape.
First time I had seen the locking steering column option, I like it.
I did not go over there today, it rained all day and suppose to be dry starting tomorrow.

Also this is my uncles truck, he paid $500 for it and been wanting to get started on it. He is 81 and last summer he pretty much gave up driving because of failing eyesight.
I figure while I am over there working on my 1949 dodge pickup, can help him with the ford.
He needs to have a project going to keep him active.
Other then to keep a old car guy busy, is no real plan for this truck.
Lets hope it is not froze up and go from there.

 

If it was the mechanic's truck it seems like he would have kept it maintained. I don't think that the engine is stuck. It would be nice if you found all of the grille and headlight parts around there. I like the mudflaps to protect the back of the cab. He wanted to take care of this truck. I also like the up swept exhaust pipe so that he didn't start the dry grain field on fire when he drove up to service the farm equipment.

 

I like that it is a tonner AKA one ton 122" wheelbase model with 17" wheels and full floating rear axle. Looks to be in great ( Eastern Washington) shape!

 

All the grille and trim is right inside the garage in a box that has a few other extra parts, extra heater etc...
I have been putting oil in my flathead cylinders and rotating the pistons for a few months. While I rebuilt the carb and fuel pump, I need to install the new starter and ready to start it.
So been putting oil in the 47 ford at the same time, just never tried to turn it over yet.
And it has been sleeping in the covered engine bay, with air cleaner, exhaust and plugs installed.
I think is a good chance it is not froze either.

 

Thanks for that info, I thought it was a 1 ton also, uncle claims it is a 3/4 ton.
I can look at the title and see what it says, but I kinda think you are right with it a 1 ton and the flatbed instead of a box.

 

The difference is in the wheels and axles. Some tonners had an 8' pickup box, so it isn't about the bed. 17" wheels with 5 lugs on 6 7/8" bolt circle is a tonner. To the general truck public, most call them a 3/4 ton.Not sure when the 3/4 ton was discontinued, maybe '41. Then in 48 we got the F3 and F4. Look at the recent post called 'the new fords' for clarification.

 

'42 was the last year Ford produced a 3/4 ton truck, until the '48 F-series. So yes, your '47 is a 1 ton truck.

 

Here is a 3/4 ton over in Benton City:



https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5958990407.html