Hi guys, I've been a memeber for a number of years but haven't posted in probably close to 10. I recently purchased a 95 F150 4x4 5.8L automatic (which makes my old user name no make sense but I couldn't make a new one since the email was already in use hah). it has 160k on the clock and runs really well. I just put rear brakes on it, cut off the ugly conversion truck running boards and fender flares and was hoping to start driving it. But today I rolled it out of the barn and took it down the road and whenever the surface of the road hit a bit of snow and then changed back to asphalt the truck would massively bump steer right. And at first the steering wheel was also straight like it should be, but when it bump steers the steering wheel changes to about 90 degrees turned left being "straight down the road". Hit another change in pavement and it goes back to center after shooting towards the ditch.

i changed the inner tie rod end because it was bad and checked the ball joints and they SEEMED tight. Do you think this could be a ball joint issue or maybe a steering box issue? Maybe tie rod ends, but those seemed tight too.

The truck sat for a few years too before I bought it only being used a couple times a summer for loading hay.

 

First guess would be the steering box.

 

So that is a symptom of a bad steering box? I didn't know the symptoms of a bad box so that is why I asked. Should I get one coming and swap it out? They're not too expensive anymore. I've found them online for around 40 bucks. How bad are they to change?

 

It's hard to say for sure if it's the steering box. Does it steer good until you hit the spot where it jumps. Does it actually take a quarter of a turn(90 degrees) to correct the steering wheel when you hit these spots?

As far as changing the steering box, if you do some mechanic work and have tools and some flare nut wrenches. The box is a bit heavy to raise into place and get the mounting bolts in place.

 

I am mechanically inclined for sure, I was just wondering if it was a much bigger pain then it looks. And to answer your questions, yes that is exactly what it does. When it shoots towards the ditch it takes turning the wheel probably 90 degrees to correct it. When it's on flat either hard packed snow, or concrete, it seems to be fine, even quite responsive to slight steering inputs. It definitely doesn't take a 90 degree turn of the steering wheel to correct like it does when it darts from a little bump.

Ill add that I did loosen the lock nut on top of the box and turn the set screw half a turn to try and tighten the slop to see if that made any difference, and it didn't make a bit of difference in the left slop or the darting when hitting a bump.

 

It shouldn't be that hard for you. If you don't have some flare nut wrenches, I would get some for loosening the hydraulic lines on the steering box so you don't round off the fittings. Just take open end wrenches to figure out the size.

The pitman arm may be hard to remove from the steering box, they make a special tool puller for this but they sometimes won't come off with that. But you can leave the pitman arm on the steering box and remove the steering box no problem. Instead take a pickle fork and separate the drag link from the pitman arm.

You may need a helper to lift the somewhat heavy replacement box back in place while one of you holds the box up to get the bolts in place to hold the box to the frame and also to line up the steering shaft.

 

I appreciate it. I do have flare but wrenches so I'll be good there. I have a puller too, and I'll keep my fingers crossed it pops off.

This most likely isn't upper balljoints though right? I assume not because I've had bad ball joints in vehicles before and even when they were absolutely toast I didn't have steering issues like this. They always just made it wander a bit and then clunked. Toes rods were always just a slow wander I've noticed when they were bad.

 

My guess would be not balljoints, no guarantees.

If you can't remove your pitman arm, just separate the pitman arm from the drag link and leave the pitman arm on the steering box, no problem. You can buy a new pitman arm or take the steering box to a welding shop to have the pitman arm removed like I had to when I went to replace the seals on the steering box an my '94.

 

Ok great. I'll go ahead and just get a pitman arm too if they're not too much. Not worth messing with it if it's only $25 or something like that.

This is what I need, right?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cardone-power-steering-gear-domestic-27-7516/5710952-P?searchTerm=steering+gear+box

 

I can't bring up your link but if you have a puller I would try to remove the pitman arm, yours may come right off. You can always buy a new pitman arm if necessary.

 

If you're replacing the box leave the nut on the end of the threads, wind the puller up tight and smack the side of the pitman arm hard with a 3-4# hammer.
The shock will make it come loose and the nut will keep it from flying off.

I wouldn't beat on a sector shaft like this if I was keeping the box.

 

Not really sure why the link didn't work, but there's a screen shot. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll order it up and pick it up at Advance tomorrow and start putting it on.

I also heard a bad axle joint could cause it too??? But I'm still leaning towards the box as well.

Looking forward to getting it on the road because my car keeps getting stuck in the snow in my driveway and it leaves me having to take my wife's jeep to work or school.

 

Here's a couple picture of it. First one is the day I brought it home. The second is after cutting off the ridiculous running board flare combo. I have some experience in body work and painting so this summer I will be putting on new fenders, fixing the Michigan rust on the bed and putting on a new tailgate before spraying it with a fresh coat of blue.

 

Since the truck is at home and I can't look right now. Do you know if it's a 4 bolt or a 2 bolt box? Or did they come with both and it's impossible to know without looking?

 

I thought these trucks had 3 bolts in the steering box.
But im used to Bricknose and not OBS.