I may be slow, I make many mistakes, and I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed, but I never give up. OK ,My motor is together, heads are re- torqued after a couple heat cycles. Been out for a couple test runs, and It sounds a lot meaner, has noticeably more power. I had to richen up the A/F mixture to accommodate the improved air flow. The only thing that is left to track down is a slight oil leak somewhere at or coming from behind the distributor. I can let it Idle and reve it in the garage for an hour and no drip. It only drips when I take it out and stomp on it real good. Ill find it, its just hard because it only leaks under acceleration. Ill check the valve cover gaskets, and re-torque the intake which should be ok as I did use hi temp RTV instead of the front and rear gaskets. I've already replaced the missing flat rubber gasket at the base of the distributor thinking that was it to no avail. Oh well I will get it, Its just enough to be a pain. Anyway I thought Id update for anyone who may have been following this project. You guys are great, don't ever forget how much you help knuckleheads like me. Thank you .

 

Keep at it Jimmy you'll find the leak and all will be well. Glad the heads are working out

 

Glad Jim the sun comes out and you are ready

 

Good work Jim
You might also check to see if its seeping out of the oil pressure sender threads (if the sender is located in that area). If so, try tightening it a bit more. Don't use thread tape or sealant on the threads though as the sender needs full metal to metal contact for an electrical ground.


Good luck
Bobby

 

Are you sure you are ventilated properly (pcv etc ) higher rpm can create leaks at the weakest point

 

I believe so I'm running a pcv to the port provided for it on the Edelbrock carb, and have a filtered vent on the opposite valve cover. I did move my vacuum advance to the correct vacuum port left side of front, and moved the vac line from the c4 trans to the right vac port on front of carb. I will double check the Ededbrock PDF to be sure, pluss I cleaned out thee pcv valve. Thank you for your input, I always welcome and appreciate advice. Thank you QUESTION, are there different sized PCV for different motor applications.

 

Bobby good point on the oil sender I for one would have never given that a thought.

 

Just sitting here drinking my morning coffee thinking about what you said. There is one sender on the intake manifold that I thought was the coolant temp sender, and I have one sender on the block next to the oil filter which I thought was the oil pressure sender, Ill check. And while I'm at it Ill remove the Teflon tape on the one I just put back on the intake manifold, thanks for that tip, I did not know that.

 

For a non-emission controlled engine, you are likely to have better results using the Full-Time vacuum port (the one you connected the trans line to) for vacuum advance. Listen carefully for pinging tho.

 

Thank you Ross, That's the one I had always used until I read the instructions, Ill put that back where it was B4, that's what I get for reading things written by secretaries. LOL By the way when I when to re torque the intake manifold they were all at 8 pounds, not 18 to 20, of course I am dyslexic. lol I brought them all to 20LBs in 2 steps thinking , hoping, it may stop the trickle of oil but no dice. Next Ill check the distributor base for debris, and if its ok, well Ill just have to pull the intake manifold and redo it. Sometimes it takes more time and effort avoiding the inevitable, than just doing it. As always I appreciate everyone's input very much. Ill update when there is something to say. Oh yeah the increase in power surpasses anything I had expected, I like it.

 

The distributor should have a o-ring a no gasket, Thats how all the sbf I have done, never seen a gasket on base. I have always used sealer on sending units that are pipe thread. Never had problem getting ground.

 

I think sealer on the sender pipe threads is ok. Thinking back, I've only ever seen issues with Teflon tape on sending units (usually a serious over application of Teflon tape).


Bobby

 

I appreciate that Bobby, my HEI has the o ring you mentioned, that I should have replaced it on principle alone. My motor didn't have the base gasket either, I just saw in on summit and was for a 302 so I ordered it grasping at straws. I was wondering how it would effect the meshing on the cam gear anyway, so I think it a good idea to ditch it and replace the o ring. I'm glad you brought that up. I can do that while I'm waiting for the new intake manifold gaskets. Heah who knows I may get lucky with the o ring. Sorry Bobby and lastchance53, Ive mixed things up again, this time with who posted what, but its all good both posts helped me.

 

If you are still having trouble get some UV dye. Then with a black light your leak will really show up well. Use it in total darkness for best results. The leak source will light up like a Christmas tree.

Here is just one source. Most auto parts stores have it too.

 

Thank you Pete, I knew they did similar things in some medical procedures, but didn't know there was anything available for the auto diy'er.
Im taking the day off of working on the truck to get some other chores done, but, I just may do that. It's amazing how much information is in each thread, "FTE ROCKS ON"