Well, It started shifting really hard again from 1st to 2nd. Does this mean the trans needs

a complete rebuild or can some valves or somthing in it be replaced?

also, the overdrive light comes on when i press the button but blinks erratically like its shorting out and sometimes it does not come on at all.

Eiether way, I can feel the shift from into and out of overdrive.

The hard shifting happens regardless if the light is on or off.


Thanks.

 

You're going to need to read the codes to diagnose this. Anything else is guesswork.

 

What transmission?

The 4R70W in mine had a nasty 2-3 shift and it turned out to be a bad accumulator seal. Trans had 170k miles so we had it rebuilt and it is still going strong, much nicer all around. 60k into the rebuild.

 

The trans is an E4OD. I checked the fluid and the level is good.
The trans has had been rebuilt two times already (Just the plate and whatever else they do to fix slippage and hard shifting) since I bought it. I got it at 127,000 miles and it now has 220,000 miles on it.

I have a code reader I just have to find time.

About two years ago I replaced the radiator and all hoses, ignition control module, fixed the computer, Ignition coil, distributor cap, checked spark plugs and wires, set timing, and replaced something on the throttle body. I forget what it was . and when the front brakes were done the rotors were replaced as well as the front wheel bearings.

After that it idled smoother and ran better than when I got it, but it only lasted about a month and then it developed a little rough idle I have been living with because I now have nowhere to work on it, since i had to move.

I have been driving with caution, when I sense its going to change gears i pull my foot off the pedal for a second and then accelerate again.

It does need tie rod bushings, ball joints and, sway bar bushings replaced.

Since it has always easily passed smog every two years and wIth only 220,000 miles on it I think its worth keeping and having the trans fixed once more.

Thanks.

 

The E4OD transmission is not the best tranny that put out there.

If they sit for long periods of time, the front seal will dry out and leak when shifted in reverse, well know problem with RV's that sit over time (Winter).

What Mr. Kovalsky is saying, is you need to have a transmission Shop read the codes in the ECU for the E4OD, this can not really be read with an OBD I code reader, it's a scanner just for transmission, most $2000 scanners can also pull the codes, but only repair shops can afford that.

Best if you can find a Mon & Pop shop that can do the scan, or a private own transmission shop and have it checked out. Don't visit a national chain tranny shop, you'll know the results before you even drive in the parking lot

Other repairs to the van is up to you, if the van is in good shape rust wise, and overall running condition, then 'investing' in repairs can be beneficial over replacing it with another vehicle, that 5.8 if taken care of, has another 100K life left on it, I parked one with over 326K on it and still running.

 

I just got it looked at by the shop that did the trans last time.

Small shop and the owner is really a good guy. He test drove it, hooked up to his reader

Jacked up the rear of the van and did several tests, showed me that it is not shifting into

4th gear, explains why it sounded kind of loud on the freeway Although I dont do

much freeway driving. He Took about 45 minutes working on diagnosing the problem for

free. Quoted me $1600 for the trans rebuild and another $100 to change out the rear

main seal on the engine and if I paid cash he would pay the tax and do everything for

$1700 even. But thats only if the seal is the round one not the split one because they

only do trans work and will not drop the oil pan. He found 2 engine codes. He said one was an EGR code and the other 311.

Questions:

On my 94 Club Wagon, does this have the round rear engine seal or does the oil pan have to come off?

What is a 311 code? I cant find tha code for the E series, only F series trucks. Something about thermactic air system?

How hard is it to change out the EGR valve (if thats what it is?)

No Rust at all, Im in California....
Thanks.

 

One more question, If the EGR valve is bad shoudnt I be getting a CEL?
The CEL does work.

Thanks.

 

I found that a OBD1 code 311 on my engine is :
Secondary air injection system inoperative bank1 during KOER test.

possible causes:

Hose blocked/leaking, air bypass solenoid or air pump, ECM

I guess ill have to find the air pump and trace the hoses, hopefully I find one disconnected or deteriorated.

 

Here's a Link to the codes.

311
AIR System Inoperative/AIR System Inoperative During KOER (Bank No. 1 With Dual HO2S)

Codes are the same between E & F series, or anything running EEC-IV.

Rear main seal on the '94 5.8 is one piece, and pan does not need to be dropped. But, the transmission needs to be removed, and flex plate.

What reason did the shop give for not shifting into 4th gear, or the torque converter not locking up??

Could it be a wiring issue?? Does the button on the end of the shiftier light up?

This era of engine, EEC-IV system will not turn the CEL light on for a problem with the EGR/smog system. Problem with the O2 sensor will turn the CEL on.

Getting into the EGR replacement, first thing it to make sure the EGR valve is clean and working, there are many posts on here for checking/cleaning the EGR valve. That's the first step.

Also, if you get any parts for the EGR, make sure you get the California parts, they are different from the rest of the world.

A problem with this era of van, is the ECU having corroded capacitors on the board, inside the ECU. Both age and time breaks down the circuit board.

A lot of time can be save and parts saved if you want to check the ECU first, by removing the ECU, opening up the case, and inspecting the circuit board, any "green" stuff around the base of the capacitor is a sign of problems.

Best to replace the ECU with a re-man unit, they cost around $100 from major auto parts stores, and in a lot of cases, solved many problems all at once with a re-man ECU. JUST a thought, and in my opinion one of the First things to check before guesting at what's wrong and replacing parts when your starting to have multiple problems on this era vehicle.

 

He did not give a reason for not shifting into 4th, he just said it may be the torque converter.
The switch on the shifter works but it is probably shorting out because sometimes it comes on but flashes erratically like its shorting and sometimes it does not come on at all but the switch does work. Either way, the hard shifting does not change.

The van has always passed smog easily, I will be depressed if I have to mess with smog equipment

I did install a new capacitor on the ECU about 2 years ago. There were 3 that could go bad according to a youtube video I found, but only one of mine was bad so I only changed out one. After that (and a new ICM) the Van idled and ran better than when I got it.
I am going to check the other two but this is my only mode of transportation.

If I can get a ECU for only $100 it might be worth it to give it a try.

Thanks.

 

It's not the torque converter. The torque converter has nothing to do with shifting to fourth gear.

The shorting wires to the OD switch can easily be the cause of not shifting to fourth gear.

 

I misstyped, lol. He said the torque converter could be why its shifting hard.
I am thinking about pulling the **** off, (its already almost off anyway) cutting the wires and taping them off. I dont tow and always drive in overdrive.
Bad idea? Could that cause other problems?

Thanks.

 

I just did A test by resetting the computer, I pulled the neg. cable, turned on headlights,

let it sit for 30 minutes, Took it for A 20 minute test drive, on streets, freeway (damn

bumper to bumper traffic in the afternoon on a Sunday in So Cal )

It did not shift hard at all, Took it up to 80 MPH, (When traffic cleared)

Had a hard time telling if it was shifting from 3rd to 4th. No Tach.

Does this indicate the ECU is the culprit?
Or do I need to drive it some more?

Thanks.

 

It indicates that you cleared the codes and that the problem hasn't reoccurred yet. That's all it proves.

Pulling the **** off and cutting the wires won't fix the shorting wires problem you have. That's at the other end of the shift handle, inside the column. If you take the plastic cover off of the column you can see the wires and fix the damaged areas.

 

Ok, I have to actually fix the problem instead of looking for quick fixes,
I was hoping the short was at the switch.

Thanks.