Is my motor finally toast?
#1
Is my motor finally toast?
Good afternoon everyone!
Working on my 1986 Bronco 5.0 FI.
So, my Bronco has been out of commission for some time now. I couldn't figure out why it hasn't been running, but I went out to do a compression test today and thought I'd crank it real quick for giggles. Oddly, it fired up. However, it was billowing black smoke like a diesel and it was barely running. I pulled the dipstick to check the oil and practically got high off the cloud of gasoline vapor that came out.
The crankcase is wayyy too full, and is filled with fuel. The exhaust was smoking like a banshee, and now it's not running again. At least I know why.
I assume I have a stuck pouring injector, or a blown fuel regulator. I pulled the vacuum line from the accessible regulator and it seemed dry.
What do you guys think? In any case, with how full the crankcase is, I'm assuming I have a cracked block/destroyed valve seal or something of that nature. I've known for years that the valve seals were on their last legs because it's smoked a little on startup after sitting for a few days the whole time I've owned it.
What do you guys think? How do I check the injectors, seeing that the passenger side is virtually inaccessible?
Thanks in advance!
/Quinn
Working on my 1986 Bronco 5.0 FI.
So, my Bronco has been out of commission for some time now. I couldn't figure out why it hasn't been running, but I went out to do a compression test today and thought I'd crank it real quick for giggles. Oddly, it fired up. However, it was billowing black smoke like a diesel and it was barely running. I pulled the dipstick to check the oil and practically got high off the cloud of gasoline vapor that came out.
The crankcase is wayyy too full, and is filled with fuel. The exhaust was smoking like a banshee, and now it's not running again. At least I know why.
I assume I have a stuck pouring injector, or a blown fuel regulator. I pulled the vacuum line from the accessible regulator and it seemed dry.
What do you guys think? In any case, with how full the crankcase is, I'm assuming I have a cracked block/destroyed valve seal or something of that nature. I've known for years that the valve seals were on their last legs because it's smoked a little on startup after sitting for a few days the whole time I've owned it.
What do you guys think? How do I check the injectors, seeing that the passenger side is virtually inaccessible?
Thanks in advance!
/Quinn
#2
Hmm well I don't know how to go about checking the injectors without taking off the upper intake manifold, then using a noid light or something.
However, I'd get a compression tester and try that first before checking the injectors. Technically, the compression test is best done with a warm engine, but you'll be fine doing it cold. Just unplug your fuel pump relay and crank the motor over when checking for compression on each cylinder.
If all the cylinders are relatively close to one another, I'd then go looking at your injection system. If one or several cylinders compression numbers are significantly lower, I'd be looking at a used block.
These 5.0 and 5.8 motors are pretty exceptional engines and can take a bit of use so finding a good used one shouldn't be too difficult if yours is toast. Mine had 233k when I pulled it for my diesel swap and it was running perfectly. (I did do a bit of work to it here and there, but it never gave me any trouble, I just liked tinkering)
However, I'd get a compression tester and try that first before checking the injectors. Technically, the compression test is best done with a warm engine, but you'll be fine doing it cold. Just unplug your fuel pump relay and crank the motor over when checking for compression on each cylinder.
If all the cylinders are relatively close to one another, I'd then go looking at your injection system. If one or several cylinders compression numbers are significantly lower, I'd be looking at a used block.
These 5.0 and 5.8 motors are pretty exceptional engines and can take a bit of use so finding a good used one shouldn't be too difficult if yours is toast. Mine had 233k when I pulled it for my diesel swap and it was running perfectly. (I did do a bit of work to it here and there, but it never gave me any trouble, I just liked tinkering)
#3
If the crankcase is over full and smells of gasoline, it will not lubricate the main and rod bearings and will cause damage. Before trying to run or crank the engine, I would drop the oil and filter and put in good oil. This will prevent any damage. You can use the started solenoid with a remote start switch to crank the engine and get a compression check. This will not energize the ignition/fuel circuits and only crank the engine.
Then you need to figure out how all of the fuel got into the crankcase before you fill it up again with fuel.
Then you need to figure out how all of the fuel got into the crankcase before you fill it up again with fuel.
#4
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