Starting Issue
#32
Nice catch on the choke Brian.
OP, the plugged nipple on the front of the carb is supposed to go to a PCV valve. And I would introduce the PCV system to this engine. The vacuum line at the front of the carb is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the Dizzy (distributor). Now it's trailing back to prolly a vacuum tube going to an A/T. Which would be wrong and the A/T won't shift normal. So now there prolly isn't any vacuum supply going to the Dizzy's vacuum advance. Which it needs. The plugged nipple on the side of the carb is for a bowl vent for later model emissions vehicles. I personally would put a better looking plug on it. The hose next to the bowl vent plug is to supply filtered air to the electric choke. Eddy electric chokes need 12V to run to them. And I wouldn't use the "S" terminal on the solenoid. That only has power to it when the key is in the "S"tart position. Find another 12V supply wire that has power when the ignition key is in the "run" position. 2X on a complete tune up.
Now once you get the choke squared away, a vacuum hose to the Dizzy, the complete tune up, and a working PCV system, then adjust the carb correctly. PO prolly adjusted or jetted the thing too rich to make up for no choke. It may need different metering rods and jets. 351ClevelandC4 is our resident "Man About Town" when it comes to Eddy carbs.
OP, the plugged nipple on the front of the carb is supposed to go to a PCV valve. And I would introduce the PCV system to this engine. The vacuum line at the front of the carb is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the Dizzy (distributor). Now it's trailing back to prolly a vacuum tube going to an A/T. Which would be wrong and the A/T won't shift normal. So now there prolly isn't any vacuum supply going to the Dizzy's vacuum advance. Which it needs. The plugged nipple on the side of the carb is for a bowl vent for later model emissions vehicles. I personally would put a better looking plug on it. The hose next to the bowl vent plug is to supply filtered air to the electric choke. Eddy electric chokes need 12V to run to them. And I wouldn't use the "S" terminal on the solenoid. That only has power to it when the key is in the "S"tart position. Find another 12V supply wire that has power when the ignition key is in the "run" position. 2X on a complete tune up.
Now once you get the choke squared away, a vacuum hose to the Dizzy, the complete tune up, and a working PCV system, then adjust the carb correctly. PO prolly adjusted or jetted the thing too rich to make up for no choke. It may need different metering rods and jets. 351ClevelandC4 is our resident "Man About Town" when it comes to Eddy carbs.
#34
Nice catch on the choke Brian.
OP, the plugged nipple on the front of the carb is supposed to go to a PCV valve. And I would introduce the PCV system to this engine. The vacuum line at the front of the carb is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the Dizzy (distributor). Now it's trailing back to prolly a vacuum tube going to an A/T. Which would be wrong and the A/T won't shift normal. So now there prolly isn't any vacuum supply going to the Dizzy's vacuum advance. Which it needs. The plugged nipple on the side of the carb is for a bowl vent for later model emissions vehicles. I personally would put a better looking plug on it. The hose next to the bowl vent plug is to supply filtered air to the electric choke. Eddy electric chokes need 12V to run to them. And I wouldn't use the "S" terminal on the solenoid. That only has power to it when the key is in the "S"tart position. Find another 12V supply wire that has power when the ignition key is in the "run" position. 2X on a complete tune up.
Now once you get the choke squared away, a vacuum hose to the Dizzy, the complete tune up, and a working PCV system, then adjust the carb correctly. PO prolly adjusted or jetted the thing too rich to make up for no choke. It may need different metering rods and jets. 351ClevelandC4 is our resident "Man About Town" when it comes to Eddy carbs.
OP, the plugged nipple on the front of the carb is supposed to go to a PCV valve. And I would introduce the PCV system to this engine. The vacuum line at the front of the carb is supposed to go to the vacuum advance on the Dizzy (distributor). Now it's trailing back to prolly a vacuum tube going to an A/T. Which would be wrong and the A/T won't shift normal. So now there prolly isn't any vacuum supply going to the Dizzy's vacuum advance. Which it needs. The plugged nipple on the side of the carb is for a bowl vent for later model emissions vehicles. I personally would put a better looking plug on it. The hose next to the bowl vent plug is to supply filtered air to the electric choke. Eddy electric chokes need 12V to run to them. And I wouldn't use the "S" terminal on the solenoid. That only has power to it when the key is in the "S"tart position. Find another 12V supply wire that has power when the ignition key is in the "run" position. 2X on a complete tune up.
Now once you get the choke squared away, a vacuum hose to the Dizzy, the complete tune up, and a working PCV system, then adjust the carb correctly. PO prolly adjusted or jetted the thing too rich to make up for no choke. It may need different metering rods and jets. 351ClevelandC4 is our resident "Man About Town" when it comes to Eddy carbs.
#35
I would put a oil cap with a PCV and grommet in the left valve cover. Short thick wall hose meant to carry gas and oil to the carb. Then make sure the cap in the right side valve cover is a clean breathable type. Or run a hose from the air cleaner to a cap,grommet, and elbow in that right side valve cover.
#36
So did this message even show up the first time or no??
#37
IMHO, yes I do. That carb might be dialed in internally with a PCV system working in mind. And this way you are certain the crankcase fumes and pressure is vented. That pressure can cause oil leaks. Which is why Ford used "downdraft tubes" before the invention of the PCV systems.
I would put a oil cap with a PCV and grommet in the left valve cover. Short thick wall hose meant to carry gas and oil to the carb. Then make sure the cap in the right side valve cover is a clean breathable type. Or run a hose from the air cleaner to a cap,grommet, and elbow in that right side valve cover.
I would put a oil cap with a PCV and grommet in the left valve cover. Short thick wall hose meant to carry gas and oil to the carb. Then make sure the cap in the right side valve cover is a clean breathable type. Or run a hose from the air cleaner to a cap,grommet, and elbow in that right side valve cover.
#38
#39
Looks like a hack mechanic owned it. A couple bucks will buy a whole assortment of vacuum plugs, the hose and bolt is a gomer fix, as is tying the choke open. I wouldn't just leave that big vent tube open, maybe a length of hose with a little filter element in the end. And you definitely need a pcv system, unless you are just running the old road draft tube and venting the crankcase into the atmosphere.
I'm not sure on the AFB but on a Holley 12 volt choke, they open way too fast and also start opening as soon as you begin cranking. I always use the S terminal and pretty sure it doesn't get power until the alternator is charging. Seems like it's around 9 volts, been a while since I messed with one.
I'm not sure on the AFB but on a Holley 12 volt choke, they open way too fast and also start opening as soon as you begin cranking. I always use the S terminal and pretty sure it doesn't get power until the alternator is charging. Seems like it's around 9 volts, been a while since I messed with one.
#40
Looks like a hack mechanic owned it. A couple bucks will buy a whole assortment of vacuum plugs, the hose and bolt is a gomer fix, as is tying the choke open. I wouldn't just leave that big vent tube open, maybe a length of hose with a little filter element in the end. And you definitely need a pcv system, unless you are just running the old road draft tube and venting the crankcase into the atmosphere.
I'm not sure on the AFB but on a Holley 12 volt choke, they open way too fast and also start opening as soon as you begin cranking. I always use the S terminal and pretty sure it doesn't get power until the alternator is charging. Seems like it's around 9 volts, been a while since I messed with one.
I'm not sure on the AFB but on a Holley 12 volt choke, they open way too fast and also start opening as soon as you begin cranking. I always use the S terminal and pretty sure it doesn't get power until the alternator is charging. Seems like it's around 9 volts, been a while since I messed with one.
#42
#43
#44
Hwklein88 IIRC this is where your PCV valve will go.
Normally they have a right angle fitting. Your oil filler cap will need to be replaced with a cap that will accept a grommet and your air cleaner may already have a knock out for a breather in its base.
I hope this helps
Normally they have a right angle fitting. Your oil filler cap will need to be replaced with a cap that will accept a grommet and your air cleaner may already have a knock out for a breather in its base.
I hope this helps
So the hose that is currently running to the passenger intake where should i run that hose to? And no my air cleaner doesn't have a knock out