Discontinued hub problems
#1
Discontinued hub problems
I have a 1989 F350 4x4 with the Dana 60 monobeam front axle. Recently I heard a grinding noise in the front right wheel. I identified it as the brake caliper grinding inside the wheel, and found that the cause of the extra play in the wheel was that all 8 studs were free spinning in the hub. I limped it a mile home to the driveway and once I had a day off work, spent the entire day with an extractor kit and my drill removing the old lug nuts and studs so that I could get the tire off. I was hoping that the studs were bad, but once I tried to anchor brand new OEM studs in the hubs I confirmed that the hubs were actually throated out, for lack of a better term, so the knurling on the studs had no solid grip. I then made the unfortunate discovery that the wheel hubs (centric part number 124 65.002) were discontinued. I have ordered them from dealers and wholesalers several times, only to have the dealers come back to me and say that their inventory systems were incorrect, and they cannot get the part (complete with refund and apology of course). I don't have the time to chase them around scrap yards all over NC, and centric estimates they won't have more until March.
My solution to get the truck back on the road is to step up the size of the knurling on my studs and get everything else as close as possible on the studs. So my question is, has anyone done a similar fix before? How well did it work and what measurements were most important to match the studs/bolts? Each of the holes in my hub seem to be at slightly different levels of wear, so can I utilize JB weld or some similar product? I'm using Dorman's database and have a few likely candidates but I want a sanity check from some more experienced folks in this area if they're available.
Thanks to all who frequent these forums, I'm constantly picking up really solid info here
My solution to get the truck back on the road is to step up the size of the knurling on my studs and get everything else as close as possible on the studs. So my question is, has anyone done a similar fix before? How well did it work and what measurements were most important to match the studs/bolts? Each of the holes in my hub seem to be at slightly different levels of wear, so can I utilize JB weld or some similar product? I'm using Dorman's database and have a few likely candidates but I want a sanity check from some more experienced folks in this area if they're available.
Thanks to all who frequent these forums, I'm constantly picking up really solid info here
#2
Join Date: Mar 2005
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#3
I have a 1989 F350 4x4 with the Dana 60 monobeam front axle. Recently I heard a grinding noise in the front right wheel. I identified it as the brake caliper grinding inside the wheel, and found that the cause of the extra play in the wheel was that all 8 studs were free spinning in the hub.
I limped it a mile home to the driveway and once I had a day off work, spent the entire day with an extractor kit and my drill removing the old lug nuts and studs so that I could get the tire off. I was hoping that the studs were bad, but once I tried to anchor brand new OEM studs in the hubs I confirmed that the hubs were actually throated out, for lack of a better term, so the knurling on the studs had no solid grip.
I then made the unfortunate discovery that the wheel hubs (centric part number 124 65.002) were discontinued.
I limped it a mile home to the driveway and once I had a day off work, spent the entire day with an extractor kit and my drill removing the old lug nuts and studs so that I could get the tire off. I was hoping that the studs were bad, but once I tried to anchor brand new OEM studs in the hubs I confirmed that the hubs were actually throated out, for lack of a better term, so the knurling on the studs had no solid grip.
I then made the unfortunate discovery that the wheel hubs (centric part number 124 65.002) were discontinued.
Unlike FoMoCo, you can buy the rotors only from auto parts stores.
When the studs are pressed out of hubs to install auto parts store rotors, new studs must be installed, because once studs are removed, their serrations flatten out.
#4
I didn't realize the hubs from dana 50 and 60 were compatible. Found a 4x4 specialty retailer online that has used ones in stock... for $250. That's twice the price of the centric brand new. I think that finding a local welder is a better option, and if they come unmoored again I'll just do the salvage yard hunt. In the mean time, I've attached a couple pictures of the makeshift press I'm using to get the new rotor on the worn hub with new studs. I've not got any welding experience, so should I be asking to have the heads tacked in place on the back side, or the shank where it protrudes on the outside?
Used the large clamp to press the heads without torquing
#5
Try these guys. They are awesome. http://www.ashevillepowertrain.com/ Product Lines
They are in Buncombe county just off of I26/240
They are in Buncombe county just off of I26/240
#6
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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Cotton's Auto Sales in Lexington N.C. has 2 front hubs listed on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
336-787-5693
stock # AA0792
336-787-5693
stock # AA0792
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