Backup cam in 3rd brake light with dual monitor rearview mirror
#31
Rearview safety seems to be an American company. I called before I bought it with some general questions and even with no specific model in mind, the tech girl I talked to knew her crap. I have been working on vehicles and building engines for over 20 years, so I really did not have an issue installing this. Granted it was only one phone call, but I had a good experience. I knew it was going to take a while, but not be too hard. Though you have to download the instructions. Everything is labeled. Based on what she told me, what I wanted the end result to be, and my knowledge, I cut the mirror wires rather than try to get it unplugged.
#32
Cool.
I don't have any wires to cut. Instead, I have a whole bunch of wires to add, as my rear view mirror is without power or signal. It's just bare bones hanging there. I'll have to run all wires, but I planned to drop the headliner anyway to fix a cloth separation and to finally run the wiring harness for my lighted sun visors... a harness I bought brand new from Ford 15 years ago and have yet to install. Heck, the sun visors broke apart before I ever finished installing them.
I noticed that the shape of the mirror, and the four button positions, is virtually identical to my OEM GMC rear view mirror, only instead of the three buttons on the right controlling the screens and brightness, they control OnStar. But the mirror is otherwise identically shaped.
Thanks again for answering all my questions. Now I'm a bit embarrassed for not calling the company directly myself, especially since you say they are domestically based! Still, hearing from you added a level of user experience and authenticity that can't be replicated by someone who is selling it. I appreciate you taking the time.
I don't have any wires to cut. Instead, I have a whole bunch of wires to add, as my rear view mirror is without power or signal. It's just bare bones hanging there. I'll have to run all wires, but I planned to drop the headliner anyway to fix a cloth separation and to finally run the wiring harness for my lighted sun visors... a harness I bought brand new from Ford 15 years ago and have yet to install. Heck, the sun visors broke apart before I ever finished installing them.
I noticed that the shape of the mirror, and the four button positions, is virtually identical to my OEM GMC rear view mirror, only instead of the three buttons on the right controlling the screens and brightness, they control OnStar. But the mirror is otherwise identically shaped.
Thanks again for answering all my questions. Now I'm a bit embarrassed for not calling the company directly myself, especially since you say they are domestically based! Still, hearing from you added a level of user experience and authenticity that can't be replicated by someone who is selling it. I appreciate you taking the time.
#34
I have a platinum tailgate unknown year. I would like to hook up my camera to my radio I have. I dont know what type of connector it was because it was damaged when bought. The wires from the camera are white with a purple tracer, sold black, brown with a purple tracer, white with a green tracer, and a purple with a gray tracer.
#35
I have a platinum tailgate unknown year. I would like to hook up my camera to my radio I have. I dont know what type of connector it was because it was damaged when bought. The wires from the camera are white with a purple tracer, sold black, brown with a purple tracer, white with a green tracer, and a purple with a gray tracer.
12V positive
Ground (likely the solid black)
Video negative
Video positive
You can use a connector like in the pic below, from eBay of course, or splice it.
#36
I can't tell you what colors are what, Google should find you a wiring diagram. But I can tell you the four wires you need to worry about:
12V positive
Ground (likely the solid black)
Video negative
Video positive
You can use a connector like in the pic below, from eBay of course, or splice it.
12V positive
Ground (likely the solid black)
Video negative
Video positive
You can use a connector like in the pic below, from eBay of course, or splice it.
#38
#39
Not really. It's all the same stuff. It's aluminum foil with a peel off back. Make sure you go over the. Exposed screw terminals with eletape before you wrap it. That way you don't create a current pathway. Though I have never used it. Real ductwork tape is foil with adhesive. I like, and have never had problems with, the foil tape that uses the peel off backing.
#40
Just an update. My mirror decided to glitch on the way to work and cycle through the displays and would not turn off. Since I was driving at night the display was kinda blinding me. I had to pull over and unplug it from under the headliner. When I got to the parking lot at work I fired an email to rearview safety with a description of the problem an a request to call me. At 10:05 I got a call from them and they sent me another mirror ups 2 day shipping. Swapped it out and sent the other one back. Super nice, fast, concerned and courteous. If only all problems were handled that well.
I have had no issues since then.
I have had no issues since then.
#41
#42
Why not use ready made rca cables w RCA connectors ? They sell them with various lines, including ones for power and/or audio.
How hard is it to run a wire from the rear license plate to the front ? I understand it will go thru the frame where the factory wiring runs. Just crawl under and connect w zip ties?
How hard is it to run a wire from the rear license plate to the front ? I understand it will go thru the frame where the factory wiring runs. Just crawl under and connect w zip ties?
#43
Why not use ready made rca cables w RCA connectors ? They sell them with various lines, including ones for power and/or audio.
How hard is it to run a wire from the rear license plate to the front ? I understand it will go thru the frame where the factory wiring runs. Just crawl under and connect w zip ties?
How hard is it to run a wire from the rear license plate to the front ? I understand it will go thru the frame where the factory wiring runs. Just crawl under and connect w zip ties?
Not sure to whom these questions are directed, but most "ready made " RCA cables I have seen have RCA plugs on both ends. I don't think the Ford OEM tailgate camera has an RCA port on the back of the Ford badge, so already, one of the plugs of the "ready made" RCA cable would need to be cut to make the splice.
If the ready made cable has to be cut and spliced anyway, one might as well consider getting shielded cabling for the video signal, because there are only two frame rails... one exposes the video cable to elevated temperatures due to the exhaust system, and the other exposes the video cable to power inductance in long parallel runs due to the 12 volt trailer connector power supply rated for 30 amps.
Aluminum tape both reflects heat, and shields EMF and power inductance, if applied continuously and terminated correctly. The self adhesive aluminum HVAC tape is not a bad idea. I've done it several times over the years, especially when Harbor Freight used to sell self adhesive aluminum foil tape with substantial mil thickness at a bargain price for a three roll package. Sadly, they wised up and no longer offer that deal.
#44
Not sure to whom these questions are directed, but most "ready made " RCA cables I have seen have RCA plugs on both ends. I don't think the Ford OEM tailgate camera has an RCA port on the back of the Ford badge, so already, one of the plugs of the "ready made" RCA cable would need to be cut to make the splice.
If the ready made cable has to be cut and spliced anyway, one might as well consider getting shielded cabling for the video signal, because there are only two frame rails... one exposes the video cable to elevated temperatures due to the exhaust system, and the other exposes the video cable to power inductance in long parallel runs due to the 12 volt trailer connector supply.
Aluminum tape both reflects heat, and shields EMF and power inductance, if applied continuously and terminated correctly. The self adhesive aluminum HVAC tape is not a bad idea. I've done it several times over the years, especially when Harbor Freight used to sell self adhesive aluminum foil tape with substantial mil thickness at a bargain price for a three roll package. Sadly, they wised up and no longer offer that deal.
If the ready made cable has to be cut and spliced anyway, one might as well consider getting shielded cabling for the video signal, because there are only two frame rails... one exposes the video cable to elevated temperatures due to the exhaust system, and the other exposes the video cable to power inductance in long parallel runs due to the 12 volt trailer connector supply.
Aluminum tape both reflects heat, and shields EMF and power inductance, if applied continuously and terminated correctly. The self adhesive aluminum HVAC tape is not a bad idea. I've done it several times over the years, especially when Harbor Freight used to sell self adhesive aluminum foil tape with substantial mil thickness at a bargain price for a three roll package. Sadly, they wised up and no longer offer that deal.
The shielding is a good point. On my previous truck I had a prefect picture when not moving or slow moving. Once I got to driving faster the monitor would show some horizontal lines. Probably because I had long runs of power and video all the way to the front from the rear license plate.
#45
After helping a bud install an oem backup camera in his tailgate this weekend, I might look hard at a license plate cam if I ever have to do that again. The camera is in the tailgate handle. That's the deceptive part. That's the oh, this is easy, "honey put the steaks on, I'll be done in a min" part. Running the wires through the tailgate, around the old man ladder and out the factory location; that's the standard daily task in Dante's seventh circle of Hell. I'd forgive him for sleeping with my wife before I would forgive him if he asked me to do that again.
His image went to his aftermarket head unit. Running the wire, after foil tape insulation/ shielding, was simple. The latch cam was simple. If only we had had to go to the license plate.
All bitching aside. I think the view from the latch is superior for hooking up trailers. The lower angle of the plate cam let's you see people and animals better. Watching another friend backup to his boat, I can't really say I would want a plate cam IF the main purpose (like me) is to aid in hooking up.
His image went to his aftermarket head unit. Running the wire, after foil tape insulation/ shielding, was simple. The latch cam was simple. If only we had had to go to the license plate.
All bitching aside. I think the view from the latch is superior for hooking up trailers. The lower angle of the plate cam let's you see people and animals better. Watching another friend backup to his boat, I can't really say I would want a plate cam IF the main purpose (like me) is to aid in hooking up.