First off I do not want to start a tow police thread. That being said I was doing some deeper research on current and past Super Duty tow capacities mostly because I am sizing a toy hauler for the 17' F-350 SRW Super Duty I have on order (in signature).

For the last 10+ years at least I have been reading forums where people constantly say if you plan to tow a triple axle toy hauler in the 40'+ range, 18k-21k lbs, 3000-3500 lbs pin weight you NEED a DRW tow rig regardless of make. Looking at the current tow capacity of the rig I ordered when compared to past F-350 DRW rigs I came up with the following:

My rig on order:

2017 F-350 SRW Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed
5th wheel max: 20,400 lbs
GCVW: 28,700 lbs

Past F-350 DRW rigs:

2011 F-350 DRW Crew Cab 4x4
5th wheel max: 21,500 lbs
GCVW: 30,000 lbs

2010 F-350 DRW Crew Cab 4x4
5th wheel max: 17,700 lbs
GCVW: 28,700 lbs

2004 F-350 DRW Crew Cab 4x4
5th wheel max: 12,400 lbs
GCVW: 20,000 lbs

Now the toy hauler I have been looking at for a few years now are in the 20k-21k range fully loaded (IE: Weekend Warrior 4250w, Cyclone 4250, etc). If you compare those toy haulers I have been looking at for some time now and the DRW rigs everyone has been saying is required it seems like the 17' SuperDuty beats most older DRW rigs which are doing this task and come very close to a 2011 DRW. For example I know a bunch of people who buy a used 2010 F-350 DRW and slap on the 21k toy hauler without thinking twice and no one questions it, when someone wants to do this with a 17' F-350 properly equipped SRW it seems people get touchy yet the numbers support it?

So I suppose what I am asking is does the 17' Super Duty really beat the 2010 and come close to the 11' F-350 DRW towing capability that would result in me being able to tow the heavy toy hauler I am looking at comfortably?

 

Number wise you are correct. The srw will do fine with towing that 5th wheel. But a drw would be more stable. Nothing really major changes between the srw and drw power/drive wise (beefier axles). The 450 drw has bigger brakes but I believe the 350 srw and drw are the same brakes. At that weight point, it really is more a question of stability for the rig. A lot of people do fine with the srw towing similar setups and I'm sure this new frame will help with stability. But a drw will always be more stable.

Overall I wouldn't sweat your decision. A lot of people pull way over their legal numbers and you should still be under.

 

If you've pulled a larger 5vr with the single wheel and then switched to a drw, you would understand the difference. They act like huge sails and I would get blown all across the road with a decent crosswind. Also, you have the security of two extra wheels. With the increased pin weight, the likely hood of a blow out due to heat increase. I'm not a safety police type of person but am practical. When I had a SRW, towing was often white knuckle and stressful. When I switched to the drw I felt I could relax and enjoy the trip if that makes sense. There would be no way I would've ordered what you did with the plans you have. If I was wanting to pull the weight like your talking for hauling a tractor or flatbed, I wouldn't be as cautious due to the effects the wind would have

Brett

 

X2

I have owned a lot of trucks and pulled a lot of trailers, mostly conventional, but hands down in any situation a dually makes life easier.

I like duallies without a trailer on road trips, they make driving less of a chore.

The RV industry as a whole is flawed. They are "self regulated" and a lot of products get sold that are cheaply and poorly produced. This SOP seems to get passed down the line to sales also as they will tell a person anything to make a sale.

I will be pulling several trailers with my truck. A couple of smaller enclosed cargo trailers, an 18,000# flatbed equipment trailer, and a 28' long 9' wide center console boat with a total weight of 10-11K. I went back to a dual rear wheel truck to make these tasks less tedious.

When I bought the trailer for the boat, the guy at the marina wanted to "argue" the fact I could save money buy buying a 2 axle trailer as opposed to a 3 axle. But, if you loose a tire in this configuration, you typically will loose 2, or shear an axle hub. So for the few extra bucks, it's worth the piece of mind.

Too many people are counting on numbers/capacities etc. with such situations. When you look at TT or 5rs, ask about axle capacities also. Many times the axles are over capacity the day you pick it up. Or, at the least the tires are over capacity. Once provisions and other "stuff" is added, your driving down the road with a rig that is bound to fail.

Also every gas and many diesel motorhome on the market today leaves the factory with one or both axles over or at capacity. Once loaded, they are well over.

 

Just like everyone else is saying on paper you can do it no problem and in real live driving it would feel just fine. When there's a crosswind sure it will be a little white nuckled and you would think this is what towing a big toy hauler is like I was one of those guys I tow a 2014 cyclone 4000 elite 44ft with my 2011 350 drw and it tows it great. Guys say "like it's not even there lol" trust me it's there in take off and braking performance but handling it really is like it's not there.
My friend has a 2014 f 350 cclb 4x4 diesel and bought a jayco 5th wheel 38ft he had never driven with that big a trailer so I said I would go with him to get it 2hrs away we used my truck because his truck was getting the hitch installed. I let him drive to get use to it he was shocked at how easy it was to tow. A month later he had to bring the trailer back for warranty work he came back and said the was scary as hell there's a section of 4 line Hwy about 40 miles long that follows Huron lake and there's always lots of cross wind there. He used my truck to go get the trailer after work was done said he could not feel cross wind and the next truck he gets is definitely going to be a dually

 

Mine is 44.5' long and weighs over 20k with the garage loaded and water full. I've towed it and the one I had before it that was similar in size over 20k miles in the last 5 years. I've been as far north as Nova Scotia, south to FL, and west as far as WI. Lots of places in between too. I've been in every supposed "white knuckle" inducing situation. Torrential rain, high winds, heavy semi traffic all around, mountainous terrain, etc. I've never once felt I needed more than my 2012 SRW 350. I'm under on all my current ratings except GCWR. So, when we decided to go for a 2017, I ordered almost the same thing except this one will be a CC instead of a SC. Now we'll be under GCWR as well. However, numbers never really concerned me. The package towed like an arrow. VERY stable. So, unless I had something way over a SRW's ratings like a DRV Full House, I'd stay SRW. That said, some floor plans and manufacturers are heavier than others. I specifically chose my brand due to lower pin weights due to axle placement. My exact same floor plan when built by other manufacturers has a pin of 1k or so more. So, if you want to stay SRW and within numbers, it's certainly doable. Your options won't be as plentiful as with a DRW but there are plenty to choose from. Check out XLR's Thunderbolt line while shopping. I've been very happy with mine...

 

I have experience towing a Cyclone 3950 that is full with an SRW F-350. Agree with all the comments, and will add I always run good Michelin Tires, and always put the new tires on the rear a few weeks before the big trip. If you are going far it sure does wear the tires quite fast. Never have had a blowout, and regularly go 1,000+ miles, up/down passes, and occasionally in bad weather.

I admit, the driving had my complete attention and a good nights sleep once I arrived was required. My list of stress pulling a big trailer:

1. Jerks not respecting my following distance.
2. Can I make it to the next fuel station that does not require mountain-goat-jockeying to fill up my tanks. MPG was 4-8.
3. Trailer brakes failing, happened once, had a shop install my hitch and plug in the bed, the connections underneath came undone. The trailer brakes are a must!

Never stopped at a weigh station, although the lights said to pull in. The agriculture stop entering California was the only time I was questioned, provided a weight number below the sticker on the trailer and their concern went to fruit smuggling.

I know I was over on the F-350, especially if tanks had anything in them. This time around I went with F-450, for the larger components, stability, and higher weight values. With that I will not have any issues if I am in an accident, weight will never be questioned.

The only other benefit I have heard is that if you do have a flat/blow you will not loose stability with DRW. Don't know if I would invest too much in that, but it would sure save your rims and easier to jack up!

 

The flat tire increased stability thing with a DRW always amused me too. What happens if you get the flat in the front? LOL.

 

Two tires at each rear corner. If one tire at a corner has a blowout, there is a second that will take the load until you can get stopped. That is assuming it too doesn't suffer failure due to the blowout of the first. Not sure what is amusing, it's logic.

Of course, a flat in the front would be no different...asking that question is absurd.

 

I had to make the same decision, but my 5th wheel was not nearly as heavy as yours. A triple axle and the way it's load makes a difference as to pin weight. That said, I wouldn't be comfortable pulling a rig your size and weight. I wanted to go with a SRW, but after looking the weights I decided to get the DRW. My 5th wheel is only 16K GVRW with a Pin at over 3K. I went with the DRW for a few of reasons.

I wanted the stability of the DRW.
I'm adding a auxiliary fuel tank/tool box in truck. Generator and washer/dryer on RV.
If we decided to upgrade our RV in the near future I have the truck to pull it with.

I've read on here where others said, they didn't want to drive a DRW, because of parking, drive troughs, etc. I have not had any issues with this. To me, it's like any other truck.

Will the F350 SRW pull that size rig? Yes, it will. Will you be over weight on the rear Axle? Yes, you will be. Would I spend that much money on a truck and RV that I would always be wondering if I made the right choice? No. I believe, I made the right choice for me and my family. You will need to make your own decision. I know that when I get on the road, I have a rig, that will do the job without having to worry about being over weight. Like other's have said, I'm not having to white knuckling it going down a hill in the rain with a semi next to me.

 

So there are two tires on each side on the front of a DRW? Wow, I guess the jokes on me. I had no idea! DRW's are def more stable then...

 

???? Read the very first sentence of my post. Are we suffering from some New Years Eve drinking?

 

Um, not necessarily. As I said in my previous post, it completely depends on the RV. Mine is WELL under the rear GAWR of my 2012 and will be even more under on my 2017.

 

With so much weigh you overload the truck rear axle and the tire.If the trailer is over 15000 lb. that for sure DRW category.

 

Oh, I read your whole post. DRW's have 8 tires on the 2017's. I had no idea. So, of course your right and that a blow out in the front would also be more stable because of the extra tires up there. As you pointed out...