77 F-250 Singal Cab long bed 2WD with a 400. Ok so I'm wanting to lower the front of my truck about 2 inches, and in the rear about 4 I have been doing some research and looking for parts trying to get a price of what this job will cost but I'm having trouble finding parts for a F250 I see dream beams and drop spindles and lowering shackles for F 100s all day long but nothing that a 250. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The only game in town for a 250 is airbagit.com

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There is a little to this. There are a few threads on lowering the 250 and I suggest you do your homework. I've been waiting a year to pull the trigger on this with my 73/250. I don't think in all my research I've found anyone who did the whole drop and everything worked and they were happy...

If you have luck finding more info or a build that the guy was happy with after please let me know.

At this point I think I might cut 1-1/2 springs off the front and flip the rear.

Again, lots of info on here but its not so easy with the 250.

 

I wonder if anyone has attempted or even just scoped out the possibility of a CV IFS install for the F-250s or F350s. The F-250 frame uses thicker steel main rails but is otherwise open to adapting the Crown Victoria unit in pretty much the same way as the F-100 and F-150 models are. The springs that come with the police/cab version are probably adequate but stiffer units should be possible if needed.
Anyone been there and done that?

 

You could also go with FatMan stuff. The sky's the limit if the wallet has no limit.

Unfortunately for me... my wallet is thin

 

Cutting coils is a hack way of lowering anything........You have no idea how it is going to affect the ride quality or handling until you have done it........Only thing worse is heating them with a torch and letting them sag......If you really want to do it and have it right.....it can be done.....might not be cheap but I'm sure someone has done it the right way.....Just my 2 cents worth.......

 

I didn't take offense with saying it's the hack way.. it is. I've been reading up on this lowing for over a year and a lot of people cut the coil. Not saying it's right but that's the route I'm heading. I've also read that using a progressive spring is better for ride quality after it's cut. I'll pull my stock springs and cut new ones. If it back fires on me I'll go back to square one. I also don't tow or load the truck up it's just a toy to me.

Ive read that anything over 1-1/2 being cut is tooo much and your camber will be to much.

Youll see people who bought the airbagit lowering I-beams only to say the tie-rod relocatirs where hokie at best.

Best of luck and whatever way you go please let us know. Like I said I've been waiting a year to do it and really do try and search for info on the subject. I'd love to do it a better way.

 

We considered many things when deciding on what to do with our 250.

-> 250 Lowering beams, but using 8 lug wheels for a sporty truck did not appeal to us.

-> Swapping to 1/2 ton lowering beams, spindles, brakes would have been fairly expensive

In the end the Crown Vic swap won. Good brakes, good ride, rack & pinion steering, affordable price. Truck is still under construction, but the CV was by far the best solution for us. We also switched to a 9" out of a 1/2 ton truck and flipped the axle.

 

That's looking great!! I'm afraid I'd run out of steam on the cv swap. It took me a year to redo the interior (still not 100%) and replacing the motor

Stick with it and keep keep us posted

 

I remember a friend with a '52 Ford tudor sedan heating the coils with a torch to lower it. It worked and the suspension probably suffered but, being kids cruising around in an old beater, we didn't much care or notice.

 

I might just have a machine shop make me some 2 inch longer shackles, just drop the rear end so the truck sits level and call it good. I've had one of those "bit off more than you can chew" projects and I was planning on this one not being one of those ha

 

The rear end is the easy part if all you want is level with the stock front. If you remove the helper spring (if you have one) the back will drop an inch or so.. you do lose payload but that's an easy mod.

then you can flip the front spring hanger. You grind off the factory rivets, flip the hanger and use grade 8 bolts. I think you can even use two of the factory holes. I think that gets you level and you can even put the helper spring back if it's to low.

There re are a bunch of write ups about the back end... it's the front that's the kicker