1948 Ford F6 Starter Solenoid replacement options
#1
1948 Ford F6 Starter Solenoid replacement options
I believe it is time to replace my starter solenoid.
I've converted the truck into 12v.
The current starter solenoid is 3 terminal.
I've found these but do not know which is best (I've listed them in order of what I think).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-HD-Continuous-Duty-Version-Solenoid-Switch-Relay-12-Volt-3-Terminal-12V/332028199771?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3D8fd014278d4f4feea110200e549bbfc6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371488733695
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222251451948?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291687236028?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251537055955?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371488733695?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Do any of these seem better than the rest?
Thank you.
I've converted the truck into 12v.
The current starter solenoid is 3 terminal.
I've found these but do not know which is best (I've listed them in order of what I think).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-HD-Continuous-Duty-Version-Solenoid-Switch-Relay-12-Volt-3-Terminal-12V/332028199771?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3D8fd014278d4f4feea110200e549bbfc6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371488733695
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222251451948?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291687236028?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251537055955?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371488733695?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Do any of these seem better than the rest?
Thank you.
#2
This is the one I used because I didn't change the circuitry. The OEM starter button grounds the coil, completing the circuit.
24060 - Intermittent Duty SPST Series - Standard High Current Relays from DC Solenoids and Relays - Littelfuse
24060 - Intermittent Duty SPST Series - Standard High Current Relays from DC Solenoids and Relays - Littelfuse
#4
#6
Any high amp solenoid will have a duty cycle but most don't give that data because they are vehicle specific. It doesn't actually cut out, it means (as a guideline) that if you are going to put 750 amps through it for ten seconds you should let it cool for that time. 750 amps is roughly double what the average 12 volt starter draws. Most manufacturers recommend that you don't crank an engine for more that 20 seconds anyway.
#7
#1 goes to the starter motor.
#2 goes to the starter button.
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#8
What is weird is that I thought this year ('48) had a single terminal starter button, but mine has two terminals (one for connection to power the other to the center post on the starter solenoid). So the right side of the solenoid is connected to the power source (bat +), the center to the black wire off the starter button, and the right side to the starter itself.
#9
#10
#11
What are the "red" and "black" wires? We can't see your truck.
Take a #16 piece of wire, and go from the battery to the small terminal on your solenoid. Does it crank?
This is how the later style (51-on) solenoids with the two-terminal starter button get wired. This assumes your new solenoid is the later style, is that what you bought?
Take a #16 piece of wire, and go from the battery to the small terminal on your solenoid. Does it crank?
This is how the later style (51-on) solenoids with the two-terminal starter button get wired. This assumes your new solenoid is the later style, is that what you bought?
#13
I edited the schematic to show for 12v/(-) ground, which I see you have. You don't have to run power to the starter button thru the ignition switch, you can come directly off battery power (that was stock). But then accidentally bumping the button (or a kid pushing it) will crank the engine, likely with it in gear...
#14
I edited the schematic to show for 12v/(-) ground, which I see you have. You don't have to run power to the starter button thru the ignition switch, you can come directly off battery power (that was stock). But then accidentally bumping the button (or a kid pushing it) will crank the engine, likely with it in gear...
The power off the battery 12V+ goes to right side of solenoid, and that goes to the starter button. The starter button returns to the small terminal (middle), The left side of the solenoid goes directly to the starter. This was how the truck has been for 2 years.
Typically if I wanted to start the truck while under the hood I'd run a wire from solenoid battery side, and another wire from the small middle terminal. As long as the ignition was in the on position, I could touch the two wires together and start the truck. Saving using the starter button
Mine is a 1948 running the cluster and ignition switch per the manual. So your diagram wouldn't be my configuration. But it's the same premise.
if that helps.
#15
I edited the schematic to show for 12v/(-) ground, which I see you have. You don't have to run power to the starter button thru the ignition switch, you can come directly off battery power (that was stock). But then accidentally bumping the button (or a kid pushing it) will crank the engine, likely with it in gear...
Yea, you can crank it over without a key in the ignition no starting of course, or if running cranking it while already started and possibly moving. I found that strange but understood that was the default configuration.