I thought I throw this out the forum and gain some learning. I'm shifting out of disassemble and into the assembly phase of my build. Many of the fasteners are now junk: cut off, wrung off, stripped, etc.

When ordering bolts for the fenders and bed, there are stainless steel options. Grandad was always of fan of stainless so I bought some. Where do you draw the line? Put the whole thing back together w/stainless? If you're mixing types but need to buy a new bolt for reasons above, what type of steel do you go for? Do you vary it if we're talking body vs. water pump vs. frame/chassis?

Lastly, did I remember reading somewhere that stainless w/out never seize is a bad idea. I use never seize as a rule of thumb but trying to remember what happens if you forget.

 

So long as you're not going with a correct restoration, go with grade 5 or grade 8 bolts and nuts. I go to a seller where I can buy grade bolts by the pound. Figure out how many bolts you need and buy at least 25% more bolts, washers and nuts. You'll find a use for what you think is extra.

 

I have used about 100 5/16--24 zink bolts and loc nuts grade 8
about 75 3/8--24 zink & loc nuts grade 8
about 40 5/16 --NC SS carriage and loc nuts most painted(could not find NF)
but I also cleaned up a lot of the original bolts and nuts/washers
and I have not put in the bed wood yet
I use anti seize on SS



49 F1 and other bolts

 

These trucks survived for a bunch of years with good steel fasteners. Put grade 5 or 8 fasteners in, as Ray suggested, and don't worry about it for the next 65 years.

 

Stainless is fine for bits you see and worth paying extra. Bear in mind though that corrosion will occur if they interface with untreated carbon steel due to sacrificial protection. More of an issue with any galvanised steel.
Contact with copper should be avoided for same reason. Could that be what you were thinking with anti-seize? i.e. copper based ones.

 

My experience with SS is that if there is the tiniest most microscopic burr on the threads the darn things seize right up. Anti seize helps , but 5's or 8's are plenty good.

 

This is a good thread with very useful information, I have used all SS nuts and bolts, except for where a graded nut or bolt is called for. Obviously this is just another in a series of well intentioned mistakes on my part. I thought that no, or less rust, plus the ability to polish for appearance would be better (and no I did not always use anti seize) oops again. I guess this is just another case of "The only stupid question, is the one that you didn't ask". "ROCKING ON" But it seems that I got the 4 track tangled again.

 

Stainless nuts on gal. or zinc coated bolts or vice versa is a no-no . It is asking for trouble .

 

Cadmium plated grade 5 fasteners will work on everything unless grade 8 or "extra strength" is called for (avoid zinc coating if possible because it wastes away). Bear in mind that there are stainless steels at each end of the galvanic scale, and the least noble are subject to oxidation (rusting). Stainless steel fasteners are highly subject to galling where no lubricant is used - white lithium based grease is best because it's soap based and doesn't dry out.

 

Stainless isn't my first choice, I find the threads will gall up. My priority is using fine thread and fiber lock nuts. Washer under the nut. Locking washer when needed. I work in the aviation world....everything there is fine thread and locking, cadmium plated (or zinc dichromate)

 

Cadmium is not used any more, because it's toxic. Whatever they use now is just called a "bright finish".

For fenders and such, anything that is Gr 5 is good enough, IF it's really Gr 5. Lots of the SS sold at hardware stores is really poor quality, who knows what alloy. The threads are lousy too.

 

Cadmium plating is alive and well. I have no problem getting fasteners from Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc. but not from box stores where they only have bright zinc or galvanized.
All the information on Cadmium - Coatings

 

Stainless is fine if it's lubricated to prevent cold-welding (aka galling). Fine threads in the aviation industry is the norm due to extreme high and low vibration frequencies, not found in automotive applications. Fiber and Ny-Lock nuts are desirable in certain applications, and in some instances can replace castle nuts and lock wire, such as on my F-6 COE hood hinges. So, zinc chromate or zinc dichromate, which do you prefer?

 

I have had both chromate and dichromate....I prefer the gold tint.

 

Thanks for all the input on materials. Super insightful.

I also wasn't expecting schoo's shopping list. Has anyone every posted a starter kit to order for an F1 build? That could help all the folks going down to the frame and back...

@jim, it doesn't sound like you put zinc nuts on SS bolts, so it might not be too much to worry about.