I am accepting that I have to replace timing chain since I have 40 psi fuel and I have spark. Dizzy rotor at #1 with harmonic balancer timing at 35 deg BTDC on static setting. Absolutely no kick with cranking forever.

Engine was fine until this event.

Do I need any special tools?? How many hours work?? What parts to replace and what engine health check before investing my labor and parts. Truck is great otherwise.

Is this the sequence (I am going from past experience but so many years ago and on different vehicle):

1. Set engine at TDC on harmonic balancer
2. Remove radiator
3. Remove serpentine belt
4. Remove crank pulley
5. Remove water pump
6. Pull harmonic balancer
7. Remove timing case
8. Replace seal in timing case w new
9. Replace water pump w new
10. Pull camshaft sprocket
11. Pull crank sprocket
12. Remove and replace plus lube chain or is it a belt?????
13. Set cam sprocket dot at 6 PM
14. Crank timing mark is at 12 noon
15. Restore in reverse sequence

Anything to be on the look out for????

 

A static compression wouldn't hurt to verify your issue. As well as marking the distributor, and pulling it out to check for a sheared off roll pin. If the roll pin sheared but is still somewhat holding, you'll have good compression, you'll have fuel, you'll have spark, but the timing would be off enough it may not run. If the timing chain jumped, you'll have everything you're observing but also low compression.

I'd hate for you to go and do all that work but still have the same issue.

How many miles are on this truck?

Did you check the rotor like MudSport96 suggested in one of your other 3 threads on this issue?

Before digging into this, please check:
1) Is the rotor retaining tab in place
2) Distributor gear roll pin
3) Compression on a couple cylinders (2 or 3 should be fine)

 

Thank you so much for all of the help.

Yes rotor tab is in place.....
Will do a compression check like you suggest........
Will pull dizzy to check sheared roll pin.......has this been known to actually occur much??

 

Yes, somebody posted that they had the pin sheer, but I can't find the thread now.

 

The sheared pin was with a new but cheap chinese replacement dizzy, while it is possible for this to happen with any distributor it's not common. Id also suggest the OP check with a noid light for injector pulse and pull codes, because another possible cause of this no start is a fault with the TFI module or PCM that results in the injectors not pulsing.

 

Thank you so much for the help.

"Id also suggest the OP check with a noid light for injector pulse and pull codes"

Forgive my ignorance but what is a "noid light" and what voltage is the injector pulse???? I assume I will hook a current pickup type device on the wire to the injector?????

I do not know how to pull the codes. I will buy a device if I know what it is???

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=p04NPv_gXsI

​​​​​​​here is a video on how to check codes

 

I don't disagree that's a good idea, but he did say in one of the other threads that he tried starting fluid to no avail. Maybe not definitive but it at least suggests either spark or compression issues.