My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries. We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer.
​​​​​We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Did you scan for trouble code clues, if so, post All code Numbers, as they can help focus your trouble shoot.

 

I don't have a scanner, but I can borrow one tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.

 

The only code is P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
The check engine light is not on. The converter has been removed from the exhaust system. He told me that it's been starting every time today. He drives around 35-40 miles to work one way.

 

Also, I plugged the scanner in, turned the key on and the wipers started. The wiper switch was off!

 

Ok, no relevant trouble code clues. So, seeing as how it takes compression, air, fuel & spark to make em run, next time it's in one of it's no start fits, use your inductive timing light to safely check for spark & your fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure, to see what's going missing & let us know what you find.

 

When it acts up the fuel pump doesn't run. You can clearly hear it when it's on.

 

Here it is, not the best but for the price it's well worth it. He only gave 600$ for it.



This is the flexplate that was causing the initial problem.

 

Ok, that's good input. When the fuel pump won't run, perform a voltage check at the in cabin, passenger side foot well firewall location, just above the carpet line, at the fuel pump crash cut off inertia switch, to see if operating voltage is making it To & Through the inertia switch electrical connector. This will check most of the wiring run to the pump, but not the connections atop the pump.

If all that checks out ok & a fuel pump electrical connector wiggle won't wake it up, try thumping the fuel tank with the heal of your hand & see if the pump will wake up & run. If so, suspect a worn pump armature/brush problem & consider replacing the fuel pump.

Removing the tail gate to make things lighter, loosening the bed bolts & fuel tank inlet hose & disconnecting the rear tail light wiring connector, to move the bed back to rest on the rear wheels & saw horses, to get at the fuel pump without having to drop the fuel tank, is said to be easier than draining & dropping the tank.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Thanks a million pawpaw. I've worked on vehicles for years but I'm an older vehicle man. Just not familiar with the newer electronics. I've replaced several fuel pumps in the tank and I COMPLETELY agree with the truck bed removal. I cleaned the connections on the frame and the big one in the bottom of the cab. He says that it's been working great every time today. Glad to know where the inertia switch is. I'll keep you posted.

 

Looks like he got his money's worth & with a little wrench turning & scheduled maintenance TLC, it could likely run real good & last a lot longer.
Good idea to have cleaned the electrical connections. As we only have 12 volts to work with, so to prevent under load voltage drop, our electrical connections need to be clean, bright & tight!!!
Will be interesting to hear if that has fixed the problem.
There have been reports of the inertia switch internal contacts being bad, so keep that in mind in any future trouble shoot. There is a Ford inertia switch replacement program, or recall on a limited model year run, but I can't remember what year/s it covered right now.
You could go here, Search Wiring Diagrams put the vehicle info in & click on the red header TSB button, to look up the TSB's on it, also wiring pictorials there too, that may come in handy. Will be interesting to hear how it goes.

 

Thanks again pawpaw. My buddy found a parts truck and we're waiting to hear from it for the front end parts and a tailgate. The best part is that the parts truck is white too.

 

The link is NICE!

 

There's another problem, he says the wipers aren't working now. They came on when I scanned codes yesterday without the wiper switch on.

 

Scan the Ranger with a ELM scan tool, running FORScan (or the like software that's tweaked for Fords) on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html
The ELM running FORScan can query All of the Rangers computer/controllers, including the GEM that controls the wipers, for trouble code clues, then post All code Numbers.