Ok the title says it all. Around the mountains here all the extended cab portions of the truck cabs on bricknose trucks are rotted out. I have a rust hole free 87 f250 I'd like to keep that way. Can I drill some holes on the underside or inside and apply some sort of spray oil? Any ideas appreciated. thanks.

 

The BEST way to have it not rust..
Don't drive it where it will get wet or salty

 

Wash it frequently. Pick it up and pressure wash the underside. Repair damaged paint. Apply undercoat over seams.

 

Dip it in hot wax?????? LOL

 

Make sure the rear window does not leak(common)
also make sure the supercab window does not leak.

I am not all that familiar with the supercabs yet, but if they are like a reg cab or crewcab, there is FOAM in the cab corner that retains moisture. If you can get it out that would help greatly

 

Apply used motor oil to the underside every 5k miles.

 

Don't get caught doing it in my state or you will be fined quite heavily

 

They're full of foam too.

 

They seem to rust from the inside out. That is why I was curious about drilling holes in an attempt to apply oil to the inside. I guess if it is full of foam then i wont be able to coat the inside very well. I know its just an ole beater but id like to keep it looking decent and it will HAVE to be in salt and snow



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Do not use undercoating as it hardens, then can chip off...rust will begin...then work its way under the undercoating that hasn't chipped off.

Buy a can of Rhino (or similar) bed liner material at a parts store and either brush it or spray it on.

 

Use something similar to Krown rust control. It works extremely well.
Also, the bottom of the cab has double wall construction and makes a perfect pocket for rust to start in. I'm not sure you could clean it out.

 

Pull your interior trim and remove the foam. You then can also spray with Fluid Film as well. It is a once a year deal. I recommend getting the 24" extension wand as well. I typically get a 6 pack for each vehicle each year and go to town.

Bed crossmembers, bed wheels wells, boxed area under taillights, inside tailgate, cab corners, doors, cab crossmembers, cab mounts, inside fenders, and rad support.

basically ANYWHERE rust forms and there is inadequate paint coverage

 

Ok so once I pull the rear seat and interior panel I will need to cut holes on the inside to access the foam correct?

 

This ^^^^^^. And it's rain, more than snow. Along with the rear window (esp. if it's a slider), check the QUARTER windows. The whole window and frame are an assembly, with studs built into the outer frame. Those studs go through holes in the cab wall, and are fastened with nuts tightened to only something like 22 INCH-pounds (mine's an OBS, but the bricks will be similar). No loctite of course; that would cost FoMoCo an extra 10 cents per vehicle! So they work loose, let rain in, and.....

We pulled our interior panels out and checked those nuts and they were BARELY finger-tight. Did a quick hose test and could see the water coming in. Removed each nut, re-installed with loctite and torqued to spec, re-ran the hose test and no leak.

The foam, of course, is the co-conspirator. IIRC you can reach the foam between the cab walls with the interior panel removed (my wife did the work, so I don't remember for sure).

 

She's a keeper!
Well i guess the next step is to remove the interior panels. I wonder if toluene thinner would dissolve the foam.