Since no emissions, (like me) I threw out 41.5 pounds of emissions "stuff" that didn't work any way, and installed an Edelbrock 4-V intake and carb, instantly Purrs like a kitten and a lot better mileage!
Installed a ZF 5 speed, finished that today, mileage should go up even more.....

 

So if I choose to remove all of the emissions crap, since it's all such a mess on mine anyway, what all should I remove? And once again I've heard 4barrel and 2 barrel come up for fuel mileage. Which would be the best option?

 

That would be entirely up to you what you want to run a 4BBL or a 2BBL
An after market intake and a 4BBL will help with power (top end) and fuel economy. The intake will help across the whole RPM range.


It appears that your truck was originally fitted with A/C Does it still have the compressor ? If not that is what the 2 studs are for the A/C bracket.
See below.

I Will need to see the whole vac diagram then I can just high light what you should pull off. See below.

We will need to know if you are planning on adding the A/C back to functional state as it will determine if what part of the vac system has to remain and or be modified.

The electrical stuff can wait for now as it will be much easier to deal with once all the redundant vac lines are pulled off.

Should also get a pic of the belt driven accessories that are still left on the truck. Just too see what is there still.

A couple hours or yarding and pulling will get it all sorted out.

 

In my opinion, the new aftermarket 4bbl and intake would be the best way to go. But have you run this engine yet? What shape is the engine in mechanically? Hate to see you spend all that money on a carb and intake and put them on a engine that is no good.

 

Okay, snapped some more pics. I do not plan on having ac, so I will rip all that out as well. I don't even use it on the wife's new fusion. I'm more of a wind guy. I just want the basics for it to run smoothly with good fuel mileage, because down the road when my son gets older I will build this with him and probably replace the motor and trans, but we're talking probably 5 years or more, since he's only 5 now, haha.









This is where i thought the ac compressor went, because of the bracket above the alternator.

 

That area above the alternator is where the A.I.R pump used to reside.

 

It looks like you still have a very complete engine. It's very rare to see an original air cleaner assembly with the hose to the radiator core support still in place. Most of the original parts are still there, except for the wrong carburetor.

You said fuel mileage and reliability was your main goal. You should strongly consider replacing your carburetor with the correct one.

 

X 2 on the carb and air cleaner. It took me 6 months to find that same OE air cleaner...don't let it go.

 

I have decided to order the right carb and stick with that for now. I was doing plugs and wires, and just saw a 2 wire connector dangling in the engine bay. Second pic is of where the wire goes to, a bracket right before the gas tank under the truck. The first pic is of the connector in the engine bay. Any ideas to what it is by chance? Also got the pcv hooked back up to the carb. Putting everything together now to see how she idles

 

forgot to add, I also noticed this box where 2 vac lines connect on the back of the intake area. Any idea as to what goes here?

 

That thing on the back of the intake is the "VCV" in the picture below. You are going to have to decipher that diagram if you want to hook everything back up. Keep asking questions.

 

That bracket + device under the truck near the gas tank doesn't look factory, and neither does that connector to be honest.

Yeah, that blue device with the two vacuum connections is a temperature-actuated Vacuum Control Valve, it opens & closes as the coolant temperature changes and, usually in combination with other such valves, applies/removes vacuum to some other device as a result (kinda looks like ultimately to your EGR valve)

 

Sorry been away got called out of town to the territories unexpectedly sucks when work gets in the way of important stuff lol
As noted that bracket is for your smog pump.

So see below for what you need to keep. And how route the rest.
If it not highlihghted it stays.

Red Highlighted items

Remove and everything connected to them You can pull the EGR valve or block it off it may be leaking so best is to pull it on block it off. Unless you are sure it is not leaking leave it on.

Yellow Highlighted items. Optional.
Leave it in or pull it. It will not affect performance in any manner.
This is the Evap system. If you opt for a Canadian Calibration carb which will give you better performance more power and potentially better fuel mileage remove it. You can leave the vac canister and the tank will just vent to it then to atmosphere.

Green Highlighted items. Test

The VRV is a vacuum regulator valve. Or a delay valve. It delays spark advance. You can pull it off and run a vac line from the carb to the Dist. Hook A up to A

If you end up with pinging (detonation) at any throttle setting hook it back up. If you opt for Canadian Calibration Carb there should be near zero chance of pinging if timing it set to factory specs.

If the passenger manifold still has it heart shield and hose to the Air cleaner this is the low temp pre heater for the intake. The A/CL DV Item 1 on Diagram is the Air Cleaner diverter valve that controls the air flow from manifold to the air cleaner. The A/CL Bi Met is the Air Cleaner Bi Item 2 metallic strip that controls when which the diverter valve open and closes
according to temp. Id the heat shield is missing you can dissconect it from the A/CL Bi Met and manifold.

Make sure all unused on ports on the Intake and carb are capped off

See blow Diagram.

if you have any questions just ask