5.0 will not run
#1
5.0 will not run
I am a reader and not a poster, but I could not find anything already posted for my problem. If something is there, I would appreciate any guidance to it.
For my problem, I have a 2014 F150 Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.0 coyote. The truck has 46,000 miles. Last Saturday, I was towing a small trailer with 40 concrete blocks on it for about 15 miles. Well under the towing limit. When I backed the trailer into place, the truck just shut off. There was an odd odor, as if something was burning. Nothing found wrong, the engine started back up and ran without issue. The engine light was on, so I pulled the codes. The codes were Left bank too lean and right bank too lean. The codes cleared out and did not come back.
As we left the site, the truck sounded as if it was dieseling as we accelerated and then went away. We put some fuel system cleaner in and filled up the tank as I needed gas anyway. The truck ran fine all week after that. I drove to work every day and did not have an issue at all until Friday afternoon. I was away from home and on my way back. All of a sudden, it felt like I lost all power and the truck would not accelerate or maintain speed. I got over to the right shoulder and it shut off. I tried starting and it would start immediately, but just die. Will not idle or stay running.
It was towed to the closest dealership by Ford Roadside Assistance, but that's over an hour from me. They said that they would not even get it in to look at until maybe some time on Monday.
I've been looking and cannot find anything on this specific issue so I was wondering if anyone has experienced similar. I own a small farm, so I rely on my trucks heavily. This Ford Focus rental is just not cutting it.
For my problem, I have a 2014 F150 Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.0 coyote. The truck has 46,000 miles. Last Saturday, I was towing a small trailer with 40 concrete blocks on it for about 15 miles. Well under the towing limit. When I backed the trailer into place, the truck just shut off. There was an odd odor, as if something was burning. Nothing found wrong, the engine started back up and ran without issue. The engine light was on, so I pulled the codes. The codes were Left bank too lean and right bank too lean. The codes cleared out and did not come back.
As we left the site, the truck sounded as if it was dieseling as we accelerated and then went away. We put some fuel system cleaner in and filled up the tank as I needed gas anyway. The truck ran fine all week after that. I drove to work every day and did not have an issue at all until Friday afternoon. I was away from home and on my way back. All of a sudden, it felt like I lost all power and the truck would not accelerate or maintain speed. I got over to the right shoulder and it shut off. I tried starting and it would start immediately, but just die. Will not idle or stay running.
It was towed to the closest dealership by Ford Roadside Assistance, but that's over an hour from me. They said that they would not even get it in to look at until maybe some time on Monday.
I've been looking and cannot find anything on this specific issue so I was wondering if anyone has experienced similar. I own a small farm, so I rely on my trucks heavily. This Ford Focus rental is just not cutting it.
#2
Can you better describe the burning smell? Like did smell like electrical burn, brakes too hot, rubber burning, or a more of a chemical burning type of odor? The dieseling symptom is related to the lean fuel mixture. And that could be caused by all sorts of various issues. Just to name a few a clogged air filter, dirt or damaged MAF sensor, bad O2 sensors, leaky or dirty fuel injectors, clogged cats, dirty or damaged throttle body, vacuum leaks, and so on. How long have you used and driven the truck with this issue.
#3
#4
#5
There is a known problem with the 5.0 fuel pump fuse over heating and melting the plastic around it. It's #27 in the fuse box under the hood. Ford has come out with a fuse relocation kit that uses a blank fuse slot and it changes the type of fuse used to one that can carry the load. I have an 2014 and did mine preventively and is an easy fix. Even if this isn't your problem, I'd look into the relocation kit. Your lean bank codes seem to suggest a fuel delivery problem.
Edit: More info.
Crank No-Start, Stalling – 2009-2014 Ford F-150
JUNCTION BOX FUSE 27 – CRANK NO START, LOSS OF RPM AND/OR MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED WITH MULTIPLE DTCS
FORD: 2009-2014 F-150
Issue
Some 2009-2014 F-150 vehicles can exhibit a crank no-start, stalling and/or a malfunction indictor lamp (MIL) illuminated with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0230, P025A, P0627, U0109, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207 and/or P0208.
Action
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct this condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Does this vehicle exhibit a crank no-start, loss of RPM and/or a MIL illuminated with DTCs P0230, P025A, P0627, U0109, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207 and/or P0208?
Yes – proceed to Step 2.
No – this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics.
Does the battery junction box (BJB) exhibit signs of excessive heat at fuse F27 (20 amp) terminal location?
Yes – install a BJB fuse F27 relocation kit. Refer to the instructions in the kit.
No – this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnostics.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
EL3Z-14293-AFuse Relocation Kit
Edit: More info.
Crank No-Start, Stalling – 2009-2014 Ford F-150
JUNCTION BOX FUSE 27 – CRANK NO START, LOSS OF RPM AND/OR MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED WITH MULTIPLE DTCS
FORD: 2009-2014 F-150
Issue
Some 2009-2014 F-150 vehicles can exhibit a crank no-start, stalling and/or a malfunction indictor lamp (MIL) illuminated with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0230, P025A, P0627, U0109, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207 and/or P0208.
Action
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct this condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Does this vehicle exhibit a crank no-start, loss of RPM and/or a MIL illuminated with DTCs P0230, P025A, P0627, U0109, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207 and/or P0208?
Yes – proceed to Step 2.
No – this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics.
Does the battery junction box (BJB) exhibit signs of excessive heat at fuse F27 (20 amp) terminal location?
Yes – install a BJB fuse F27 relocation kit. Refer to the instructions in the kit.
No – this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnostics.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
EL3Z-14293-AFuse Relocation Kit
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#7
Edit to add, I do have an extended service contract to 120,000 and they are running that now.
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#8
Dealer called and said MAF failed. No signal at all. Based on the reply from paredneck33 It seems likely that it caused all symptoms.
I've done most of my vehicle stuff around mid 90s to mid 2000s Mustangs and have always modified them heavily. I've never seen a MAF fail like this where there is no signal. I've also gotten different codes when they failed. Leave it to me to get the oddball complete failure. I don't see anything where this is a common failure mode.
I've done most of my vehicle stuff around mid 90s to mid 2000s Mustangs and have always modified them heavily. I've never seen a MAF fail like this where there is no signal. I've also gotten different codes when they failed. Leave it to me to get the oddball complete failure. I don't see anything where this is a common failure mode.
#9
There is a known problem with the 5.0 fuel pump fuse over heating and melting the plastic around it. It's #27 in the fuse box under the hood. Ford has come out with a fuse relocation kit that uses a blank fuse slot and it changes the type of fuse used to one that can carry the load. I have an 2014 and did mine preventively and is an easy fix. Even if this isn't your problem, I'd look into the relocation kit. Your lean bank codes seem to suggest a fuel delivery problem.
#10
Mail ordered from Tasca and was 18.19 delivered. Very detailed instructions with pictures come with it. Cheap insurance IMO. When you see the small gauge wire they use for fuse 27 you can see why it over heats. Not engineered correctly for the load. The new kit has much thicker wire. It's all done in the fuse box above the radiator.
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#15
Yes. The dealer did press them to cover the rental as well. In all I was pleased with the dealer. Never been to that dealership before. In the end just the $100 deductible out of pocket.