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This leak is coming from the pan and from behind the NSS. It does not seem to be coming from any higher than that. It leaks quite a bit after driving. I am not sure what parts I need to fix this or how hard something like this is to do. This is a C6 auto on a 86 Ford bronco. This is leaking a lot worse than the oil (which is only leaking an ounce+ or - after driving).
Check to see exactly which seal is leaking,there are 2, There is the selector shaft seal which is in the case behind the linkage. You will have to drop the valve body to do that one.
More often than not the leak is the o-ring on the outside where the kick down lever is.This one is easy, just remove the kick down link,pry out the o-ring and fit a new one
If you remove the grey neutral lockout switch housing, there is an o-ring underneath that can be replaced.
There is nothing behind the neutral lockout switch . You have to drop the Valve body to remove the selector shaft then you can remove the seal and replace it. C4 Shown C6 Identical.
So when I take off the pan I will have to remove the valve body, correct? How is this done and can a rookie do it without messing up the transmission? If I am in there is there anything else I should replace while I am at it? Also, is there a place to drain the transmission fluid somewhere on there? I did not see a place, but I may have missed it.
If I ordered an assortment of o-rings (I saw one with 400+ pieces for around $12) would that work as well or is this o-ring specifically made for a transmission and not SAE or Metric?
Also Mathew, how would I get at that o-ring in the pic that was behind the NSS? I removed the NSS a couple of weeks ago to clean it up, but did not pay attention to how the seals were in there. It probably is that seal on the outside because I did not notice the leak until after I cleaned the NSS and the transmission and that probably cracked the seal. It may have been from just getting it running as well though.
Oh, and for a gasket for the pan, should I get fiber, rubber, or cork?
I have taken a few more pics of the transmission and it is leaking around that other bolt as well whatever that is. There is no engine oil in the transmission is there? I did not think there was, but above and towards the front there is engine oil around those bolts but I think that may have blown back on the transmission from the rear seal.
How is this done and can a rookie do it without messing up the transmission?
Yes, the valve body removes rather easily with just a few long bolts and no gaskets to replace. They are the larger (maybe 10mm) bolts around the outside edge (http://video.boxwrench.net/transmiss...emoval-300.jpg). If you separate the valve body halves, then you will have more work to do to remove the old gasket and put in a new one (plus getting the check ***** in the right place, etc)
Originally Posted by hharris8
If I am in there is there anything else I should replace while I am at it?
Definitely the pan gasket... maybe the filter (depending on how dirty your fluid is).
Originally Posted by hharris8
Also, is there a place to drain the transmission fluid somewhere on there? I did not see a place, but I may have missed it.
No, you will need to remove the transmission pan with a large bucket or pan underneath to catch the fluid. Use new fluid when you refill. BTW, new ATF costs alot.
How in the world would you keep check ***** in the correct place when the halves are vertical? Hopefully I will not have to do that. Can the filter be changed without having the valve body out? It probably needs it because as far as I know it has never been changed.
So when I take off the pan I will have to remove the valve body, correct? How is this done and can a rookie do it without messing up the transmission? If I am in there is there anything else I should replace while I am at it? Also, is there a place to drain the transmission fluid somewhere on there? I did not see a place, but I may have missed it.
If I ordered an assortment of o-rings (I saw one with 400+ pieces for around $12) would that work as well or is this o-ring specifically made for a transmission and not SAE or Metric?
Thanks!
The O ring will not be metric it will be Imperial.
The easiest thing to do is replace the kick down O-ring then wash the surrounding area off with some brake clean. Drive it for a week or so then and check for leaks. 9 times out of ten it will be the kick down O ring that will be leaking. See pic below.
If it is not that then worry about doing the selector shaft seal in the case.
Dropping the valve body sucks it is messy job and you have to treat it like an operating room for cleanliness. One grain of sand in the VB can mess up a transmission. If you do have to do the case seal it is a good opportunity to do a complete fluid and filter change.
But no point in even worrying about it until you try the kick down O-ring first.
Great. I will try that first. Is it that ring in the shaft that you are holding or is it the black ring in post 4 that is behind the shaft that I need to replace? Also, I am not sure, but I think it may be leaking from around the pan as well, though I do not think it is to bad. Can the pan gasket be replaced without removing the valve body or having to have a sterile environment?
Great. I will try that first. Is it that ring in the shaft that you are holding or is it the black ring in post 4 that is behind the shaft that I need to replace? Also, I am not sure, but I think it may be leaking from around the pan as well, though I do not think it is to bad. Can the pan gasket be replaced without removing the valve body or having to have a sterile environment?
Yes that Black O-ring see below.
No you don't have to be as meticulous changing the pan gasket as you are when dropping the valve body. But you still can't get a bunch of crud in it.
Again replace the O ring for the kick down lever and see if you have leaks.
You may also be able to tighten up the bolts holding the pan on. But replace your kick down o ring wash everything off and check to see you still have leaks.
What is that nut above the kickdown o ring in post 7 pic 1 that has a drop of ATF on it?
That is the adjustment screw/nut for the intermediate band. It also has rubber attached to the back of it and will deteriorate over the years. The rebuild kit has a replacement for this nut also.
10-14-2016, 10:38 AM
