My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. PLEASE HELP ! This is my plow truck and i dont want to go through the winter without it.

 

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. If this was an 87 i'd tell you how to very easily test it, but your 92 might be wired differently.

I'm surprised this has a 2.9 it's what i have in my 87 & it loves to be pushed hard. I thought 1990 was the last year for it

The switch is on top of the steering column and very easy to replace, about a 10 minute job on my 87.

 

Forgot to ask if your gauges & check engine light come on? If they dont i would replace the ignition switch

 

yes they do but i worked on it today and found out something new.if i take off the small power wire to the starter solenoid while its turning over it will start and keep running.if you let it set you have to do it all over.

 

I think you might have a bad ignition module. It's been awhile ago that a guy on here had the same problem. It would run only when the key was held at start. He had a bad ignition module

The diagrams for my 87 (i'm guessing yours is the same) show the start & run pins of the ignition switch power one pin on the ignition module. Another wire from the start pin powers a different pin on the ignition module only when the key is at start.

If this was mine i would remove the ignition module and test it with my module tester.

The tester i have ia a CP9087, very handy.

 

I'd bet on an ignition module also. There is a START circuit that supplies full voltage to the coil, while the RUN circuit cuts the volts to keep the coil from overheating.
A bad ignition switch would be sensitive to position from the way mine went. It would start and run, but when you let go of the key totally, it would stall, or not, depending on how you released the key. It finally got to where I had to hold the key EXACTLY for it to run. The switch is held in place by 'break off' fasteners that leave no 'bolt head' to wrench on. File a flat on either side, and use pliers or adjustable wrench to remove. Use normal bolts to retain the new switch or pay FoMoCo $$'s for 'break off'.
tom

 

tomw do you mean the switch or module?

 

You said the gauges are working, so the ignition switch is OK. Looks like the module is the culprit.

 

Do you have to take it off to test it
?

 

My first sentence stated what I thought pertinent, but I added more to help rule out an ignition switch that was becoming 'flaky'.
Module.
BTW, you will need a special wrench to remove it if it is distributor mounted. A very thin walled socket with a built-in handle is the one most often used. Ford recessed the bolt heads with very little clearance. Dunno why, but that the way it is.
And you'll need heat conducting paste that you smear over the distributor-side of the module after cleaning the distributor. The spade connectors must be forced (vertically up) into the pickup coil... be WARY that the coil 'plastic' has not deteriorated to let the connectors wiggle out of the way, but be gentle... Tighten with the tool.
tom

added...
I don't know the test procedure by memory, but if you want an auto parts store to test, you would have to remove for that. Some may test the module, others not. There is a procedure in the booklet that comes with a emissions test kit of 20 years ago, along with jumpers and a 'tester' run by a 9v battery. Shop manual will likely have test procedure, and it may be possible to do 99% while installed.
tom

 

The last module wrench I bought was about 7 bucks at Autozone & the new module was 30 bucks.

In a nut shell use the module wrench to remove the recessed screws, remove the electrical connector & push straight down on the module to remove it.

Like Tom said an auto parts store might be willing to test it for you and don't forget to use the insulating grease that comes with the new module.
Edit
Better to do it in this order. Remove electrical connector, remove recessed screws push straight down on the module.

 

New info,i took the power supply wire off the starter solenoid then ran a wire into the cab and another back out to the solenoid. when i start the truck i have the wire touching when it starts i disconnect the wire ,and it stays running.then you can put the wires back together completing the circuit .it will run fine for awhile .sometimes it will die .it will go back to not starting again. all i have to do is disconnect the wires when it starts and it runs again.

 

DeputyDawg:
When the smoke gets out of your coil from overheating, you will think a bit out how you could have fixed it in your garage, parking lot, or driveway. The tow bill will more than cover what you would have spent to fix it. Your choice.
Could also be the resistor hanging alongside the wire loom from inner fender to the engine. They can break down and lose continuity.
tom

 

Try this, draw a large T on a piece of paper
At the bottom of the T write ignition switch start pin and call this wire A

Where the 2 lines/wires come together write starter solenoid

On the right end of the T write starter motor. Call this wire B

On the left end of the T write positive battery cable. Call it wire C

If you are connecting a jumper from wire A into the cab and back out to the solenoid all you are doing is taking the ignition switch out of the circuit when you open your jumper.

Makes me wonder EXACTLY what is happening when the circuit is normal and you try to start it. Are we having fun yet?

Does the starter and engine quit running when you release the key
OR
Does the starter & engine keep on running when you release the key?

Heres how it's supposed to work Turn the key to start and 12 volts on wire A closes the starter solenoid contacts
The solenoid connects 12 volts from the battery to the starter motor.

Release the key & voltage from the ignition switch goes away and the solenoid contacts open up

 

87 xlt can you email me and i'll give you my phone # so i can take to you. pabowhunter@gmail.com