Need a few answers for some simple questions
#1
Need a few answers for some simple questions
I have a few minor upgrades planned in the next month that I could use some input and suggestions
1. Im gonna be driving my bump a bit in the winter (Mostly for snowmobiling trips) and I would like suggestions on any good tires that people like, Im willing to use the meatier A/T or a decent street/snow tire, nothing too expensive please, im cheap
2. Where does everyone go lately to buy 1970 grill inserts? Ive heard places are cheaping out and I dont want to dump my money into crappy China.
3. What does everyone use for front shocks?
All these questions for a little cosmetic improvement and driving improvement
1. Im gonna be driving my bump a bit in the winter (Mostly for snowmobiling trips) and I would like suggestions on any good tires that people like, Im willing to use the meatier A/T or a decent street/snow tire, nothing too expensive please, im cheap
2. Where does everyone go lately to buy 1970 grill inserts? Ive heard places are cheaping out and I dont want to dump my money into crappy China.
3. What does everyone use for front shocks?
All these questions for a little cosmetic improvement and driving improvement
#2
#3
But I do LOVE NPD
#4
1970 F100/350: Be aware that there are TWO different grille inserts, TWO different grille frames.
Early 1970's before serial number J30,001 use right (D0TZ-8150-B) and left (D0TZ-8151-A) specific grille inserts. The tabs in the grille frame for the left grille insert is different than...
Late 1970's from serial number J70,001 use the same right & left grille inserts, they're both actually right sides (D0TZ-8150-B), the same right side used in 1970 before serial number J70,001.
The tabs in the grille frame for the left is the same for the right.
1971/72's use a different grille frame than 1970. The grille inserts are right and left, specific to either 1971 or 1972.
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#6
It has been decades since I've seen these. But as I recall they were so stout They looked like they would take 2 Men and a boy to compress them.
Ford Autolite (then Motorcraft) part number C5TZ18124B. "Auto-Flex XD". Actually C5TZ18124B was replaced by C5TZ18124E. Then replaced by C6TZ18124V. but unless priced ridiculous I would try for the original number 1st.
65/71 F100/250...4X2
67/71 F350
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Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
Recently UpdatedPart Number:C5TZ-18124-BSellerennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts - View ProfileDescription:NOS** AUTOLITE SHOCK ABSORBER KITPhone800) 476-9653
Tell them you found it on RearCounter.comPrice:Request PricingEmail:Send Seller Email InquiryQuantity:3Location:Concord, North Carolina Map & Directions
Green Sales has 2 of the C6TZ18124V. Let me know which ones you buy. My Bump bonces like a buggy also.
(800) 543-4959
Ford Autolite (then Motorcraft) part number C5TZ18124B. "Auto-Flex XD". Actually C5TZ18124B was replaced by C5TZ18124E. Then replaced by C6TZ18124V. but unless priced ridiculous I would try for the original number 1st.
65/71 F100/250...4X2
67/71 F350
*
*
Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
Recently UpdatedPart Number:C5TZ-18124-BSellerennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts - View ProfileDescription:NOS** AUTOLITE SHOCK ABSORBER KITPhone800) 476-9653
Tell them you found it on RearCounter.comPrice:Request PricingEmail:Send Seller Email InquiryQuantity:3Location:Concord, North Carolina Map & Directions
Green Sales has 2 of the C6TZ18124V. Let me know which ones you buy. My Bump bonces like a buggy also.
(800) 543-4959
#7
Apologies for the late response again, life got busy. I will not be getting new shocks for the truck for a while but I did manage to get two new front tires, and the difference in ride quality put a huge smile on my face.
265/75R16, they fit great and are actually easier to turn the wheel when not moving than the old bias ply.
Question, do the T18s have gaskets with the input shaft? I have a leak starting that is dripping out of the bell housing and it's getting worse
265/75R16, they fit great and are actually easier to turn the wheel when not moving than the old bias ply.
Question, do the T18s have gaskets with the input shaft? I have a leak starting that is dripping out of the bell housing and it's getting worse
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#8
Since nobody apparently saw my previous question
Leak from the bellhousing, seems to be leakinf farther up as my clutch fork is also wet.
Hopefully you can see all the wet spots
The oil is black and has no smell, so that leaves engine oil out of the question. There is no definite leak area yet but it is getting everywhere, including lower radiator hose(somehow even though I rarely reverse in the truck)
Leak from the bellhousing, seems to be leakinf farther up as my clutch fork is also wet.
Hopefully you can see all the wet spots
The oil is black and has no smell, so that leaves engine oil out of the question. There is no definite leak area yet but it is getting everywhere, including lower radiator hose(somehow even though I rarely reverse in the truck)
#9
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#11
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I'd look for a tranny vent make sure it's not caked over with dirt or dust that may cause the gear oil to be pushed pass the bearing retainer seal on the input shaft as the oil heats up.
Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.
If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.
Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"
If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.
If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.
Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"
If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
#12
I'd look for a tranny vent make sure it's not caked over with dirt or dust that may cause the gear oil to be pushed pass the bearing retainer seal on the input shaft as the oil heats up.
Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.
If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.
Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"
If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.
If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.
Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"
If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
#14