1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Need a few answers for some simple questions

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Old 09-27-2016, 01:30 PM
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Need a few answers for some simple questions

I have a few minor upgrades planned in the next month that I could use some input and suggestions
1. Im gonna be driving my bump a bit in the winter (Mostly for snowmobiling trips) and I would like suggestions on any good tires that people like, Im willing to use the meatier A/T or a decent street/snow tire, nothing too expensive please, im cheap
2. Where does everyone go lately to buy 1970 grill inserts? Ive heard places are cheaping out and I dont want to dump my money into crappy China.
3. What does everyone use for front shocks?
All these questions for a little cosmetic improvement and driving improvement
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:43 PM
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1. No particular recommendation.

2. I'd hit up National Parts Depot. Reasonable shipping costs and a great selection of other parts.

3. Monroe Gas Magnums. Very reasonably priced. Visit Shockwarehouse.com.... or National Parts Depot!
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
1. No particular recommendation.

2. I'd hit up National Parts Depot. Reasonable shipping costs and a great selection of other parts.

3. Monroe Gas Magnums. Very reasonably priced. Visit Shockwarehouse.com.... or National Parts Depot!
I bought the magnums for the front and It still allows my truck to bounce, so Im thinking about spending a little more and getting some firmer shocks.
But I do LOVE NPD
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 70FE250
Where does everyone go lately to buy 1970 grill inserts? I've heard places are cheaping out and I don't want to dump my money into crappy China.
AFAIK, all the reproduction grille inserts are made in China. The quality can vary wildly, with LMC being the worst.

1970 F100/350: Be aware that there are TWO different grille inserts, TWO different grille frames.

Early 1970's before serial number J30,001 use right (D0TZ-8150-B) and left (D0TZ-8151-A) specific grille inserts. The tabs in the grille frame for the left grille insert is different than...

Late 1970's from serial number J70,001 use the same right & left grille inserts, they're both actually right sides (D0TZ-8150-B), the same right side used in 1970 before serial number J70,001.

The tabs in the grille frame for the left is the same for the right.

1971/72's use a different grille frame than 1970. The grille inserts are right and left, specific to either 1971 or 1972.
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 70FE250
I bought the magnums for the front and It still allows my truck to bounce, so Im thinking about spending a little more and getting some firmer shocks.
But I do LOVE NPD
I have Bilsteins on the front of my 70.
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:55 PM
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It has been decades since I've seen these. But as I recall they were so stout They looked like they would take 2 Men and a boy to compress them.


Ford Autolite (then Motorcraft) part number C5TZ18124B. "Auto-Flex XD". Actually C5TZ18124B was replaced by C5TZ18124E. Then replaced by C6TZ18124V. but unless priced ridiculous I would try for the original number 1st.
65/71 F100/250...4X2
67/71 F350
*
*
Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts

Recently UpdatedPart Number:C5TZ-18124-BSellerennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts - View ProfileDescription:NOS** AUTOLITE SHOCK ABSORBER KITPhone800) 476-9653
Tell them you found it on RearCounter.comPrice:Request PricingEmail:Send Seller Email InquiryQuantity:3Location:Concord, North Carolina Map & Directions






Green Sales has 2 of the C6TZ18124V. Let me know which ones you buy. My Bump bonces like a buggy also.

(800) 543-4959
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:20 PM
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Apologies for the late response again, life got busy. I will not be getting new shocks for the truck for a while but I did manage to get two new front tires, and the difference in ride quality put a huge smile on my face.
265/75R16, they fit great and are actually easier to turn the wheel when not moving than the old bias ply.

Question, do the T18s have gaskets with the input shaft? I have a leak starting that is dripping out of the bell housing and it's getting worse
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:17 PM
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Since nobody apparently saw my previous question


Leak from the bellhousing, seems to be leakinf farther up as my clutch fork is also wet.



Hopefully you can see all the wet spots
The oil is black and has no smell, so that leaves engine oil out of the question. There is no definite leak area yet but it is getting everywhere, including lower radiator hose(somehow even though I rarely reverse in the truck)
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:31 PM
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Leaking gear oil/manual trans lube would have a sulphur smell.

I bet that's engine oil leaking past the rear main... Remove the flywheel cover... it's held on by four bolts.
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Leaking gear oil/manual trans lube would have a sulphur smell.

I bet that's engine oil leaking past the rear main... Remove the flywheel cover... it's held on by four bolts.
My issue is it is not the color/smell/consistency of my engine oil
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:54 AM
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I'd look for a tranny vent make sure it's not caked over with dirt or dust that may cause the gear oil to be pushed pass the bearing retainer seal on the input shaft as the oil heats up.

Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.

If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.

Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"

If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by orich
I'd look for a tranny vent make sure it's not caked over with dirt or dust that may cause the gear oil to be pushed pass the bearing retainer seal on the input shaft as the oil heats up.

Dripping oil NO "smell" hmm may be your a smoker as that would be the reason.

If it's Gear lube the better check if it's get low, should have a strong smell if it's 80-90wt.
The np 435's used 50wt. but some guys used racing 50-60 wt. motor oil that was not at every auto parts store. may not smell.

Seconds best was commonly used is 80-90wts gear oil "smells"

If it's engine oil then possibly your PCV system is starting to become plugged up if it's venting pass the front & or rear main crank seals?
Orich.
Not a smoker but a chewer, so my taste is off LOL. But this oil has no similarities to my engine oil as i just changed it 200 miles ago . Yet doesn't smell, I'll be pulling flywheel cover off later while I replace exhaust donut
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 70FE250
Not a smoker but a chewer, so my taste is off LOL. But this oil has no similarities to my engine oil as i just changed it 200 miles ago . Yet doesn't smell, I'll be mopulling flywheel cover off later while I replace exhaust donut
Cope, Skoal long cut, Kodiak, or other?
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:40 PM
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He said "chewer" instead of dipper. I take that to mean Red Man, Levi-Garrett or something like that.

I dipped some Skoal once and turned about 15 shades of green from it. .....never again after that for me.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:58 PM
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Ol skool days you could always tell who chews or dipped by the drivers side of their vehicles. Proof of no spit can!!

Orich
 


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