Theft Deterrence for Dents
#16
I think a dual fuel tank selector valve would be good. Just install the switch somewhere hidden under the dash. Set it up to draw air when you flip the switch and park the truck. Then when somebody manages to start your truck it'll only get a couple hundred feet until it stalls in the middle of the road. I imagine most thieves would run away then.
#17
#18
Most timest truck can be found in my driveway with the doors unlocked and they keys in the ignition. Unless I'm in a bad area out of town then I lock the doors and take keys with me.
However....
They tried to get into the truck with pry bar and failed, so they resorted to attempting to steal my battery (also failed) and steal my fog lights (yet again failed). Can't prevent stupid, but when the average "thug" can't even take off a frickin fog light I normally don't worry about my truck getting jacked if I leave her alone on the street all locked up.
If I was going to install an ignition cut out, I'd probably just hide a switch under the dash or rig some other switch in the dash to be my cut out.
However....
They tried to get into the truck with pry bar and failed, so they resorted to attempting to steal my battery (also failed) and steal my fog lights (yet again failed). Can't prevent stupid, but when the average "thug" can't even take off a frickin fog light I normally don't worry about my truck getting jacked if I leave her alone on the street all locked up.
If I was going to install an ignition cut out, I'd probably just hide a switch under the dash or rig some other switch in the dash to be my cut out.
#19
Not a dent but a buddy of mine had to replace the ignition switch in his Austin Healey 3000. Austin used a push button start and the switch he used had a spring return start. He kept the button and wired the horn to the start position on the switch.
Only the more clever thieves could steal that car even with the key in hand.
Only the more clever thieves could steal that car even with the key in hand.
#21
#24
1) Loud dog
2) Loud gun (careful with the caliber/gauge to avoid damage to paint)
3) Kill switches - wire the solenoid activation wire through a switch. I have seen people use the floorboard high beam switch, install hidden switches, install brand-correct switches in plain sight (I saved a Jetta once by wiring through a VW fog light switch visible on the dash - what thief wants to turn on bright lights?) brake light switches installed so you have to hit the clutch or brakes, brake light switches installed so you have to open or close the ashtray, and push buttons installed in plain sight so you have to push the button AND turn the key. Oh, and here's always wiring through a bank of 4-5 obvious switches which have to be thrown in the correct pattern.
4) I am reliably informed that thieves routinely carry coil wires so if you pull yours, they just replace it. One cure for that is to make a dummy coil wire- next time you replace your wires, carefully slit the coil wire lengthwise, remove a section of core, then super-glue the wire back together. You now have a normal looking wire that is electrically inert.
2) Loud gun (careful with the caliber/gauge to avoid damage to paint)
3) Kill switches - wire the solenoid activation wire through a switch. I have seen people use the floorboard high beam switch, install hidden switches, install brand-correct switches in plain sight (I saved a Jetta once by wiring through a VW fog light switch visible on the dash - what thief wants to turn on bright lights?) brake light switches installed so you have to hit the clutch or brakes, brake light switches installed so you have to open or close the ashtray, and push buttons installed in plain sight so you have to push the button AND turn the key. Oh, and here's always wiring through a bank of 4-5 obvious switches which have to be thrown in the correct pattern.
4) I am reliably informed that thieves routinely carry coil wires so if you pull yours, they just replace it. One cure for that is to make a dummy coil wire- next time you replace your wires, carefully slit the coil wire lengthwise, remove a section of core, then super-glue the wire back together. You now have a normal looking wire that is electrically inert.
#27
I've got the beds enclosed by either a shell or tonneau to conceal anything that might be visible. I also have the windows tinted now. I always keep them locked, and all trucks have their own Club
My brother-in-law in Mexico taught me to install the club upside down, so you can't use a slide-hammer on the lock
All the trucks now have electric fuel pumps wired to an auxiliary fuse block under the dash. Easy enough to pull the fuse...
Nothing impossible to overcome, but any deterrent helps
My brother-in-law in Mexico taught me to install the club upside down, so you can't use a slide-hammer on the lock
All the trucks now have electric fuel pumps wired to an auxiliary fuse block under the dash. Easy enough to pull the fuse...
Nothing impossible to overcome, but any deterrent helps
#28
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
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I leave the windows OPEN and the keys in the ignition in some pretty crappy neighborhoods. On purpose.
Most scum cant drive stick. Those that do are confused by the transfer case being in neutral......and scared ****less of a lifted truck on '33's with no exhaust.
Helps to have lot of dead animal blood and parts all over your truck, "IDGAF" dents, primer and truly offensive bumper stickers that state to the truly low class thieves: " A CRAZY VETERAN WITH MORE WEAPONS AND VIOLENCE THAN COMMON SENSE IS BEGGING YOU TO TRY TO STEAL THIS TRUCK
It works.
Most scum cant drive stick. Those that do are confused by the transfer case being in neutral......and scared ****less of a lifted truck on '33's with no exhaust.
Helps to have lot of dead animal blood and parts all over your truck, "IDGAF" dents, primer and truly offensive bumper stickers that state to the truly low class thieves: " A CRAZY VETERAN WITH MORE WEAPONS AND VIOLENCE THAN COMMON SENSE IS BEGGING YOU TO TRY TO STEAL THIS TRUCK
It works.
#29
Go easy! See avatar.
I replace the up-down type door locks that have little notch or flat head on them with something that won't catch easily on a coathanger or piece of flat nylon packing tape.
A lockout for ignition or fuel is a good idea, I've got a fuel cutoff for my Valiant. It needed a switch to go between LPG and petrol anyway, only one step further.
A highly visible steering lock is a good idea but can easily be foiled if they are professional. I do like the transmission lockout idea, even the bolt to lock it in first or leaving the transfer in neutral.
Either way, makes for a truck that is at least a bit harder to steal, and unless it is something super rare then the time and trouble wont be worth it for them and at worst you will have a jimmied lock or broken window to deal with.
- boingk
I replace the up-down type door locks that have little notch or flat head on them with something that won't catch easily on a coathanger or piece of flat nylon packing tape.
A lockout for ignition or fuel is a good idea, I've got a fuel cutoff for my Valiant. It needed a switch to go between LPG and petrol anyway, only one step further.
A highly visible steering lock is a good idea but can easily be foiled if they are professional. I do like the transmission lockout idea, even the bolt to lock it in first or leaving the transfer in neutral.
Either way, makes for a truck that is at least a bit harder to steal, and unless it is something super rare then the time and trouble wont be worth it for them and at worst you will have a jimmied lock or broken window to deal with.
- boingk
#30
On my auto trucks I just use a club on the wheel, and maybe pull some ignition component if the area seem that sketchy.
The truck with the 3 on the tree I don't worry about one bit, few people can drive a manual these days, much less figure why a truck with a column shifter would have a clutch.
The truck with the 3 on the tree I don't worry about one bit, few people can drive a manual these days, much less figure why a truck with a column shifter would have a clutch.