Do you guys know if the tie rod set up off a 67 f250 4x4 will swap over to a 76 disc brake 4x4 front end? I don't know if the taper is the same.

 

I don't have a 4-wheel drive but I would highly suspect the tie rod stud on a '67 would probably be smaller than one on a '76. There's also the difference in a drum brake front end vs. a disc brake front end and it matters what the GVW of the donor truck is and if it has single piston front calipers or whether it has twin piston front calipers, as to what tie rod is correct since the part numbers do differ.

The simple remedy is likely to just get new steering linkages for a '76 F250 4x4 and install them.

 

Thanks Ultra.
I am swapping in a 76 disc front end into my 67 highboy. The 67 has replaceable tie rod ends on each end and the 76 has a short end a long end. The 76 tie rod set up that I have is in good shape but didn't know if the older set up would work. Not sure my dual steering stabilizer will work with the 76.

 

The 76 has discs and the steering arms hAve more meat on them for the thicker tapered shanks of the tie rods.

 

If your going to go manual steering like I did it seems the tie rod ends are about the same. But the 76 tie rod is beefier to handle the power slave unit in the middle of it.

The tie rod taper bolt in end should be the same, as the Drag link is the perfect fit being it is 16"3/16 long same as the 76 PA Units so no problem using your stock one.

If your 67 tie rod is better then the 76 then why not use it it's all manual.

Orich

 

The reason for the swap is for my dual steering stabilizer. With my 67 set up it has the replaceable ends with the long tube in the middle. The 76 set up has the short coupler on the driver side with a short tie rod and the passenger side has the long tie rod. I'm not sure my dual stabilizer will work with the 76 set up with the coupler about where the clamp goes on.

 

Ford's taper is generally 7.15° across the board but the tie rod's thickness is what may be the issue.

I had to ream my drummed D44 so it could use the later tie rods. This is on a half-ton 4x4 but I believe it would also apply to a 3/4-ton.

 

I checked my 70 CC with the 44HD and my Sept. 76 CC's 60LP, and they have the same thickness of tie-rod at 1" with the steering knuckles having the same 1" thickness. Both tie-rods look exactly the same as my late 76 has the PA.

 

Thanks Rich! I'm thinking it will work.

 

Don't forget to check the axle toe in once the other tie rod is installed.
It's 5/32ths.
Orich

 

Is there an easy way to check it or should I just have it set at a shop?

 

I first used my two jack stands to setup at the center line of the front axles front tire on the inside to rest a sliding small pole that, I can place my sliding pole on center level to be placed in the front an the back side of the axle front axle.

This will be to put my sliding two piece rod to butt up on each inside side to side of the tires.

So you can adjust the tie rod until the front an back side measures the same on the rod you made up as a measuring tool ZERO toe in..

I made up a small OD size of a small straight metal square tube like 3/8" ID and then yet a smaller 1/4" inner metal rod. Or something like a curtain rods each say 3' long.

Once both sides of the tire measurements are even, this is where the front side of your tires is reduced by adjusting the Tie Rod in by 5/32".

Then when front & rear side of tires measurement are the same= (0) Zero toe in.

By adjusting the tie rod by in reducing 5/32th gives your axle the correct toe in. toe in.

If this is to confusing may be go to youtude for a better understanding.

Orich

 

On a straight axle 4x4, toe can be set with the front axle on jack stands using two tape measures.

An a 2wd, the vehicle's weight needs to be laden on the suspension for accuracy.

 

HIO, what are you measuring from to get a good measurement?

 

Do you understand the use of "toe plates"? Google it and view a couple of YT videos. You'll be basically doing the same thing....

I don't have a set of toe plates so I cobbled together my own.... With the tires removed I installed a length of aluminum channel to each face of the rotors, each extending beyond the rotor about six or seven inches.... Then I measured and put marks the same distance in front and behind the axle centerline... The actual measurement is irrelevant.. they just need to be the same and enough to clear the tie rod. Do that to both sides and mark 'em. Using two tape measures, measure the differences between the right and left side, in front of and behind the rotor. Adjust the tie rod to your spec... someone said 5/32-inch of toe-in. I use 1/8-inch toe-in. An extra set of hands to hold the tape measures is helpful.. I usually work alone so taped everything in place.

With tires on, some use marks on the tire tread but I like to be more accurate.