Good day gentlemen. I recently found out one cold morning in California that my temperature blend control wouldn't produce any warm air…. My truck is a 2006, Ford F250 Super Duty 6.0 Power Stroke Turbo Diesel. It's a rear wheel drive truck. The only power options on this truck are Windows & Lock. I viewed the "Factory Air Tech Tips" to trouble shoot the system. http://www.factoryairtemp.com/Upload...20ACTUATOR.PDF

I have no continuity between pin#6 and #4. There is continuity between pin #6 and #3. Voltage was present between pin #7 and #8. I didn't try the "varying continuity" between pin #3 & #4, because I assume if continuity doesn't exist between pin #6 & #4, it's not gonna happen between #3 & #4. I initially purchased a new "blend door actuator, and when I tried it, it too was non functional when I turned my temp control to hot. All other functions of the HVAC controls(fan speed, heat, defog, vent) function correctly with the exception of the temperature blend.
Have any of you run into this problem?
If so, might you fellas be so kind as to offer some advice or suggestions?

Thanks for any insight or help you might have.

 

1. Did you verify the heater control valve is opening and allowing hot coolant to flow through the heater core before embarking on that adventure?

2. Did you check for a stripped heater temp control ****?

The tech tip you cited has a serious error in that it instructs on to check for "continuity" of the potentiometer. This is wrong as you should be checking for the resistance of the potentiometer. Check for "continuity" usually means using either a specific meter function or using a meter range whose maximum is below the resistance value of the pot's main resistor. Either will create a false result because the value is over range for the item to be tested.

Repeat the test with your meter on a setting that will resolve up to 100k Ohms to determine the actual value of the pot, then actually do the test while varying the control.

 

Thank you for responding projectSHO89.
I checked the "in" and "out" hoses to the heater core & both were hot. Correct me if I'm wrong but, I assumed that there is flow via the "heater control valve" to the heater core based on that simple check. I actually disassembled the heater "blend" **** and inspected the interior for any obvious flaws. Looked perfect and not stripped. I checked continuity with the "continuity" setting on my particular meter which has an audible tone if continuity is present. My particular meter has settings of 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2M and 20M to check ohms. For clarity, I'm assuming I'll use the 200k setting on my meter to perform the test you're suggesting in determining the value of the pot. The "Tech Tip" was the only info I could find regarding trouble shooting my particular issue. As to the Tech Tip flaws…, I'm no expert and have limited knowledge working on trying to resolve or, get to the bottom of my "hot/cold blend" issue…. I'll perform the test with your suggestion. Thanks again for your response. I truly appreciate it.

 

Get to the blend door actuator under the dash and verify its actually moving the blend door. Check the actuator motors connector, move it around. The door could be bound up with debris or (and more likely) the actuator motor is shot. $30 part couple of hours of your time or $1000+ at the stealership as they will tell you the whole dash needs to come out which is TOTAL BS.

Search my name here for an 08s blend door R&R procedure. Yours could be similar?

 

Thanks for the post droldsmorland.
The first thing I did was check the actuator.
I removed it and plugged it in, and the actuator arm that engages the blend door, didn't function when I had it plugged in and hanging there as I moved the temp **** from cold to hot. I ordered a new on on line and it too didn't work…! Major disappointment, as I was hoping for a quick repair. I believe I may have a wiring issue because I have no continuity between pin #6 and pin #4 on the actuator plug. I do have continuity on pin #3 and pin #6 which is I believe the cold setting. If I could trace pin #4 wire, which is red with a silver stripe, I'd just run a new wire from point to point and perhaps bypass the potential short if in fact thats my problem….. I'm reluctant to go to the dealership because they always rob folks blind. I know I can easily fix whatever the problem is…, I just need to determine exactly what the problem is….

 

Can you fix your font so it's actually readable?