MAF Conversion what route to go?
#1
MAF Conversion what route to go?
Hey FTE Family,
Today I went to my local Pull-A-Part yard looking for misc. parts. I noticed in the distance a 1996 E250 (Fresh Kill). I popped the hood and almost fainted, it was a perfectly untouched 351w MAF. I put the wife on guard with orders to shoot on sight while I ran to the shop. I asked the guy how much for the harness intake MAF sensor and computer to which he replied $75
I might have gotten a little over excited but I pulled everything out. I took the complete engine harness and then I found my first dilemma. I didn't want to take more than I needed because that just screws others over but I didn't want to miss something. I didn't want the body harness and I didn't know where to separate the engine from body harness. I then went to the ECM connector and cut the wires leading to the cab leaving myself enough to work with. (See image Below)
The set up is a 1989 F150 351W mild build running on a 460 ECM with a 2600 stall AOD with 4r70w internals. I have been reading around but every case is different. Do I swap to the ODBII with the new harness and new ECM connector? or.. Do I mutilate my new harness and get another ECM for the 60pin and go that route which would you guys do?
If you would retain the 60pin then what is the best ECM for my case.
If you would use all the new stuff what else will I need for the OBDII.
Thank you all in advance.
Today I went to my local Pull-A-Part yard looking for misc. parts. I noticed in the distance a 1996 E250 (Fresh Kill). I popped the hood and almost fainted, it was a perfectly untouched 351w MAF. I put the wife on guard with orders to shoot on sight while I ran to the shop. I asked the guy how much for the harness intake MAF sensor and computer to which he replied $75
I might have gotten a little over excited but I pulled everything out. I took the complete engine harness and then I found my first dilemma. I didn't want to take more than I needed because that just screws others over but I didn't want to miss something. I didn't want the body harness and I didn't know where to separate the engine from body harness. I then went to the ECM connector and cut the wires leading to the cab leaving myself enough to work with. (See image Below)
The set up is a 1989 F150 351W mild build running on a 460 ECM with a 2600 stall AOD with 4r70w internals. I have been reading around but every case is different. Do I swap to the ODBII with the new harness and new ECM connector? or.. Do I mutilate my new harness and get another ECM for the 60pin and go that route which would you guys do?
If you would retain the 60pin then what is the best ECM for my case.
If you would use all the new stuff what else will I need for the OBDII.
Thank you all in advance.
#2
Join Date: Jun 2006
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You need the DPFE EGR system, timing cover, crank balancer and sensor from that motor in the van, and the dash cluster for the PSOM, and the E4OD transmission from the van.
#3
That's what I figured.
The setup runs but not perfect between the aloy heads and the edelbrock intake plus cam the idle and cold start are very picky. The Rig only gets about 9mpg and will slowly foul plugs.
I believe the MAF conversion is the right direction to go with the setup. Full throttle is a beast and a half but 730rpm to 2000rpm is very weak for the setup.
I will be picking up a computer for the Mustang then and modifying my harness with the OBDII harness IE. Injectors and Maf wires other than that I believe I should have everything I need. Thanks so much.
The setup runs but not perfect between the aloy heads and the edelbrock intake plus cam the idle and cold start are very picky. The Rig only gets about 9mpg and will slowly foul plugs.
I believe the MAF conversion is the right direction to go with the setup. Full throttle is a beast and a half but 730rpm to 2000rpm is very weak for the setup.
I will be picking up a computer for the Mustang then and modifying my harness with the OBDII harness IE. Injectors and Maf wires other than that I believe I should have everything I need. Thanks so much.
#4
The time has come for the swap and I can't wait to see the difference. I have one issue, The Computer I am looking for the A9P is not available anywhere shy of $400 I can get the A9l for almost free. I have done research after research and found that the harness of an Automatic MUSTANG has a few wires switched around which will burn up the A9L computer. Does my TRUCK fall under the same issue and if so can some one put it "BIG BIRD, COOKIE MONSTER" style on what wires to switch around. The truck has of course only one O2 sensor so do I need to worry about the A9L computer being fried?
#5
I had not heard of an issue in regards of the PCM burning up due to difference between the automatic and standard PCM's. The only exception I have found is the O2 sensor circuit.
Some were 3-wire and others 4 wire. I do know that you can burn a trace if you don't wire the O2 sensor correctly.
I have a C3W PCM that had that trace burned and I contribute that to a previous owner not wiring the O2 sensor correctly for 3 wire. I took it to an electronics shop and they repaired the trace.
I'm interested in this as I have another A9P, A9L, and a C3W MAF PCM'S.
Some were 3-wire and others 4 wire. I do know that you can burn a trace if you don't wire the O2 sensor correctly.
I have a C3W PCM that had that trace burned and I contribute that to a previous owner not wiring the O2 sensor correctly for 3 wire. I took it to an electronics shop and they repaired the trace.
I'm interested in this as I have another A9P, A9L, and a C3W MAF PCM'S.
#6
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I have had both A9P and A9L variants in my '90 with no problem and no wiring changes. The best way to deal with the O2 sensors initially is to just Y the single sensor into both PCM inputs, once you get a tuner you can play with dual sensors and see how much of a difference it doesn't make.
#7
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#8
#9
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Are you using 24lb injectors with that 7.5 PCM?
#10
Yeah I'm using the 24lb with the 7.5 PCM. I have been having issues with running really rich and fouling plugs after about two weeks. If it's at idle the truck will idle fine then stumble to about 5oorpm and you will get a small amount of black smoke then idles back to normal and no smoke this will happen about 5 times in a minute. I believe there is something wrong with the computer because some days it idles fine and no issue then others I'll get missing around 3500rpm and bad Idle. I'm hoping to fix all of this with the MAF conversion because I have either replaced or checked everything else.
#12
I have not. The PCM is under warranty and I am gonna get my money back. If I open it then the warranty is done I do believe it's the PCM I keep blowing PIP and TFI one each in a month.
#14
#15
I know this is an old thread but I currently have a 1992 f250 7.5 5 speed and I installed a larger cam than I should have and speed density wasn't working for me. I figured what the hell and pulled (unplugged no cutting) maf intake all of the wiring and ecm, from ecm to battery (harness for headlights, fuse box, everything) out of a 1995 ford f150 2wheel drive with a 5.0. I removed all of mine and plugged it all in and walla! It works! Still needs some tuning but it runs way better and doesn't over load at an idle. I'm not sure what computer it had in it but everything works fine and I figured I'd pass this info on to the next guy. Only had to splice one plug in and that was to the alternator by the battery.