So tackled a water pump change. Had lots of crystalization around the gaskets, heater pipe and temp sensor. Weep hole was weeping and the T'stat cover was leaking too, pics here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-not-sure.html

I ordered from Clay at RiffRaff:

Water pump
Elbow
T'stat
New T'stat cover

I'm definitely a shade tree mechanic and the job took me about 2 hours so I was stoked.

Only additional tool I bought was a rachet strap $3 and 1" 7/8 wrench $20.

Removed bolts on expansion bottle, small hose (tucked this under wheel change tools) and twisted bottle to passenger side out of the way.

Dropped coolant via radiator drain

Removed top driver side radiator hose, serpentine belt, lower radiator hose.

I then put a ratchet strap from these plates on each side of the chassis under the engine


I took the strap from the passenger side underneath the water pump pulley over the top the pulley and then to the driver side plate and tightened it up. Put on the 1" 7/8 wrench couple of taps and the fan nut spun loose.

Pulled fan and fan shroud.

Disconnected the heater hose, temp sensor and cable tidy for cam sensor.

As others have stated bolts are different lengths. I started at 1 o'clock on the pump undid all the bolts and lined them up on the gutter under the wiper blades. Eased pump off and removed.

Worked on the truck tailgate to assemble new pump to look like old one. Aluminium billet t'stat housing from Rifraff comes with new allen key style bolts, only bolts to rebuild pump that I re-used were the ones for the elbow
Used RTV grey on t'stat housing (to be safe), pipe elbow and water temp sensor threads. Re-used the pulley

Rebuild was the reverse process without the ratchet strap. Span the pump pulley onto the fan to start threading - was easier than turning the fan.

Only thing I couldn't do was get the block drains out to completely get rid of the coolant. I have done the oil cooler and new radiator at separate times in the last 12 months and didn't do block drains then either for the same reasons - so having filled with ELC each time I figured its probably pretty well flushed. I added 4 gallons of ELC and then topped off with distilled so I'm probably over a 50/50 mix in favour of the ELC.

I should have taken pictures but was wanting to get cracking on - sorry

One note - the top radiator hose (goes around the belt) I must have put on slightly twisted, biased towards the front of the engine and it was just enough from the belt to start rubbing through it. I caught it though and changed it out next day.

 

Thanks for the write up! I award you 5 points! But deduct 3 for the worst truck **** evah.

A new pump is on the horizon for me so this helps. I'm liking the ratchet strap method to hold the pump steady. No renting a clapped out tool.

I've seen two varieties of lower hose; a longer "bendier" hose and the shorter hose with bolt on elbow. Does the version simply depend on which pump you get? Btw, what brand was the pump?

The top hose wants a large zip tie strapping it to the niche there, keep it out of harm's way.

 

Clay's water pump is OEM just without the price tag and no ford stamp on it.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/water-pump-oem-7-3l/

As for the hoses, I just replaced like for like and I had the elbow to start. I don't have enough knowledge to guide you on that - maybe one of the more experienced guys can comment.

 

I black tie wrapped the top hose to bracket after my belt rubbed it as well.