I've switched to an Edelbrock 1406 carb. The PCV vacuum port is on the front and is for 3/8" hose. Does anyone know a proper way to get a longer PCV hose from the 1/2" PCV in the valve cover cap, to the carb?

 

One option is to reverse the PCV system with the intake breather cap on the rear passenger side and the actual PCV valve on the driver's side.

The other is to spec a formed hose with two 90-degree bends. I wanna say Autozone's "Help!" section has such a hose or at least close to it.

 

The way I did it, was stick a PCV valve with a 3/8 connection straight into the passenger VC, and use a piece of bulk hose cut to length. Cheap, easy, and very clean.

 

I glanced back and saw you have a recently built 390...correct? You could just put a cap on the PCV port in the carb and replace the PCV valve with another valve cover breather. No need for a PCV valve unless you have some emission requirements. If you have a 180 or 195 thermostat it should get warm enough to drive off any moisture or what ever little blow by gas you get. I run 4 valve cover breathers on my FE...one on each end of the valve covers. No real need for a PCV valve on and old car/truck.

 

I disagree with the above. The purpose of the PCV system is to evacuate crank case gases and particulates and will keep the engine and oil cleaner for a longer amount of time.

A race engine doesn't need an PCV because they are a maintained, oil changes/internal adjustments, more frequently.

 

I am thinking my best option now, with the new standard pcv I bought, is to buy pcv hose to fit the valve, and pcv hose to fit the carb, then link them with some hose reducer fitting.

 

"Keep it simple" is always a good option.

 

Go to oreillys and ask for part number PCV178. It will solve your problem....

 

Barbed hose fittings from 1/2 down to 3/8 are an easy way to make it work.

Just be careful. I used to think the same as HIO Silver and that PCV valves were a must, but be careful. The wrong valve or poor set up will wreck your engine way, way faster than not having a valve. I recommend installing a vacuum trap between your PCV valve and carb at least until you're confident you're not sucking oil mist. Your rockers will turn the oil to mist starting around 2200 rpms so if you run the freeway a lot (like I do at 2500 or more rpms) you'll make lots of mist. Oil mist in the combustion chambers can cause detonation...especially under load and with today's gas quality. Or you might "only" gum your rings so they can't do their job.

Use PCV if you must, but it ain't as simple as grabbing a valve. Car makers have time and experience to dial one in to the application. Wagner has an adjustable (kinda pricey) valve that might make selection easier. Or you might get lucky and find the right PCV valve first try. Do you feel lucky ?

 

So the plot thickens... I ordered the stock replacement PCV from Autozone.

 

A PCV valve is just a check valve. Shoot some carb cleaner through it when ya change your engine oil and it should be good to go for years.

The next time the passenger valve is off, verify the PCV valve area is shrouded... the shrouding/shielding minimizes the amount of oil mist evacuated from the crank case....

 

X2 on this.

 

It is more than just a check valve; it's weighted for the particular engine. If you change things like carb, intake, and cam then you often need a different PCV valve... It's not a one size fits all...that's why Wagner made an adjustable valve. Valve cover baffles help, but are not always good enough.

They are actually only needed in a modern emission controlled car/ truck and even then they can break and cause problems.

The wrong PCV valve is worse than none at all in a carbureted FE. It's a simple matter to verify no mist is passing the PCB with a trap. I hate to see the OP ruin a fresh engine over a PCV valve.

 

The weight is controlled by vacuum. Since MOST engines pull roughly the same amount of vacuum at idle (20" or so) the PCV valve really is just a check valve. The size of the engine, the carb, intake, exhaust, compression ratio, have no affect on the PCV valve. Only vacuum controls the valve.

 

Idle is not when oil mist is created. You can putter around town and never see a problem. You can drag race and never see a problem. Or if you keep your FE bone stock you may never see an issue. Do hours of 2500+ rpm with a modified FE and you might see what I'm talking about. I thought the same as you until I learned better by experience.