Here i am with more brake issues involving hot drums and squealing (opposite sides, just my luck)
1. The rear passenger side is always hotter compared to other 3 after a few days of driving, loosen the adjuster a few clicks and it's fine for a few days with no brake pedal travel differences, only to start getting hot gradually
2. Rear driver side is squealing something awful, it only happens about half the range of pedal travel, light braking and really hard it's not there and doesn't affect braking ability
It started up again today and after I adjusted the drum, squeaking was less but it made a nasty grinding sound in reverse, switch to 1st gear and it's gone, back to reverse, gone. Loosened up two more clicks and squealing gone, for now till it comes back in 2 days

So am I looking at needing new drums for the rear? These issues are really messing me up and confusing me.

 

I'd pull the drum for an inspection something wrong if you have not noticed.

The adjuster cable may have gotten damaged by slipping out of it's arch bracket.
and eating up the drum. Or a part of the adjuster has slipped out of it slot.
I would stop driving it un till you get that fixed.
Orich

 

Twas planning on it, just wanted some suggestions of problems so I don't sit there staring at it tomorrow playing with myself

 

Are your shoes glazed? Yeah, sounds like some things are not sitting right.

Your best bet is to pull each drum, snap a pic and post it up. What looks right to us guys that dont know much, can be an easy fix for most of these experienced folks here.

You shouldnt have to adjust or readjust your brakes daily, fix it once and fix it right.

Stop by an auto parts and buy a hardware kit for like $8 each wheel. That way you can replace it right then and there while it is fresh.

Play with yourself as needed, man

 

Haha
Everything is new on all brakes except drums, I'm hoping they're not glazed, I'll be pulling off driver drum in the morning as that's the squealer. The rear driver side that squeals isn't hot at all, it's adjusted properly but it still squeals unless I loosen the adjustment, which doesn't change the pedal travel. But the passenger side that keeps getting too hot, could I be looking at greasing contact points being me issue?

 

Noob question, but for drum replacement, I have to press the hub our correct?

 

I dont think that is your issue.
Have you done brakes before? Serious question.

Reason that I ask is on my 79, I took pics, replaced the shoes and drums, then referred to the pics the put them back, they looked perfect. Turns out that the previous owner had swapped hardware from side to side, so I replaced them the same wrong way that he did.

I also dont know about these years, but the dents have self adjusters on them. When you go in reverse, it adjusts. It is automatic.

The good thing, something is wrong. The better news, there is only one way that everything goes together.

So if you think about it, a repair requires something broken and a solution, so you are 50%!

 

You need to remove the bearings and seals, yes.

 

Yes I have before and the rear brakes were done about two days apart due to not being able to get the rear driver side off. Everything is in correct.
I'm narrowed down to two issues 1. Drum is bad and glazed over. 2. There may be some crap left in that drum that keeps getting stuck in between contact points. Hopefully when the drum is pulled off tomorrow I'll have my answer

 

Here mine driver rear your's may have a little different springs and some hardware
Also the short shoe always goes forward long shoe on rears.
An notice the leaking cylinder.
Orich

 

I'll give you guys an update on what my brake issue is in about 11 hours but in the meantime, enjoy a picture of why you guys should make sure your jack stand is level. Avoided it falling on me by about 10 seconds. Aren't I lucky?

 

If I somehow got the shoes mixed up (which is dumb even for me) please come beat me with my own drum

 

When I work at an RV dealership in MT I was the low guy on the Totem Pole. So I got to do all the wheel bearing and brake jobs. Customers would bring in fifth wheels that they worked on- now the brakes (which we sold to them) didn't work. I must have switched at least 50 sets of leading and following brakes shoes around, the first year. It happens-A LOT. And like Jklnhyd said, if you don't notice it. You'll put them back on wrong -just like the last guy did!!

 

Working in dirt you'll need a jack stand base board wood piece of like 2x12x12. in my picture notice where I placed the tire.
Yup right under the spring for safety

My brother was crushed to death from his GTO falling on him.

Back in the 80's although he was up on crank.

It's always be safe or be sorry no matter what your doing in daily life.
Orich
.

 

Jack stands always made me nervous so I rarely use them. I prefer 6 inch thick by 8 inch wide solid wood blocks...under the tire unless the tires come off. If tires are off I cross stack the blocks under the frame or axle for no rocking in any direction.

I'm confused. I've done rear drums and discs including semi floating and full floating axles and never had to remove bearings and seals for a brake job. Some times the drum needs encouragement but aren't they made to be removed without pulling the axle? I always clean the drum/disc mating surfaces and apply a very thin layer of high temp grease to prevent stuck drum/discs.