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Hello Folks I am looking at rebuilding the front end of my 1970 F250 and am wanting to convert over to front disc brakes. is there a specific year of ford truck I should look for as the donner truck?
The only two parts that absolutely HAVE to come from a donor are the anchor brackets (the circular piece with two 'arms' that the caliper mounts to), and the dust shield. Everything else can be purchased new.
Oh, and the bracket for the proportioning valve if you choose to mount yours on top of the PS gear box like I did.
I would recommend that you purchase new or re-manufactured calipers that are '70 specific, because in 1972, after serial number M80,001 the internals of the calipers and the diameter of the brake line that attaches to the calipers changed. While dentside dual piston calipers will bolt up and work fine on your '70, if you ever need to rebuild the calipers or get a new caliper brake line, you will have to remember to get parts for a dentside caliper. Getting new calipers made for a '70 will make it easier to get the correct replacement parts.
Thanks for the honor of being included in your compilation, HIO!
The only two parts that absolutely HAVE to come from a donor are the anchor brackets (the circular piece with two 'arms' that the caliper mounts to), and the dust shield. Everything else can be purchased new.
Oh, and the bracket for the proportioning valve if you choose to mount yours on top of the PS gear box like I did.
I would recommend that you purchase new or re-manufactured calipers that are '70 specific, because in 1972, after serial number M80,001 the internals of the calipers and the diameter of the brake line that attaches to the calipers changed. While dentside dual piston calipers will bolt up and work fine on your '70, if you ever need to rebuild the calipers or get a new caliper brake line, you will have to remember to get parts for a dentside caliper. Getting new calipers made for a '70 will make it easier to get the correct replacement parts.
No problemo. You earned it by doing a well detailed and informative thread!
To the OP, here are a few pics of "early" and "late" F250 Bumpside discs.
Early version. Note the springs, and the cross-bolts guides for the disc pads:
Late version.
Early... note the brake hose goes straight into the caliper.
Late. The brake hose has a short section of hard line and is connected via a banjo bolt.
The assemblage of early Bump disc parts I have acquired for my '71 F250 from the donor:
This was the donor... a former USFWS truck.It also gave up it's custom tuck n roll headliner!! Btw, make sure you record the donor's VIN. You'll think you'll remember but you won't!! Take lots of pictures!
Yup. The version split occurs in 1972. Consecutive unit numbers up to and including M80,000 use the early version and M80,001 and after use the later version.
Yup. The version split occurs in 1972. Consecutive unit numbers up to and including M80,000 use the early version and M80,001 and after use the later version.
The problem is today, what calipers do 1968/72 F250 2WD's have, since there were FIVE different versions...and some of the originals have been replaced with rebuilt units.
Ford had multiple problems with these calipers, so to verify, the ID number stamped on the caliper must be known to get the correct hoses.
The 2B296 caliper locating pin was notorious for have its threaded portion snap off.
Pic: Look at 2B120. D2TZ-2B120-B was also used 1973/75 as was the caliper locating pin.
There were two different versions used in 1976: D6TZ-2B120-A before serial number A75,001 & D6TZ-2B120-B used from serial number A75,001 & 1977/79.
These calipers were a PITA back then and today...the situation is worse!
Are you dead set on using the period correct brake caliper assemblies on your truck? If not, it looks like the later model F250 front caliper assemblies would be a better way to go, IF the cross bolts are so problematic of snapping off(?).
I can't clearly see the cross bolt's heads in your photos to see if they have hash marks on them or if they are shouldered bolts. If they're grade-2 or grade-5 shouldered bolts, seems it would be easy enough to replace them with Allen head grade-8 shouldered bolts to eliminate any potential problems of the threaded ends from breaking off.
Are you dead set on using the period correct brake caliper assemblies on your truck? If not, it looks like the later model F250 front caliper assemblies would be a better way to go, IF the cross bolts are so problematic of snapping off(?).
I can't clearly see the cross bolt's heads in your photos to see if they have hash marks on them or if they are shouldered bolts. If they're grade-2 or grade-5 shouldered bolts, seems it would be easy enough to replace them with Allen head grade-8 shouldered bolts to eliminate any potential problems of the threaded ends from breaking off.
I have the parts already and will take a gander at the guide pins later. The bolts that actually hold the caliper together are rather beefy and doubt they snap... unless yer some sort of Neanderthal with the brawn of a gorilla and a peanut for a brain.
Are they really a problem? Or is it a case of overtightening? The guide pins only serve to guide the pads and tension mount for the anti-rattle springs...(that looks to be the function of them)
07-27-2016, 12:27 AM
