I have codes P0153 P0133 and I just want to drive this F truck into a lake and report it stolen.



Well, ok seriously.
I have a 2000 ranger with 70K miles. 4.0 Litre 6 cylinder automatic.
I know there are many threads about these codes but hopefully I can give clues as to what needs to be done before throwing money at parts and wasting time. This truck is a complete disgrace of rust underneath it, often requiring 5 hours of work to get one bolt off because the head chips off as rust flakes and needs grinding into a square and blowtorching etc...





I don't remember if I bought it with the check engine light on or off but it's been on for a couple years since I've had the truck and my inspection was due 2 months ago. I thought my harbor freight code reader could just delete the codes and then I'll pass inspection but it's not possible to trick their computer like that.


I originally had codes:
P1451 Evap Emessions Ctrl system vent Ctrl Cir
P0133 02 sensor Circuit Slow response bank 1 sensor 1
P0153 02 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1
P0171 system too lean bank 1
P0174 System too lean bank 2
And no Pending codes.


My plan was to bring it to a shop and have them charge me their $89 an hour for just 1 hour to show me what needs to be done and then I'd go on youtube and figure out how to do the work myself. The mechanic had me sitting 2 hours after our set appointment and said come back another time, sorry too busy. So I went online to try and fix this myself.



For the System Too Lean codes: I cleaned my MAF sensor with electronics cleaner and neither of those lean codes have come back and it's been driven about 20 hours over a couple weeks and the codes have been reset many times since then but no Lean codes have come back. Also, the p0153 p0133 were gone after cleaning the MAF sensor. The only code left was the Evap P1451.




I replaced my rusted fuel filler neck in hopes to fix Evap P1451 but just doing that didn't stop the code from coming back. Also about 10 days later and plenty of driving, the code P0133 came back and pending was P0153.


Yesterday, I replaced the Vapor canister solenoid on the charcoal canister (had a dead reading on a multimeter), and the evap code has not come back. I cleared codes and drove about 30 mins and turned engine on and off and drove etc and all codes were gone! usually they would have come back by then. So I took it today to the inspection station and failed because System Not Ready (because I cleared the codes too recently apparently. The check engine light was still off as I was leaving and then 20 mins later my eyes pop out of my head because the light comes back on and I have p0153 p0133 back on the scanner.


So, Do I just replace the upstream 02 sensors? I'm very tempted to just buy these for $20 on ebay. Worst case scenario is if I can prove they are faulty I can get a refund. The wiring looks fine.


I read it could also be and exhaust or exhaust manifold leak or vacuum leak. Or need a tune, whatever tune is, Tune up? New spark plugs?


I did inspect the whole line from the cat to the tail pipe and didn't see any leaks but I didn't check fully yetl, and also I saw a video on youtube he plugs the tail pipe with a rag and this will make an exhaust leak more apparent if there is one.




I really don't want to take the exhaust manifold apart and all the gaskets etc and inspect for leaks if there even are any. Just replacing the two 02 sensors I am thinking to try first but even that will be a nightmare I'm sure they're rusted on so bad, and the location is difficult to get to.


I only noticed this in winter/cold, when I would come to my first stop light about 5 mins from home, it would have a bad idle and every now and then it would actually stall, so maybe this is a symptom of what needs to be addressed (if it wasn't the MAF sensor leanness that I just fixed though). Other than that, it feels like it drives brand new. I can't tell if my gas mileage is good or bad - some people mention that in hopes to diagnose for these codes.


Any help greatly appreciated.


From a website:


P0153
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter




What causes the P0133 code?

• A faulty O2 Sensor
• A leaking exhaust manifold
• An engine vacuum leak
• An open or short in the wiring of the O2 sensor
• Soot or oil buildup on the O2 sensor (excessive buildup will clog the ports the sensor uses to measure the air fuel ratio)
• A dirty mass air flow sensor
• Incorrect fuel pressure

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...-blake-griffin









I have this reader in case it can diagnose further with live data?
OBD II & CAN Professional Scan Tool

 

I would hate to get you to throw parts at it and hope it fixes the problem,,, ( you posted wiring looks fine ) but it sounds like you need to replace the oxygen sensors,,, and I donot think I would E-Bay them,,, spend a few bucks and get motorcraft ones ,,, they will last much longer and improve your gas mileage ( these old Rangers can be picky and sometimes dont like E-Bay aftermarket parts),,, you should have at least two sensors and I would change them as a pair,,,, one in front of your converter ( upstream) and one behind it,,,, would like to know the mileage on your truck and a repair and upkeep record,,,, do you know if the oxygen sensors have ever been replaced ????

 

As mentioned in my long post (thanks for bearing with me), it's got 70K miles. It was city owned by the highway division and apparently sat in the yard unused a lot since it's a 2000 with such low miles. But it possibly sat in idle a lot for unaccounted miles because it's got a rotary light on it (basically a truck they park when replacing signs etc on the roads).




Upkeep schedule, all I did was change oil every 3K miles, changed serpentine belt idler, a few small things, changed rotors and pads etc. I doubt the 02s have been changed.




I think I have only three total o2 sensors. Actually possibly there is 4. From what I can tell, there's two right past the motor and before the cat, one of those on each side sort of behind the front wheels, and then there might only be one after the cat (but possibly two, I'm not positive). I believe the codes mean I only have to change the front ones. If I buy good quality, I google 2000 Ranger oxygen sensor bosch or denso and some are apparently the same $25 as the ebay ones but some are like $45. That's fine with me to spend $45, I thought the good ones were like $75. I think I'll just change the faulty ones for now.


Can someone link which ones I should get and which one goes in the front driver and the passenger side?


I posted this on 3 other forums in case their replies can help


http://www.fordrangerforum.com/4-0-s...rt-stolen.html?


http://www.therangerstation.com/foru....php?p=1569955

 

The old sensors can be a pain to break loose ,,,,(the one in front of the cat) and you can go to auto zone and rent/ borrow a tool for it,,,, we got a 16 point socket that fit it well ( dont remember the size but do remember it was 16 point) and cut off the plug and wires from the old sensor and used a impact and a couple of exstentions and maybe a wobble (just pull the trigger and hold on tight ) and it twisted right out ( we did soak it well the day before with WD40 and PB Blaster) and it came right off,,,, we tried the day before with a open end wrench and that was a joke,,, dont waist your time with a open end wrench... I have read in several places to replace all the oxygen sensors instead of just one,, but that is up to you,,, your truck and your money,,, but I think you will have to replace the other soon,,, if one is bad the other is usually right behind it

 

can someone recommend which sensors I should buy? either autozone or pep boys or online?


The removal tool, I'm either going to buy from harbor freight the $40 set and return it after using the mini offset one or renting it from autozone. The small space I think I need the offset one. I saw a video he used that. I will soak in liquid wrench. And put antiseize on the new one's threads.

 

I would spend a few extra bucks and get FORD MOTORCRAFT ones,,,, they are a little higher but worth it,,, these old Rangers donot like some of the auto zone and pep boys after market parts ,,,, you can take your chances with a cheaper one if you want,,, but when the cheap MUCKS up your gas mileage your not saving money !!!!!!!!!!! just remember what these sensors do,,, if your to rich or to lean because of a cheap sensor,,, your gas mileage will suffer and thus so will your wallet

 

I agree given the slow O2 sensor response codes, former life at possible long idle times & the 75K miles on it, the O2 sensors likely belong high up on the replacement parts list.

^+1 on Motocraft O2 sensors being a good choice. I've also successfully used Advance Auto on line purchase, with a discount code, of Bosch upstream O2 sensors on my 94 Taurus 3.8L 9 years ago & they're still doing fine & were a nice piece of work back then.
Wire length & connectors were correct, the sensor threads had anti-seize applied, so it was a plug & play job.

I opted to check out Advance Auto's "Loan-A-Tool O2 sensor socket kit. Turned out I needed the low profile crow foot socket, to get the rear bank-1 O2 sensor out as it was in a real tight spot with no room for a tall socket.
We get our deposit back upon undamaged return of the tool.

I did opt to add a bit more high temp nickel loaded Loctite anti-seize to the O2 sensor threads, being careful not to get any on the sensor innards & torqueing them to spec with a good torque wrench.

Mine weren't rusted & the factory had applied a good anti-seize to the OEM O2 sensor threads, so they came out without much effort.
If you find your heavily rusted in, try heating the thread area some to get it good & warm, but not Hot, then apply a 50/50 volume mix of acetone & tranny fluid as a rust buster & let it soak overnight if necessary. If replying the rust buster mix, warm the area again before another application.

DON'T add silicone grease to the O2 sensor electrical connector innards, as the O2 sensor needs to Breathe through the wires & connector to properly function.

First disconnect the battery B- cable before replacing the O2 sensors, so it'll wipe the corrupt fuel trim tables the old sensors have built. After replacing the O2 sensors, before driving, First perform the cold & warm idle relearn routine here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9080519. Then if you need to have it inspected soon, perform the Ford emissions monitor reset drive cycle procedures here in post #4 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ml#post1469870 .

After driving it some, if the CEL isn't reset, scan to see if any Pending codes are stored & let us know how it goes.

 

thank you very much spook and paw.


I was going to get the bosch or densos from Autozone and rent their 02 socket free. Bosch or Densos are $45-$55 each plus tax there. I see bosch and densos online for only about $25 shipped (and they're genuine and with the wiring plug already attached because I don't want to splice the old plug on). I can get the offset socket on ebay for $7 shipped.


I see Ford Motorcraft ones online which were recommended and about $35 on amazon but not sure if those are the exact kinds for my 6 cylinder xlt 4.0L, and I never used amazon or plan to. Direct from ford after plugging in my specs it cost $60 plus shipping but doesn't say up or downstream or left/right Bank 1 or 2.




I know I need both the upstreams but not sure which is which online some don't specify this but autozone says which is Right or Left and upstream or downstream.


Would save me about $40-$50 buying online if I don't mess this up and order the wrong ones.


can someone link me the Motortech ones or densos or bosch for a good deal online? If not, I'll try and figure this out tonight. thanks again.

 

Go here, enter the best promo code that meets your needs & save some of your Gold!!!! https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

 

thank you pawpa, that actually did save me about $25-$35 vs autozone pepboys etc. I can get both the fronts for $66 with that code either bosch / NTK, or denso.


I read denso usually beats bosch in forum threads and that NTK (same as ford motorcraft suposidly) are the best choice. I was all ready to oder the NTK but I said let me check what the truck actually has already so I don't possibly run into problems using a different brand I have heard of happeneing, and what I have are Bosch with a ford logo stamped, so I'm going to order the bosch right now and pick up. I hope I don't come back and someone says big mistake that I should have got NTK but we'll see.


also about wire length, many different brands have many different wire length for each front right/left sensor but they all say they're a direct fit for my exact make and model and engine. The wire actually has something to do with how the sensor breathes and operates. But I have read it doesn't at all matter the length (as long as it's long enough and not too long that a pipe melts it but if too long you can possibly bunch it up and tape it together). There's newer much rarer type of sensor I'm assuming I don't have but those kinds are dependent on the wire length.

 

The Bosch O2 sensor wires for the 94 Taurus 3.8L were the same length as the OEM they replaced, not too long, not too short, just right. They also came with anti-seize on the threads, but as I said, I added a little more being careful not to get any on the sensor tip.
The Bosch have worked just fine for the Taurus 3.8L.
Good to hear you were able to save some of your gold. I saw a 30% off/TRT30 code on a $50+ order, so did you use that one?

 

This is an email I just sent to Bosch after buying my sensors an hour ago, just seeing if I can get some insight from here in the forum. thanks.



I have a question about oxygen sensors.

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2WD 4.0L 6 Cylinder XLT Pickup.

I plug that into Advance Auto Parts website to find the matching O2 sensors.

I need Left and Right Upstream sensors.

I purchased what said to Be the Right Upstream and Left upstream. I bought these exact ones


Part No. 15716 For the LEFT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...oxygen+sensors

Part No. 15718 For the RIGHT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...ors#fragment-2


So as I'm picking up my order I pre paid online for, I checked the contents to see if anti seize was already included on the threads by Bosch (which it was thanks).

But I noticed the wire length of both 15716 and 15718 were the same. But advance auto Parts website states in the links that
the 15718 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 18.9 inches

And the 15716 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 10.6 in

Both of the wires are 10.6". Which, although a bit alarming since the description stated 18.9 inches, is fine with me because the cables on my existing original O2 sensors are 10.6".


However when checking this, I accidentally mixed up which sensor was in which box. And I checked the model numbers stamped into the actual item but they are both the same thing. They both say
0258005716

but ones says
0258005716
618231

and the other says
0258005716
2092433



The boxes are different, one says 15718 and the other says 15716 (but I mixed them up and don't know which is which although alarming is that both have stamped into them 025800 5716.

I asked the guy at the store to check another box of either of these so I can know which is which based on the stamped numbers on the actual item but I bought the last one of each. I asked to just refund the order and I would buy from another Advance auto Parts but he said it was saying it can't be returned.

So my questions to you are, which of these is Right and which is Left? I know sometimes it might not even matter (as long as they're both upstream sensors, or downstream sensors), but I don't want to chance it (and replacing these is a nightmare in a tiny space on this engine). If they were universal, then I doubt all the major parts sites specify differnt parts for each Left and Right.

also, can you tell me Right and Left, which is Passenger side and which is Driver side?

Thanks

 

yea I used the TRT30 but everything turning into a nightmare now. I made a other thread just for good measure so the titled had what I was asking about but I'm new here and have to wait for Mod to approve a new thread.


Here's what happened though




This is an email I just sent to Bosch after buying my sensors an hour ago, just seeing if I can get some insight from here in the forum. thanks.



I have a question about oxygen sensors.

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2WD 4.0L 6 Cylinder XLT Pickup.

I plug that into Advance Auto Parts website to find the matching O2 sensors.

I need Left and Right Upstream sensors.

I purchased what said to Be the Right Upstream and Left upstream. I bought these exact ones


Part No. 15716 For the LEFT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...oxygen+sensors

Part No. 15718 For the RIGHT
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...ors#fragment-2


So as I'm picking up my order I pre paid online for, I checked the contents to see if anti seize was already included on the threads by Bosch (which it was thanks).

But I noticed the wire length of both 15716 and 15718 were the same. But advance auto Parts website states in the links that
the 15718 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 18.9 inches

And the 15716 is
Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 10.6 in

Both of the wires are 10.6". Which, although a bit alarming since the description stated 18.9 inches, is fine with me because the cables on my existing original O2 sensors are 10.6".


However when checking this, I accidentally mixed up which sensor was in which box. And I checked the model numbers stamped into the actual item but they are both the same thing. They both say
0258005716

but ones says
0258005716
618231

and the other says
0258005716
2092433



The boxes are different, one says 15718 and the other says 15716 (but I mixed them up and don't know which is which although alarming is that both have stamped into them 025800 5716.

I asked the guy at the store to check another box of either of these so I can know which is which based on the stamped numbers on the actual item but I bought the last one of each. I asked to just refund the order and I would buy from another Advance auto Parts but he said it was saying it can't be returned.

So my questions to you are, which of these is Right and which is Left? I know sometimes it might not even matter (as long as they're both upstream sensors, or downstream sensors), but I don't want to chance it (and replacing these is a nightmare in a tiny space on this engine). If they were universal, then I doubt all the major parts sites specify differnt parts for each Left and Right.

also, can you tell me Right and Left, which is Passenger side and which is Driver side?

Thanks

 

Compare the Bosch web site O2 sensor for your truck description, part # & lead length to what you got from Advance. Kinda sounds like a packaging error, or maybe someone had opened the boxes & got the parts mixed up like you did.
If you find what you received aren't the correct part numbers for your engine, go back to the Advance store & ask for the store Manager to get involved, bet he can get it squared away.

 

Good idea, I will call another advance auto and see if the part numbers on the actual sensor are the same per the box they came in or if what I got actually was a mix up in the boxes possibly someone had already mixed them up.

Someone also said it doesn't matter but I want to make sure because this is a really tight replacement and I don't want to do it twice or possibly mess up the threads!




Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD
There is no difference in the sensor itself, they are interchangeable, upstream, downstream, left and right
Wire length(pigtail) and electrical connector is the only difference.

Regular O2 sensors, now called Narrow band, output a voltage of .1 to .9 volts, depending on Oxygen levels in exhaust.
Upstream or downstream , left or right, doesn't matter, Ford, GM, Dodge, doesn't matter, they are all interchangeable if wire and connector match up.

Recently there was a change to A/F(or AFR) sensors instead of O2 sensors, they are known as Wide band sensors.
They output a wider voltage range, 0 to 5 volts, this allows better fine tuning of air/fuel mix so better MPG.
These are not interchangeable with older O2 sensors, engine computer(PCM) needs to have software/firmware for the expanded voltage range.