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Battery gauge way low

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  #16  
Old 07-22-2016, 05:33 PM
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what year truck? on my 88 to 91 trucks, i had to whomp on the top of the dash to get the volt gauge reading properly. all 6 of them were like that.
the needle in the gauge was slightly bent and would rub against the gauge face when it was low voltage or the key was shut off.
 
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
What voltage was the truck putting out while running?

Did they LOAD test the battery? Or just check voltage?
Just checked voltage I think. I started the truck and it tested something with the starter, cold cranking amps of the batt, the volt and alt. At the end of the test, all said pass except the battery. It said "replace battery".

Originally Posted by Phil Woolfson
Check your wires? I recently replaced a mishmash of wires with some high end fine stranded big wire I had left from an AV install in my other car. Soldered and sealed all ends. I've had 2 grounds go up over the years.
The positive cable does have some corrosion on it but not enough to cause any issues i wouldn't think. Plus the fact the volt meter looks good until the fan kicks on makes me think that the cable isn't the issue but I'm gonna let a local good shop look it over for me.

Originally Posted by Tedster9
I'd tend to think, that if everything is otherwise OK, a stock OEM alternator should do fine. A larger alternator should not be "required", as such.

One aspect that is sometimes overlooked, as mentioned earlier, run a voltage drop test on the individual battery cables and grounding points and alternator hardware. It's simple, quick and easy, and no disconnecting anything. It's based on the fact that electricity likes to take the easy path.

So if we put a voltmeter in parallel with a wire, or connection, while under load, the voltage drop in that circuit will be displayed as a positive voltage on your DVM. Since an alternator and other high current components will be crippled with ohms resistance practically too small to measure, they are always tested under load, for voltage drop.

Just a few hundredths of an ohm resistance anywhere in the circuit will reduce alternator output by 1/3rd. Maybe not enough to notice at idle, but apply any sort of load, and it will not be able to keep up.

Because of this phenomenon I bet a lot of alternators are replaced unnecessarily. It's not that bigger alternators ain't better but it makes more sense to get the performance we already paid for, instead of heating up wire and spending even more on replacement alternators. Worth checking out anyway.
Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by tjc transport
what year truck? on my 88 to 91 trucks, i had to whomp on the top of the dash to get the volt gauge reading properly. all 6 of them were like that.
the needle in the gauge was slightly bent and would rub against the gauge face when it was low voltage or the key was shut off.
It's a 93. The volt meter reads fine until the fan kicks on. Then it goes low "like below the N" of normal and stays there and eventually just goes lower and lower.
 
  #18  
Old 07-25-2016, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by choate
What's up everyone. Haven't posted in a while which has meant no issues w the truck lol. Well today the battery gauge continued to go lower and lower. I had the batt, alt and starter checked. The diagnostic tool said the batt need replaced even thought it read like 12.8 volts. What's weird is the batt indicator on the dash continued to go down which to me would indicate a problem with the alt (charging). Battery is from 09 so I'm gonna replace that and see if it helps but is it possible the gauge connection itself is bad or something?
Sounds like an alternator to me.
 
  #19  
Old 07-25-2016, 02:55 PM
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Put a multimeter on the battery with the truck running and find out the voltage.
 
  #20  
Old 07-25-2016, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by choate



The positive cable does have some corrosion on it but not enough to cause any issues i wouldn't think. Plus the fact the volt meter looks good until the fan kicks on makes me think that the cable isn't the issue but I'm gonna let a local good shop look it over
It doesn't take very much corrosion to cause some weird problems. Clean BOTH cables real good and then see what happens.
 
  #21  
Old 08-09-2016, 09:57 AM
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Shop said it needs a new alternator. The voltage is 14 when the truck starts but when the e-fan kicks on (by temp or by turning on the AC) it drops to 12.3. Hoping this fixes it. They are down a man at the shop and said it may be next week before they can get to it.
 
  #22  
Old 08-09-2016, 09:58 AM
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btw after the fan trips the voltage down, it never recovers. It just keeps getting worse and worse is what I experienced before i took it to have them look it over so it makes sense that it can't keep up with charging the system
 
  #23  
Old 08-09-2016, 07:27 PM
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Nice! Quick and easy fix and not too expensive for you. I have noticed when an alternator fails everything electrical slows down like wipers and headlights dim... have about ten minutes to get it home before it dies!
 
  #24  
Old 08-10-2016, 01:26 PM
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^Haha that is about what happened! I barely made it home. Another update. The shop said even the new alt is getting quite a load on it after the new alt was put on and said it "probably" would be fine but wasn't sure. He suggested I put it back to stock (clutch fan) and I told him to proceed. That being said, I will have a 6 month old Flex-A-Lite variable controller for sale in the near future and possibly the Taurus electric fan. That may cost more to ship than it's worth though. Let me know if anybody is interested.
 
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