So I re-read what you posted and maybe I confused you. But I'm just going to run a cable from the passenger battery to the alternator. But the way I was thinking to route it out of the way, will require a tad less than 5' of cable.

But regardless the voltage drop is super low.

 

Not confused, just making a general statement about cabling. And 60" is 5ft if that is what you refered to.

The difference in length or relative size of an added cable does not have a big difference in voltage drop. However, an added parallel cable does have a larger impact on voltage drop compared to the stock cable only. At full 140a, around 0.08vdc. Adding the 4ga parallel cable gives you approximately the equivalent of a 2ga cable off the alternator vs the stock 6ga cable.

But if you're running down the road with the batteries fully charged and maybe just the a/c on, the current output isn't that high and voltage drop is lower. Yeah, more info that's just confusing.


Interesting that with the dual alternator setup on 87crewdually's truck the post and connector are back to the top position.

 

Well that answers the question of the single factory 140 versus the one from the dual having different output locations...

Still can't rep ya' for all you contribute here, Jack... Nice work!

 

Not sure I'm making things more confusing or less confusing.

 

We do get a spectrum of folks: some want to know all their options and the whys; others want an exact recipe of what to buy, links to where to buy it, and directions for installation...

Come to think of it, we have forum members actually going over to other member's homes and doing the work! Those are usually special cases, but it is a family, made up of all different abilities...

There must have been something in my coffee this morning....

 

You're too far away to come to my house Scott.

 

All we would get accomplished is creating empties, burping and telling jokes

Our trucks and wives would hang us...

 

 

Does anyone know the size of the oem nut on the pulley? I don't have access to my truck until the weekend and I'd like to be prepared with the socket when I go down later

 

I used 24mm because all I had at the condo was metric. Worked fine.

 

Appreciate it. Thanks

 

Just an update. I noticed at first the alternator was at 13.4ish idle, then I did the 28mm pulley, that brought it to damn near 14.0v idle. Today was pretty hot out and the output was around 13.4. I dont know if I just caused accelerated death lol or its just from the extreme heat.


Also had anyone looked u to Remy 92570 alternator? Does Remy have a good track record? I'd assume better than a reman from AA? The Remy should be 100% brand new.

 

The regulator is temperature compensated, so as the temperature increases the voltage will drop to protect from overcharging the batteries. That hot number is a little low but I'd go for some time before condemning it. The over speed of the alternator will not harm it, it just operates as though the engine is running faster, like the kicked up cold rpm. Diesels do not have as high of a top rpm as a gas motor so it will never rev to the point of tearing itself apart.

No knowledge of the other alternator.

 

Thanks. Today the voltage was up around 13.8 so yeah the temp throttled the voltage as you said. Which you already knew..

Hey question. I added that 4ga cable from the alternator to the passenger battery. I didn't see much of a voltage increase. Or is that more of a voltage to the battery faster mod?

 

I don't really promote that cable layout. Scott and others have done that cable, they are happy with it, but for me the additional cable from the alternator to the pass batt terminal does as much. It's one of those two ways to skin a cat. The positive side of the cabling from the pass battery, to the drivers battery and then to the power box is already sufficient once the engine is running.

It's the negative side where some improvement can be made.