Sorry for the threads lately but I couldnt come across a true 100% answer on this. I need an alternator that will have the same footprint ( from the pulley to the back case ) as what I have now. Im 99% sure I have the 140a as the window sticker makes note of a HD alternator installed. I have a custom CAC tube and its tight... Does anyone know if the bosch is a true match? OR the Car Question from AA? I bought the LN 230 and well, doesnt fit. WAY too big.... Also I need the same stud/positive outlet as the OEM, which comes out on the right side( if you're looking at the alternator installed ) . Here is what Im working with.


Has anyone installed an overdrive pulley on an oem unit, is it worth it? I'm starting to think and hope that the car quest from AA will bolt up and be an exact match. The real only good thing is an easy replacement

 

You never noted that the top side of your motor had aftermarket options. The 140a is larger in dimensions then the 110a, so you really need to know if you do have a 140a or 110a on there now. If a 110a, yes an overdrive pulley will still gain some amps at idle. Top end will still be the same. The clocking of the alternator will have to be changed as the ones you've mentioned are posted up top. Any alternator shop can do that for you.

 

Thanks. Do you know if there is a number stamped or casted into the alternator, so I can verify which one that I do have


BTW just talked to ford and they said it appears that I have the oem 140

 

Then just put a smaller pulley on it.

 

Will do. Lastly, I'd assume the wiring upgrade should still be done, right? Should I still go with a 4ga from alt to passenger battery? What about the interconnect size?

Fuse size on alt to pass battery?

Do I really need to do two ground from each battery to the frame?

 

Your not increasing the alternator output any more then the 140a you already have, you're just bringing the output curve to an earlier rpm. Considering your alternator clocking, if you already have a 140a from the factory you could leave the wiring alone. If you want to possibly reduce the voltage drop during glow plug operation you can add the additional cable protected by fusing. For a 140a alternator an 8ga cable is sufficient, go up to 4ga if you like. Fuse protection for the additional cable should be 50a minimum.

I've never recomended two grounds off of each battery. The interconnecting battery to battery and the negative cable from the one frame location to the engine block has nothing to do with the alternator, it's about getting the batteries to work together.

 

Thanks, I appreciate it

 

Just for an FYI, this is the depth comparison between the OE 110a unit and the Bosch 140a unit. 140a left, 110a right.




It's the diameter where they get really larger. 110a, 140a, 230a.

 

Sweet. Thanks. So question.

How come my 140 alternator connection is on the back lower right(the stud) if you're looking at it.

I'm wondering if the Bosch will work. Are you willing to sell yours used possibly, depending on price

 

I've got another round of tests planned for the alternators, this time in hot weather to complete my year long project.

Did you not do the modifications on your truck?

 

I did do them. But I should have a 140a. I'm thinking maybe the Bosch will be good for warranty issues. But honestly, I may go oem.

 

I've not had a factory 140a in my hands, so I can't confirm if the connections were to the top out of the factory. Depending on how the back of an alternator is assembled it can be positioned in three different clockings. The 110a, the Bosch 140a and the Leece-Neville are clocked the same. So are most I've seen.

Your picture in your first post shows a number of modifications, so I'm assuming whomever installed all that reclocked the alternator.

Or a rebuilder screwed up.

If the clocking was supposed to be straight up.......

 

That alternator has been on the truck since I bought it. AFAIK it's an oem 140. I'll have to check for a casting in it, to check and see if it's oem

 

Mine is for-sure the 140 from the factory and it's output is on the other side relative to the 3 alts in the picture (more like 10 o-clock, looking at the back). It is possible there is a difference between the Single 140A unit from the Factory and the 140A that was the upper of a Dual Alt. system, I don't know...

 

Thanks Scott. So your alt "points" to the drivers fender, right? Same as the OP I'm guessing.