Well today I got an oil change in my 2004 f250 (5.4). Anyways, ive run into several forums where people are running non-recommended oils such as 5w-30 in their engines. What are yalls thoughts?

 

You should not run 5W-30 in this engine. There are oil passages that are so small that not enough 5W-30 will flow through them, causing wear issues.

 

I know the 2001 they switched to 5w30.
Must be different.

 

2004 f150 what oil? | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

Lets think about this some more.
In 2000 Ford specified 5W-30 for this engine, then in 2001 they specified 5W-20. I don't know if any internal engine mods were made in 2001 that would require a operating temp 20 weight lube only. Maybe the VCT workings need it but I don't know. Maybe it was done for fuel economy reasons, to help their CAFE figures, after finally developing a 5W20 recipe that would hold up.

I've read of folks going back to a 5W30 to quiet this engine down, so if that's why your thinking of trying a 5W30, why not first consider researching on PQIA http://www.pqiamerica.com/ to find a 5W20 recipe with a higher 100c viscosity figure than the recipe your using now, one with a 100c viscosity at the top end of the 20wt range & see how that does.

If your of a mind to jump right into a 5W30, use that site to find a 5W30 that's on the thin/lower viscosity end of the 30wt 100c viscosity specification & ease up on a thicker lube that way.

Any 5w lube is going to be Way thicker/higher viscosity on a cold start, than a 20 or 30wt will be at the 100c operating temp. So no matter if its a 5W20, or 5W30, at cold start up, both will be very close in viscosity & flow rate, just that the 20 will be lower viscosity/thinner at the 100c operating temp, than a 30wt.

SO, if the variable cam timing plumbing didn't change after 2000, it seems to me it wouldn't have a problem with a 5W30, especially if you choose one with a 100c viscosity on the low end of the 30wt scale, that way at operating temp it would look more like a 20wt on the higher end of the 20wt viscosity scale to the engine.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

On my truck, the first time I ever brought it to the dealer for service in 2003 they went to 5W-30. Said there is a TSB out on it

 

I just had my oil changed and there's no mention of oil wieght on the paper work. The little tag in the window says 5w-20. The last time I had it changed they used 5w-30, paper work said so. I called dealer and they said they always use 30. The cap on engine says 5w-20. I have never changed my own oil so if there's engine trouble from using the wrong oil it's on the dealer. So far with a little over q50,000 miles on an 06 F150 XLT 5.4 all seems good.

 

Here is a TSB that recommends 5W-20 for this engine that might be worth reviewing. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=132462

Note they also suggest reviewing the oil filter installed & how long its been in service.

I know from experience that some brand oil filters cause start up engine knock & flickering oil pressure light at idle, or when coming to a stop, in various vehicles in my family fleet vehicles, so if your using other than a OEM oil filter, try the specified filter & see what happens.

In our Neon 2.0L, the specified Mopar/Fram made filter always caused a cold start up rattle, but changing over to a Motorcraft FL-793, or the longer & larger FL-400S has stopped the noise.
On the Daughters Saturn, the catalogue called for aftermarket Fram oil filter caused the oil pressure light to flicker on at idle, or when coming to a stop. Installing the specified GM filter immediately fixed that problem.

SO, on some engines, oil & filter will make a difference & some variable valve timing hdw & plumbing can be sensitive to oil operating temp viscosity, so best to not stray from what the mfgr specifies as Mark has suggested.

 

correct. Unfortunately I interjected and was talking about my truck which this TSB doesn't cover.

 

In a 2008 SOHC, the 30 is too stiff on the rings as an added quart to 20W during the blending period. One Qt.


Lube here is Valvo Synthetic 5-20W


Homebase Wal doesn't sell Valvo so in Titusville Wal had a red cap Valvo Synthic for 'long mileage SEALS' meaning rings. Ring sealant like STP ring sealant.


One screwdriver shaft of STP drippin's and ZOOOOOM over the Rockies. With V 20-50 racing oil as a base no less. In a B18.


Added 2 red caps to the next week we'll change the oil n filter for a cross country ...for another round trip of 500 miles to Titusville.


A minor STP effect with a very minor ring drag poss in my imagination but not like adding 2 5-20W Qts that would be real slippery again. The red cap were not slipperyier and not blended till maybe 100m miles. 3X longer than 2 5-20W. Red caps are meant for aging vehicles with an STP like factor n maybe a very different viscosity curve than grey caps. The red caps were something like adding a lead additive to Amoco or Chevron


The Synth 5-20W does not flow out running at 65-70 on the Interstate nor 60 on 2 lane black tops. 5-20W does flow past lubing rings around town. Good ! Does the 30W do this ? prob not. Not good. The idea is 20W flows past rings for lubrication.


Bosch filters have a better valve than Frams. That would be an obvious move by Bosch and maybe countered by Fram if sales were down but I doahn think anyone would notice. See comment on bang bang crunch at startup.


The engine starts better quieter longer with Bosch.



If the rig makes noise at startup TURN IT OFF. Wait 20 seconds n start again. Change oil n filter with a new valve.


On oil gallery size.....here the SOHC produces startup noise when oil needs changing. Worn out Synth may be thicker than new Synth as less slippery.

 

I'm blending Chevron with Shell in a 5.4.


Weekdays I drive around the block to work. Chevron improved running. The additive is excellent in 5-10 gallons at 30 miles before more Chevron.


On the highway, part Shell midgrade and part Chevron mid or hi-test following a dose of Chevron additive before the first out of town fill up. half Shell mid and half Chevron hi test runs the Outerstate with power. AAA


Valvo 5-20W Synthetic goes past the rings around town n lesser on the highway like an SU Carb pump.


and I assume Chevron's PFTE blends into the Synth.


The Bosch plugs are exstatic.


The additive was first tried into abt 5 gallons left n driven 15 miles before adding 10.


Amamazing: 3 stages of cure each tied to an ingested chemical, running much better. I cudna believe it: On the lane out to the Blvd, I use 2nd at abt 10mph. The additive produced a smooth upshift into 3rd in 3rd not second.


With fresh Castrol in the automatic.


Try this. Wroks gud.

 

synthetic seams remarkably long lasting, effective as a ring sealer for older engines....as advertised ..can you believe it ?


Probabbly not but yes several weeks n hundreds of miles past the last projected complete oil change .. the effect remains. No valve rattle with Bosch filter.


A no brainer marginal experiment with Synth and first valve rattle, add a cup of RCP.


As in a prior post the addition of 2 Qts fresh RCV to 5-20W Valvo Synth for a 600 mile trip before a cross country produced a more than wanted ring seal effect as too much STP.


What RCV would do with non Synth ? try a fresh Qt !


A serious chemtech upgrade from STP

 

Many regular oils are now labeled as semi-synthetic, even lowly Havoline & Chevron now finally say in the PDS & on the container that they are semi-synthetic.

Our crank case lubes are so good now that on oci's less than say 7500 miles, it won't make much, if any difference in wear numbers if it's full synthetic, semi-syn, or just mineral.

Now if we are into extended oci's, or execute really severe drive cycles on a regular basis, or have an engine known to beat the oil up from shear, or cook it in the top end, ect, then the right full synthetic recipe may be worth the investment & UOA's can give us a clue on how our choice it's doing. Of course for any crank case lube to perform, we must be filtering the air, fuel & oil well also!!!

 

Lower priced oils have synthetic components allowing a claim of 'semi-synthetic.' What percentage Qt is this ? 2% additive scraped from the bottom of the JB Epoxy tank ?


As per Valvo's 'semi-synth' at what ? half n half ? I guess..... giving, compared with full synth, intolerable ring drag in the 5.4.


Completely disagree with you but experience with semi-synth is near -0-. Not only is the full appreciably slipperier giving easier Interstate cruising but lends itself to longer OCI or as I proceed adding a half Qt, .25 Qt before the day's traveling long distances of 45 mile trips on the Interstate, the backway into Santa Margarita....where the used and beaten to pieces long chain polymers reform with the splash of new polymers.


Both slipperiness and rejuvenation would be far less with less than full synthetic oil.


OCI factor is more in the area of the rejuvenation with new oil for a longer trip BEFORE the scheduled oil change. More is more here not less is more.

 

keep in mind ford changed from 5w-30 to 5w-20 around 2001 (i believe) for better fuel economy. I was wondering if anything changed internally on the 2v