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Yes an engine that won't start is pretty much a torture test on steroids for the battery and starter too. Allow the starter to cool down several minutes after any extended cranking.
Place the battery on a low amp rate and let it charge overnight, this is important.
Yeah, if you're getting a fat bluish spark that snaps loud in the air, probably OK. It's just that condensors cause a lot of trouble today it's worth bringing up.
Update-
I took my battery into Auto Zone to get it charged overnight, and just went back to pick it up this morning. They told me that the battery was bad and I'd have to buy a new one. So a bad battery would keep the truck from starting obviously, it just sucks that I have to buy a new one. Any recommendations for a good 6 volt battery? Thanks
Get the largest, heaviest battery that will physically fit. A lot of folks only pay attention to CCA but reserve capacity is important assuming the engine is running a generator.
High CCA in a given size is achieved at the expense of reserve minutes, generators differ from alternators in that they do not charge very well at idle and therefore, at times, the entire electrical system runs off the battery alone, so it has to be capable of providing a lot of current for a long time. AGM would be excellent.
Good news everyone!
I got her running this morning, all I needed was a new battery and had to do some slight adjusting on the carburetor idle screws and getting the choke plate in the right position, and boom she started right up. I am so relieved that the battery was the only issue. Heres a pic getting up our monster driveway, which takes some practice getting up.
Then I just drove a little around the block and everything worked perfectly!
Good deal!! It's recommended to keep the battery on a smart charger or battery tender, usually old rigs like that aren't used as daily drivers or driven very often and so consequently they sulfate up, cells short out, etc, as you found out. I use them for everything with a battery and they will pay for themselves many times over.
Good deal!! It's recommended to keep the battery on a smart charger or battery tender, usually old rigs like that aren't used as daily drivers or driven very often and so consequently they sulfate up, cells short out, etc, as you found out. I use them for everything with a battery and they will pay for themselves many times over.
Thanks! Yes that's a good idea. Do you mind me asking what model your charger is?
I don't think it matters too much, have used the DelTran battery tenders. There are even less expensive "wall wart" types. The idea is simply to just keep an already charged battery from self-discharging, so it gets just a slight overcharge from resting voltage. Usually about 13.20 volts or thereabouts. They are really too small to efficiently recharge a heavily discharged battery. But they will keep a battery ready to go indefinitely.
I don't think it matters too much, have used the DelTran battery tenders. There are even less expensive "wall wart" types. The idea is simply to just keep an already charged battery from self-discharging, so it gets just a slight overcharge from resting voltage. Usually about 13.20 volts or thereabouts. They are really too small to efficiently recharge a heavily discharged battery. But they will keep a battery ready to go indefinitely.
Don't forget I think he has a 6 volt system.
TractormanabIll
Hey '52 Ford
Good going! You showed a lot of patience & got it done!
More pics & tell us your plan?
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Thank you
Yes right now I need to get the brake lights working and get new tires before I can really start driving it. Once I finish that my grandpa had bought a 12v system but never got around to putting it on so I will have to do that some time down the road.
Here I am backing it out for the first time since it was running. Took a little while for me to get used to the clutch but hey at least I didn't stall it...
06-16-2016, 09:54 AM
