For what it is worth I have the gain set at 10 and high towing my 12,500 Lb. (dry) fifth wheel and like others here I do not feel it braking, but I know it is working and when I manually engage the trailer brakes it will not lock the trailer brakes (skid the tires) but will bring the whole rig to a full stop in fast fashion. I also am in tow/haul mode with the exhaust brake activated when hauling.

 

It SHOULDN'T skid the wheels as the controller is working in tandem with your trucks anti-lock feature!

 

This annoys me to to no end with the my 5th wheel slider. I can't just actuate the brakes and use them to hold the trailer while I actuate the hitch. have to chock the trailer. Annoying.

That said, the thing works VERY well otherwise. I'm on 7.5 with a 15k trailer. I had it on 8.5 but I was leaving skid marks while braking during turns. Brand new drum trailer brakes, both axles.

 

You should be able to hold the trailer stationary while you work the slider.


Perhaps your trailer brakes need adjusted.

 

You should be able to just use the manual slider switch on the dash to hold the trailer.

Denny

 

Is there a way to lock the manual slider temporarily? I have found a few instances where this would be handy.

 

There is no way to lock it temporarily.

 

Spring clamp, or the really small trigger style clamps for woodworking and such work great.

 

If you want to activate the electric trailer brakes temporarily activate the break-away system it will supply power from the trailers battery to the brakes. Just don't leave it too long as it will drain your trailer battery quickly.

 

Interesting this definitely does not work for me, but the trailer brakes are good and the controller works on the road. pulling the emergency cable works too, but almost more work.

we have a shortbed and a manual sliding hitch, so this is something we do fairly consistently - never have gotten the manual slider to lock the brakes stopped with the IBC. Worked just fine on the old progressive I had on the last truck....

 

Did you check to see if all the brakes on the trailer are working or need adjustment?

 

I'm currently running this 5ers set of trailer drum brakes on 9. The last 5er, virtually the same weight and identical part number Dexter brakes was run on 8. Yes, I do feel the trailer braking, but it does seem to take a very long distance to whoa up the truck/trailer combo. My fix - disc brakes which will be installed before next season.

Electric brake functions are far too dependent on things like wiring, condition of the magnets, condition of the brake hardware, condition of the drum magnet surface and braking surface, shoe to drum adjustment plus brake shoe condition and materials and in Dexter's case, are they still bonded to the shoe steel.

So, the setting for that controller - it's whatever works best for your combo

 

One other concern if your brakes don't work as well as you'd hope is any trailer with EZ lube axles. The cheap Chinese wheel seals that manufacturers use can't hold the pressure when you pump the bearings with grease and it ends up blowing out the seal and contaminating the shoes and drums.

 

I'm running mine at 6.5 for my 11.5k trailer and have no problem holding the trailer still while I sliding my hitch back and forth. I have to do this every time I hitch or unhitch. Going to change the hitch to a non-slider since I have enough room between the trailer and cab.

 

Interesting - we moved this weekend into a new (very tight) campground in Downtown Tempe, AZ. 300 mile tow in the mountains from Lake Powell to get there, Trailer Brakes definitely work. Manually holding to full gain while stopped, definitely...doesn't apply the brakes at all. Had to chock the wheels to slide the hitch, as usual.

I wonder if its a 2005 thing - its the first year of the IBC and a lot of people swap them for the 07 version as I guess it keeps the trailer brakes applied at slower speeds - the 2005 seems to fade them out at about 20 mph, I think the 07 its down to about 5.