Crank Case Filter Bad?
#16
When I saw all the condensation in there, I was rather satisfied that a coating of oil helped to prevent corrosion.
#18
Fair enough. Like I say this is a personal preference mod that can be argued either way thats why these kits exist.
#20
#21
With due respect to Tug, I don't think he's torn down a single 7.3L PSD. He's tore INTO them many times (injectors and what-not), but never the engine itself, to my knowledge.
Tug, if I'm wrong, apologies, but I can't remember you ever posting about tearing an engine down.
Stewart
Tug, if I'm wrong, apologies, but I can't remember you ever posting about tearing an engine down.
Stewart
#22
#23
You can tear into an an engine (eg: under the valve covers, the glow plugs, valve springs, injectors, exhaust manifolds, etc) but actually tearing down an engine means parts of the block and internals are being removed. Making a long block a short block, removing the crank, the cam, the pistons, etc.
It's not potato vs potahtoh. It's apples versus oranges. Two different things all together.
To me a partial tear down means removing a cylinder head (or heads), but not the engine internals.
If an engine is torn down, the block itself has been taken apart, If an engine has been torn into, then the block and it's internals are still together, and peripherals are being taken apart.
Stewart
#25
For the 7.3L PSD: Riffraff Diesel CCV Crankcase Vent Kit for Ford 7.3L 99-03
This is called the CCV Mod.
Also, as others have already posted, that part is called the doghouse.
Stewart
This is called the CCV Mod.
Also, as others have already posted, that part is called the doghouse.
Stewart
Wow that kit is expensive
#26
You can put your own kit together for less by using heater hose. The only issue is that the heater hose gets soft and leaches oil over time and is easy to get a kink in. I know that Riffraff and some others use fuel rated hose on their kits so it won't do that and can last to long term use but it does raise the price. Last time I did it 3/4" fuel rated quality hose was about $6 per foot and it made putting the kit together myself more than just buying it.
#27
I wouldn't reroute it. I'm no expert on this, so it warrants further study: I've been informed serious car folk want slightly negative pressure in the crankcase - and the turbo intake is a perfect way to do this. I've even heard of race car drivers installing vacuums on the crankcase.
I could never understand why people freak out that their engine breathing system is getting a nice fog for lubrication.
I could never understand why people freak out that their engine breathing system is getting a nice fog for lubrication.
#28
#29
You can put your own kit together for less by using heater hose. The only issue is that the heater hose gets soft and leaches oil over time and is easy to get a kink in. I know that Riffraff and some others use fuel rated hose on their kits so it won't do that and can last to long term use but it does raise the price. Last time I did it 3/4" fuel rated quality hose was about $6 per foot and it made putting the kit together myself more than just buying it.
Where should I run the hose . I found a crank case filter at auto zone its a metal canister with an 3/4 inlet and an 1" outlet . Seems like it will do good .
#30
Search some threads and you will see lots of reasons not to use a filter. They are too restrictive. Just vent to atmosphere or leave it stock.