injectors new/reman/one or set?
#1
injectors new/reman/one or set?
Today I called a shop to schedule looking at my AC and we got to talking about my hard start situation. My miles are 225K presumably on the original injectors. My buzz initially failed on 7 cylinders but after revx and running a while, subsequent tests, all pass but cylinder contribution fails on #2.
Over the phone, the mechanic said that the injectors are probably dribbling not squirting when it is trying to start and that's why it's hard to start. (After block heating it for 3+ hours it starts easily). If I replace injectors, I like the sound of new injectors because they're new and because I've read some bad online reviews (albeit 2011ish) about pensacoladiesel.com reman injectors going bad and the owner having to pay for extra labor putting the reman replacements in. (Pensacola Diesel is who the local mechanic recommended). Got me thinking about any reman injector if it goes bad either I'm back in there or I gotta pay a mechanic again to replace.
1) how much does a buzz test correlate with an injector "dribbling not spraying"?
2) since cylinder 1 is failing contribution test could it be the only cylinder that is contributing to the hard start, and rough running engine?
3) does it make sense to just replace 1 or 2 injectors or go ahead and do them all right now?
4) Am I much better off with new injectors or is there a really dependable reman source that some of you have used many times to get a sense if they are good quality?
Over the phone, the mechanic said that the injectors are probably dribbling not squirting when it is trying to start and that's why it's hard to start. (After block heating it for 3+ hours it starts easily). If I replace injectors, I like the sound of new injectors because they're new and because I've read some bad online reviews (albeit 2011ish) about pensacoladiesel.com reman injectors going bad and the owner having to pay for extra labor putting the reman replacements in. (Pensacola Diesel is who the local mechanic recommended). Got me thinking about any reman injector if it goes bad either I'm back in there or I gotta pay a mechanic again to replace.
1) how much does a buzz test correlate with an injector "dribbling not spraying"?
2) since cylinder 1 is failing contribution test could it be the only cylinder that is contributing to the hard start, and rough running engine?
3) does it make sense to just replace 1 or 2 injectors or go ahead and do them all right now?
4) Am I much better off with new injectors or is there a really dependable reman source that some of you have used many times to get a sense if they are good quality?
#3
Join Date: Sep 2014
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1. The buzz test only verifies that the electrical portion of the injector is working. Not an exact correlation unless the solenoid is not
2. A single injector would cause issues if it is not firing period.
3. At 225k, I would consider doing them all.
4. If you can afford new then purchase new.
http://shop.performanceinjectionsystems.com/main.sc ask for Tim $1649 for NEW stock
IF not, Jim at Rosewood or Ryan at Full Force
2. A single injector would cause issues if it is not firing period.
3. At 225k, I would consider doing them all.
4. If you can afford new then purchase new.
http://shop.performanceinjectionsystems.com/main.sc ask for Tim $1649 for NEW stock
IF not, Jim at Rosewood or Ryan at Full Force
#4
I`m trying archoil 6200 in fuel and 9100 in oil as I`ve been chasing the same exact issue. I was following Comsupany other post and looked promising. Amazon ships the 9100 and arrives Friday so Saturday Ill post up any news. 6200 however wont arrive for a week and Ill swing by Napa tomorrow to see if local, if not I will wait.
Are you going this route Comsupany?
Are you going this route Comsupany?
#5
injectors new/reman/one or set?
I`m trying archoil 6200 in fuel and 9100 in oil as I`ve been chasing the same exact issue. I was following Comsupany other post and looked promising. Amazon ships the 9100 and arrives Friday so Saturday Ill post up any news. 6200 however wont arrive for a week and Ill swing by Napa tomorrow to see if local, if not I will wait.
Are you going this route Comsupany?
Are you going this route Comsupany?
I hope to have the truck back Fri or Sat. Tuesday I get new tires. Wednesday planning to take it to the mechanic for the AC. Around then I'll have to decide on the injectors. If I can swing it I'm considering a HPX line and a "Standard Regulated Return Fuel System Kit" from strictlydiesel. I just don't know if the last two items need to be done when I do new injectors or 2000 miles later.
#6
What issues are you expecting the 6200 and 9100 to help with? I want to see how things turn out for you but I'm sorta getting close to just having new injectors put in. I plan on going stock though.
I hope to have the truck back Fri or Sat. Tuesday I get new tires. Wednesday planning to take it to the mechanic for the AC. Around then I'll have to decide on the injectors. If I can swing it I'm considering a HPX line and a "Standard Regulated Return Fuel System Kit" from strictlydiesel. I just don't know if the last two items need to be done when I do new injectors or 2000 miles later.
I hope to have the truck back Fri or Sat. Tuesday I get new tires. Wednesday planning to take it to the mechanic for the AC. Around then I'll have to decide on the injectors. If I can swing it I'm considering a HPX line and a "Standard Regulated Return Fuel System Kit" from strictlydiesel. I just don't know if the last two items need to be done when I do new injectors or 2000 miles later.
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#8
But this makes me wonder hard about glow plugs/relay and oil viscosity/
age....
Just a thought
#9
injectors new/reman/one or set?
Have you check for codes? I have two that I also need to address P0476, P0541 but don't know if those contribute to any of these issues.
#10
injectors new/reman/one or set?
Oil viscosity??? I've got new oil in mine Don't remember the weight but it's rotella T. Also as I mentioned above I have a P0476 and P0541 error.
Also, everyone if I'm getting contribution errors on 1-2 cylinders and buzz test passed on all, doesn't that just mean I need only two injectors? Or can you have "clogged" or "bad injectors" that don't show up on the contribution test. Are there any other AE nubers I can look at that will indicate the health of the injectors without a tear-down? I remember looking under the drivers side valve cover and the injectors were different colors so maybe some where changed.
#12
In answer to the thread title, you can click the 160/100 injector link in my signature. Tons of feedback in there, including some from an injector rebuilder.
To summarize what you find there: If you go reman, the best and most reliable option is to send yours in to a reputable rebuilder - but that involves weeks of waiting with the truck down. I had remans, then within a few thousand miles I upgraded to new. Whole different world - the new ones sound so "crisp".
I'm not convinced this is a bad set of injectors, or that one needs to pour magic potions into the truck's orifices. A multimeter is a big weapon in the arsenal against mystery right now, as is synthetic oil. I would go to synthetic oil rather than messing with the chemistry of dead dinosaurs. Oh wait... I did go to synthetic oil. Many who have gone this route were able to substantially extend the life of their injectors - by way of making cold starts much easier and less smokey.
I mentioned the multimeter - using that to read the ohms of the individual glow plugs can answer a few questions. Reading the output of the relay will answer a couple more. Clicking the UVCH link in my signature is another biggy. The good news about the multimeter tests is it takes a common tool that many people have, and puts the power of knowledge in you hands without the need to tear into the valve covers. These tests take minutes to conduct... with nothing more than a step ladder to reach the engine, the multimeter, and a 10mm socket to unplug the 42-pin connector.
To summarize what you find there: If you go reman, the best and most reliable option is to send yours in to a reputable rebuilder - but that involves weeks of waiting with the truck down. I had remans, then within a few thousand miles I upgraded to new. Whole different world - the new ones sound so "crisp".
I'm not convinced this is a bad set of injectors, or that one needs to pour magic potions into the truck's orifices. A multimeter is a big weapon in the arsenal against mystery right now, as is synthetic oil. I would go to synthetic oil rather than messing with the chemistry of dead dinosaurs. Oh wait... I did go to synthetic oil. Many who have gone this route were able to substantially extend the life of their injectors - by way of making cold starts much easier and less smokey.
I mentioned the multimeter - using that to read the ohms of the individual glow plugs can answer a few questions. Reading the output of the relay will answer a couple more. Clicking the UVCH link in my signature is another biggy. The good news about the multimeter tests is it takes a common tool that many people have, and puts the power of knowledge in you hands without the need to tear into the valve covers. These tests take minutes to conduct... with nothing more than a step ladder to reach the engine, the multimeter, and a 10mm socket to unplug the 42-pin connector.
#13
injectors new/reman/one or set?
One of those go into the Diesel, right? Are you worried about it drudging up junk in the tank and clogging lines?
#14
I`m at 402k miles on original injectors and I always use diesel clean and try to fill up at 1/2 tank so drudge shouldn`t be a prob, think I might as well get a fuel filter tomorrow since its been about 8k miles since last.
#15
In answer to the thread title, you can click the 160/100 injector link in my signature. Tons of feedback in there, including an injector rebuilder.
To summarize what you find there: If you go reman, the best and most reliable option is to send yours in to a reputable rebuilder - but that involves weeks of waiting with the truck down. I had remans, then within a few thousand miles I upgraded to new. Whole different world - the new ones sound so "crisp".
I'm not convinced this is a bad set of injectors, or that one needs to pour magic potions into the truck's orifices. A multimeter is a big weapon in the arsenal against mystery right now, as is synthetic oil. I would go to synthetic oil rather than messing with the chemistry of dead dinosaurs. Oh wait... I did go to synthetic oil. Many who have gone this route were able to substantially extend the life of their injectors - by way of making cold starts much easier and less smokey.
I mentioned the multimeter - using that to read the ohms of the individual glow plugs can answer a few questions. Reading the output of the relay will answer a couple more. Clicking the UVCH link in my signature is another biggy. The good news about the multimeter tests is it takes a common tool that many people have, and puts the power of knowledge in you hands without the need to tear into the valve covers. These tests take minutes to conduct... with nothing more than a step ladder to reach the engine, the multimeter, and a 10mm socket to unplug the 42-pin connector.
To summarize what you find there: If you go reman, the best and most reliable option is to send yours in to a reputable rebuilder - but that involves weeks of waiting with the truck down. I had remans, then within a few thousand miles I upgraded to new. Whole different world - the new ones sound so "crisp".
I'm not convinced this is a bad set of injectors, or that one needs to pour magic potions into the truck's orifices. A multimeter is a big weapon in the arsenal against mystery right now, as is synthetic oil. I would go to synthetic oil rather than messing with the chemistry of dead dinosaurs. Oh wait... I did go to synthetic oil. Many who have gone this route were able to substantially extend the life of their injectors - by way of making cold starts much easier and less smokey.
I mentioned the multimeter - using that to read the ohms of the individual glow plugs can answer a few questions. Reading the output of the relay will answer a couple more. Clicking the UVCH link in my signature is another biggy. The good news about the multimeter tests is it takes a common tool that many people have, and puts the power of knowledge in you hands without the need to tear into the valve covers. These tests take minutes to conduct... with nothing more than a step ladder to reach the engine, the multimeter, and a 10mm socket to unplug the 42-pin connector.