Brakes... so many options
#1
Brakes... so many options
Alright, I am overwhelmed.
It just seems like the options on brakes are unlimited.
I have two questions:
1. Re-doing all the brake lines -
Should I buy pre-formed hard lines, buy pre-flared lengths, or make my own from scratch?
I don't yet own a flaring tool, and likely won't be doing this often.
From my research, "Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line Coil" certainly seems interesting. It seems like I could buy it in the right lengths, with the fittings installed, and then bend it to fit.
2. The overall system -
Should I rebuild my current master cylinder, or should I buy a new dual-chamber cylinder (and should I add the booster?)?
I think I am going to pass on the disc conversion up front. I am trying to keep my costs low, and my plan for this truck is to have a simple "around-town" weekend ride. It seems like the disc conversion on the front wheels is about $600 and the dual MC plus booster around $300.
Thanks very much for any advice you can offer.
- Bill
It just seems like the options on brakes are unlimited.
I have two questions:
1. Re-doing all the brake lines -
Should I buy pre-formed hard lines, buy pre-flared lengths, or make my own from scratch?
I don't yet own a flaring tool, and likely won't be doing this often.
From my research, "Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line Coil" certainly seems interesting. It seems like I could buy it in the right lengths, with the fittings installed, and then bend it to fit.
2. The overall system -
Should I rebuild my current master cylinder, or should I buy a new dual-chamber cylinder (and should I add the booster?)?
I think I am going to pass on the disc conversion up front. I am trying to keep my costs low, and my plan for this truck is to have a simple "around-town" weekend ride. It seems like the disc conversion on the front wheels is about $600 and the dual MC plus booster around $300.
Thanks very much for any advice you can offer.
- Bill
#2
No matter what you'll end up having to cut and flare your own lines or have excess line wadded up all over the truck. Flaring lines, while not everyone's favorite pastime isn't all that difficult.
If you're keeping the drum/drum setup go to the dual master for safety reasons. And while there will probably be a number of those that disagree I never, ever use a rebuilt master cylinder. Doesn't matter if you buy it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself it isn't worth the few extra bucks difference. If the few extra bucks mean that much you've picked the wrong hobby.
If you're keeping the drum/drum setup go to the dual master for safety reasons. And while there will probably be a number of those that disagree I never, ever use a rebuilt master cylinder. Doesn't matter if you buy it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself it isn't worth the few extra bucks difference. If the few extra bucks mean that much you've picked the wrong hobby.
#3
Dual res. for sure. If you lose the fronts you still have the rears. Give yourself the assurance that everything is new and as it should be. There was a thread about the flaring tool awhile back. I'm not good at posting links but maybe someone can do that. Seemed it was an Eastman product? Much better than the one I have. You may be able to save enough buying the tool and bulk lines versus the prefab lines which might need some mods anyways. Just my 2.
#4
I posted a thread back in March titled Brake Line Flaring Tool, about the Eastwood flaring tool. I tried to post a link here but I couldn't figure out how. I received a lot of very good info about the flaring tool, so I bought one. It is extremely easy to use and makes perfect flares every time. Even if you use preflared lines, you will still need to cut and flare some of them so you don't have a lot of extra line. Federal Hill Trading sells the copper nickel alloy line and will rent the flaring tool and bending tools to fab your lines.
Mark
Mark
#5
Thanks gentlemen - dual cylinder it is.
Also, much appreciated advice on the brake lines. When I looked up Federal Hill, I assumed they'd have only one location 200 miles from me, but in fact.... they will mail you the rental flaring tool! Wow! That is definitely the route I'm going I'll be calling them Monday.
Thanks again!
Also, much appreciated advice on the brake lines. When I looked up Federal Hill, I assumed they'd have only one location 200 miles from me, but in fact.... they will mail you the rental flaring tool! Wow! That is definitely the route I'm going I'll be calling them Monday.
Thanks again!
#6
#7
Hi Kirk -
I am likely going with one of two options from Mid-Fifty.
Either 5953-MM or 5955-MM.
Same price, but the former mounts to the firewall, the latter, mounts in the stock location (the frame under the driver's feet).
I'm still trying to research which is better (and if I need the booster)...
I am likely going with one of two options from Mid-Fifty.
Either 5953-MM or 5955-MM.
Same price, but the former mounts to the firewall, the latter, mounts in the stock location (the frame under the driver's feet).
I'm still trying to research which is better (and if I need the booster)...
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#8
My advice would be: Go to the Super Nationals in Tennessee and talk one on one or call Mid Fifty and discuss your brake system requirements with them. They are a knowledgeable bunch and have dealt with almost any type of brake swap there is. You can also call POL or CPP that are major aftermarket providers of brake, steering and suspensions for F Series trucks. You will likely need residual valves in your lines if you go with a under the cab master and may even require a proportioning valve on your rear lines to get your brakes to function correctly.
Just an FYI MOST Big Box parts stores rent cheap line flaring tools. I used pre made lines on two of my trucks and only needed to shorten the drivers rear line because they didn't have a line short enough for that run. If you bend your own lines be very carful not to over bend or kink the line as that will reduce or stop fluid flow. Keep us posted on you brake upgrade!!
Just an FYI MOST Big Box parts stores rent cheap line flaring tools. I used pre made lines on two of my trucks and only needed to shorten the drivers rear line because they didn't have a line short enough for that run. If you bend your own lines be very carful not to over bend or kink the line as that will reduce or stop fluid flow. Keep us posted on you brake upgrade!!
#10
I think I finally decided in a game plan:
1. dual cylinder and booster, frame mount, remote fill, clutch linkage kit
MF - $389
(frame mount w/ remote fill seems most straighforward)
2. front disc conversion
Speedway - $279
(the price of fully rebuilding the front drums would have been almost as much $!)
3. drum rebuild in rear
LMC - $215
4. CNF lines from FedhillI find it a little odd that the Speedway front disc kit is quite a bit less than the comparable kit from MF and LMC...
Also, I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew bending my own lines. From the tutorials I've watched, it seems straightforward enough, but it's uncharted waters for me!
1. dual cylinder and booster, frame mount, remote fill, clutch linkage kit
MF - $389
(frame mount w/ remote fill seems most straighforward)
2. front disc conversion
Speedway - $279
(the price of fully rebuilding the front drums would have been almost as much $!)
3. drum rebuild in rear
LMC - $215
4. CNF lines from Fedhill
Also, I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew bending my own lines. From the tutorials I've watched, it seems straightforward enough, but it's uncharted waters for me!
#11
I think I finally decided in a game plan:
1. dual cylinder and booster, frame mount, remote fill, clutch linkage kit
MF - $389
(frame mount w/ remote fill seems most straighforward)
2. front disc conversion
Speedway - $279
(the price of fully rebuilding the front drums would have been almost as much $!)
3. drum rebuild in rear
LMC - $215
4. CNF lines from FedhillI find it a little odd that the Speedway front disc kit is quite a bit less than the comparable kit from MF and LMC...
Also, I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew bending my own lines. From the tutorials I've watched, it seems straightforward enough, but it's uncharted waters for me!
1. dual cylinder and booster, frame mount, remote fill, clutch linkage kit
MF - $389
(frame mount w/ remote fill seems most straighforward)
2. front disc conversion
Speedway - $279
(the price of fully rebuilding the front drums would have been almost as much $!)
3. drum rebuild in rear
LMC - $215
4. CNF lines from Fedhill
Also, I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew bending my own lines. From the tutorials I've watched, it seems straightforward enough, but it's uncharted waters for me!
I realize not everyone has TIG wire around, but any decent welding supply will stock it. It runs about $20 for a one pound tube of aluminum 3/32" wire in 3 foot lengths.
#13
If you get yourself some aluminum TIG filler rod, you can use it to mock up complicated/compound bends BEFORE you commit to a hard line. It makes laying things out much easier.
I realize not everyone has TIG wire around, but any decent welding supply will stock it. It runs about $20 for a one pound tube of aluminum 3/32" wire in 3 foot lengths.
I realize not everyone has TIG wire around, but any decent welding supply will stock it. It runs about $20 for a one pound tube of aluminum 3/32" wire in 3 foot lengths.
Good idea - thanks!
I've also heard soldering wire works well for mock-ups.
#14
I had not seen that particular company yet, but $450 for the complete kit (minus mc and booster) is about $170 more than the Speedway kit.
Could be a difference in some of the parts (Chinese bearings?), but it's tough to tell from these minimal write-ups.
Thanks!
#15