What's Under my Hood?
#1
What's Under my Hood?
This weekend, I started on my very first project - a 1959 F100. I've got the bed off and cleaned up the rear half of the frame and started really looking under the hood. My problem is I cannot exactly identify everything on the left (passenger?) side of the engine. I can identify the distributor and starter (easy), but I'm not quite familiar with the rest:
Between the distributor and starter - I'm assuming this is the fuel pump. It's got some lines running over to the carb.
On the passenger fender well, there's a small "thing" right under the hoses going to the heater core. I have no clue what that is. Starter Relay?
Ditto for the 2 "boxes" on top of the fender closer to the front.
Aside from that - aren't there some ignition components missing, like a magneto or something? Edit: It seems I'm at least missing the coil.
Thanks for the help in advance!
Between the distributor and starter - I'm assuming this is the fuel pump. It's got some lines running over to the carb.
On the passenger fender well, there's a small "thing" right under the hoses going to the heater core. I have no clue what that is. Starter Relay?
Ditto for the 2 "boxes" on top of the fender closer to the front.
Aside from that - aren't there some ignition components missing, like a magneto or something? Edit: It seems I'm at least missing the coil.
Thanks for the help in advance!
Last edited by willjpw; 04-25-2016 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Figured out one thing I'm missing...
#2
#4
Welcome to FTE Will
You'll find a 1959 Ford Truck Shop Manual available in reprint, either in paper book form or digital CD, take your pick from the usual suspects. About $35, this is money well spent. Have turned wrenches of different sorts for a while and still refer to mine often. Doing a task thoroughly - and correctly - the first time saves time, and money and avoids duplication of effort.
Also like the Motor's Repair Manuals, from about copyright 1950 or thereabouts. I found a ratty old library copy for about ten bucks online. Very well explained, easy to understand, and no BS. The manuals are important to understanding in particular points style ignition, generator charging systems, and carburetors, none of which really exist today, so there isn't anybody left around hardly to ask anymore. You'll be your own expert soon enough if you study these, and dive in. Thanks for signing up. More pics too, pliz.
You'll find a 1959 Ford Truck Shop Manual available in reprint, either in paper book form or digital CD, take your pick from the usual suspects. About $35, this is money well spent. Have turned wrenches of different sorts for a while and still refer to mine often. Doing a task thoroughly - and correctly - the first time saves time, and money and avoids duplication of effort.
Also like the Motor's Repair Manuals, from about copyright 1950 or thereabouts. I found a ratty old library copy for about ten bucks online. Very well explained, easy to understand, and no BS. The manuals are important to understanding in particular points style ignition, generator charging systems, and carburetors, none of which really exist today, so there isn't anybody left around hardly to ask anymore. You'll be your own expert soon enough if you study these, and dive in. Thanks for signing up. More pics too, pliz.
#6
Thanks guys. I'm planning on getting the shop manual, just a little impatient on assessing things.
This evening I pulled the radiator out and will test it for leaks and do a flush tomorrow. On the advice of my neighbor who is in the middle of restoring an Alfa Romeo, I pulled the spark plugs out and put a little bit of oil in each cylinder to sit overnight before I attempt to crank by hand.
This evening I pulled the radiator out and will test it for leaks and do a flush tomorrow. On the advice of my neighbor who is in the middle of restoring an Alfa Romeo, I pulled the spark plugs out and put a little bit of oil in each cylinder to sit overnight before I attempt to crank by hand.
#7
Excellent idea. Some like Marvel's mystery oil, it is really a type of penetrating oil. If it's been sitting a long time, this may take weeks, or even longer to get it unstuck. Many have had engines fire up and run very well for years after using this method, so don't get TOO impatient.
Since the radiator is out, plan on ordering new heater hose and radiator upper and lower. Test thermostat in a pot of boiling water suspended by a string. All/anything that contains rubber is bad on an old truck and needs replaced.
Engine blocks also contain a pipe fitting type screw or bolt or two, low down near the pan line, that will have access to the engine coolant passages. Remove these and flush the block. Usually they will be so plugged with rust, scale and sediment they need an ice pick or something to get the party started. Stand back!
Since the radiator is out, plan on ordering new heater hose and radiator upper and lower. Test thermostat in a pot of boiling water suspended by a string. All/anything that contains rubber is bad on an old truck and needs replaced.
Engine blocks also contain a pipe fitting type screw or bolt or two, low down near the pan line, that will have access to the engine coolant passages. Remove these and flush the block. Usually they will be so plugged with rust, scale and sediment they need an ice pick or something to get the party started. Stand back!
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