So i was at a local wrecking yard and happened to stumble across a spicer 6041 brownie box, just laying in the dirt! I looked at it and thought about it, but I decided against it and went off to look at a couple f600's in the back lot.

Well, wouldn't ya know, it just looked so forlorn laying there in the dirt, I just couldn't stop thinking about it. So since I'm just such a kindhearted caring fellow, I had to bring it back and give it a good home.

Anyways, here it is:





It's a monster, and it was still the smallest one in the yard. And it was the only one with a parking brake on it, which was a big plus.

Now I have to figure out how to get the 8 bolt companion flange mated to the 1330 size U-joints I've got for my driveshaft... Spicer makes a 1410 yoke for it and my local driveline shop has one for a cool $300... And then that would need to be adapted to the 1330 on the back of my np435, so that $300 is just the start! Not happening!! The plan was to have no more than $500 into the whole driveshaft. But I have a buddy with a lathe and we might be able to cook up something...

The plan is to run 1330 joints from the back of my np435 to the input on the brownie with a 1/2" plate adapter. It has a good 1610 joint on the back, and the slip might be savable, if it is I'll have a shaft cut down and have the 1610 on one end and the 1410 on the other end, with a 1410 yoke on my dana 60.

I'll post more pictures and info as I get further along, I've jumped in with both feet on this one!

Sam

 

Hi,I just put a 6041 in my 79 f350,there are pics of it in the"New Brownie thread" on the last few pages.Some thoughts:my front trans is a BW T18/1330 output,to a 1550 input on the spicer and a 1610 out. Do yourself a favor and throw away the rear brake assembly,it's worthless and heavy and worthless.I used a whole set of 80s e brakes cables/parts that relocate the e brake down the drivers side frame rail.What are you thinking of putting it in?
Chris

 

I'll look up the pictures, now that its in, how do you like it?

What makes the brake such an issue? The lining on the shoes looks wacky, but I have a place here that can reline them. I have to admit, having that brake was one of the things that made me buy it. I've wanted to put disk brakes on the back axle, but parking brake calipers are $$$ so I was hoping this would be a two birds, one stone kinda deal. I'd get more gears, and better brakes.

It's going in my 2wd 73 f250, I think I have just enough wheelbase to make it work! Future plans are to put this cab and motor/trans onto an f350 cab n chassis frame with the long wheelbase. And then convert it to 4x4. Both of those projects are a ways down the road.

I just checked out the 1610 slip yoke and it looks fine, just a bit dirty. Now I just have to go back to the yard and get a driveshaft to match...

Sam

 

And if you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge you for the 1330-1550 driveshaft?

Sam

 

Following........

 

Hello,That shaft is 100% new parts and was $433.00 shipped to my door.Very important to installing as it was needed first to locate the spicer close to the front trans and still have the room to remove the front trans without touching the rear trans.Also just "finding" the "right" pieces from the JY/parts counter to put together a shaft to go from 1330 to 1550 is not going to happen in reality.Custom installs require $$$$.
As for the brake drum assembly, I would throw it out:the biggest reason if you throw the rear shaft for whatever reason,you then have no mechanical e brakes at the wheels,the factory ebrake runs down the center of the truck,you will not have the space for it and the spicer,it is still heavy,more linkage to hook up,Also your f250 has way less frame than a 2wd f350,space WILL be an issue,I could go on but you get my point.
Future 4x4 you do not want to mount it in front of the transfer case unless it has FWD or Oshkosh cast in to it.
Chris

 

P.S.: Driving is great.I now have the option of removing your house from its foundation and then dragging it down the interstate doing 80mph.Keep the aux up/down shifts below 2000/2100,with no syncros and big but not many teeth on the gears along with to much rpm ,it ain't gonna go in.The end of April I am going from PA to Arkansas and back to pick up my trailer with it.
Chris

 

Thanks, how far apart did you put the transmissions?

Sam

 

Far enough apart to install the drive shaft that dictated how far apart they are in the first place.If I remember correctly 14 1/2 inches ish+-.My point being you need to know the dimensions FIRST of the shaft parts you will be using.So then you can place the spicer correctly.I also had to cut a hole in the floor in front of the rear seat to get the correct shaft angles and height for the proper angles.What wheel base are you dealing with? Did you get the shifter for it?
Chris

 

Makes sense, I'll see how short of a shaft I can get made up. I am looking into making an adapter so I can bolt a 1330 companion yoke to the 8 bolt yoke on the brownie.


The truck has 133" wheelbase.
I didn't get the shifter for this particular box, but I have one out of a Louisville that should work once I cut the shifter "stick" down to a reasonable length.


As far as the parking brake goes, the plan was to upgrade the rear shaft to handle all the torque, and put the weak link in between the main box and the brownie.




-sam

 

Hello,the idea is to engineer the weak link out.You will drop the rear shaft long before the coupling shaft.Your still going to run into space problems with the wheel base and shaft angles:1to3 degrees max at the joints and about 1.5ish degrees between transmissions and drive shafts also with mounting the spicer at the same degree as the main but on a lower or higher plain. I would personally opt to look for a longer truck.
Chris

 

If need be, I will look into getting a double cardan joint on the back of the brownie and changing the pinion angle, for the time being I am married to the 133" wheelbase... This cab an body will wind up on a longer frame at some point, but that isn't going to happen for a while.

Sam

 

I just talked to my local driveline shop, and they can make me a 6 3/4" long slip shaft with a 1330 on one end, 1410 on the other, which would put the rear u-joint center almost exactly where it is now with the carrier bearing! Only issue is... it's about $100 a inch! May be my only option though...

Sam

 

Chris, after reading through your posts in the brownie thread, I gave action machine a call and talked to Bob, and he was very helpful! And, he was able to get me an 8 3/4 shaft for $400, much better price! If I had just a little more room they could make an 11-12" shaft made up for quite a bit cheaper.

Bob figured out with a 1330 conversion joint in a 1350 slip yoke, a splined stub and 1410 weld yoke, we could get a collapsed length of 8 and 5/8" (I think, it may have been 8 and 7/8", I forgot to write it down)

Anyways, the driveshaft budget is blown to shreds, but thats ok. The extra gears will be more than worth it.

Sam

 

Hello again Sam,As you saw Action Machine did my shafts,Bob is very sharp.That is who I worked with to come up with all the parts I needed. you will be happy with their work.
When installing a aux. in a semi there is lots of room and miles for shafts and can pretty much put it where ever,but same trans in a pickup you must work in reverse, do to the lack of length between main trans and the rear.
You do know that you will be omitting the speedo cable on the main trans and running it off the spicer.Cable and reduction box both came from Texas Industrial Electric for mine.Kustom = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Chris