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This goes out to all those who have done the x or v/b mod springs on their excursions.
I know there are a ton of resources and info on this Modification for the excursion, but i have one specific to my situation. I replaced my rear excursion springs with the f250/350 b-code pack, first without doing the mod (adding the 2 extra leafs from ex pack and spacers). I tow a 11k lbs camper and would like a little more support and lift. I just pulled it all apart and am in the process of doing the mod. My dilemma is that by putting the two small leafs inbetween the bottom load/helper spring and the main pack, it looks like the main pack would now have to go to a negative arch before the bottom helper can "help". Is anyone who did this mod putting a good amount of tong weight on the rear? and how is it holding up?
This goes out to all those who have done the x or v/b mod springs on their excursions.
I know there are a ton of resources and info on this Modification for the excursion, but i have one specific to my situation. I replaced my rear excursion springs with the f250/350 b-code pack, first without doing the mod (adding the 2 extra leafs from ex pack and spacers). I tow a 11k lbs camper and would like a little more support and lift. I just pulled it all apart and am in the process of doing the mod. My dilemma is that by putting the two small leafs inbetween the bottom load/helper spring and the main pack, it looks like the main pack would now have to go to a negative arch before the bottom helper can "help". Is anyone who did this mod putting a good amount of tong weight on the rear? and how is it holding up?
thanks
Yes , a lot that have done it & LOAD'M up... the EXtra springs are for the little EXta lift (thickness of the pack) as much as anything.
Howdy teacher, and welcome to the EX forum!
I run modded B codes (the typical mod of the bottom 2 EX leaves and the thicker EX spacers), 2 sections of the old stock traction bar cut down and added to each side and the F-350 tapered blocks in place of the factory blocks. This has increased my unloaded ride height by just over 4.5". Up front I use modded X codes with the B code's unusable on an EX top overload leaf added to the bottom of the X codes. This gives an additional 3 7/8" of ride height.
I also tow an 11,000 lb TT with about 1400lbs of tongue weight using a Hensley Arrow WD hitch with 1400lb spring bars.
Here is my wagon unloaded.
Here it is hitched up and loaded for a trip.
What trailer are you towing? And where are you located?
It's a 2012 jayco 314 bs. I originally got it set up for my 99 f350. But with three kids and long trips i wanted the "luxury" of the excursion. I have been workin on it for a year now trying to get it to handle at least similar to my 350. It tracks really bad and I get "sucked" in every time a tractor passes me. Oh yah, Long Island ...
Me personally.... if you already replaced the springs, I'd add an air spring kit and be done with it.
^^ What he said ^^
I did the V/B swap and while it did ride better, got rid of the steering wander, and gave me a nice subtle lift, I did still see some sag that made my headlights get a bit high on the road. My issue is that I carry 200-300lbs of gear in the third row seat area all the time, so some of the lift was lost before ever hooking up a trailer.
I added an AirLift kit to the rears...Air Lift 5000 series air springs that sit where the rear jounce stops are and the compressor/wireless manifold under the driver seat. With a wireless controller, I can ride level at 15psi when not towing, then when I tow hit the remote to get 65psi (adding 2" of height to the rear axle) that then gets sucked up from the tongue weight, putting me right back to level ride again.
It's a bit more $ in the long run, but you can dial in the firmness of the rear end anywhere from 5psi to 100psi from the driver seat, have the system maintain that pressure automatically, and always have a level ride. Plus, I can air up tires using the schrader valve of the system if I need to.
Yes air bags may be next but I am trying to also make this my everyday winter driver as well and heard that airbags can "slap" a little.
And yes I see that everyone who lives a super duty life knows that this mod is "required" and has been tried and tested!! However, knowing that all last summer I ran the leafs flat, making use of that overload leaf. Now with the two extra leaves in there, to me, it looks like the main pack has to go past level and negative before receiving "help" from the overload. Again I hate to question what everyone loves but I am just callin it as I see it..
Well, as has been said earlier, often more leaves are added to gain a little static height..... less so for added load carrying. If you can drill through the ends of the overload leaf (not easy), you could add a small bump stop to both ends to engage that spring earlier.
As far as air spring slap, mine are made to be run at 5 psi when running empty, which makes them act very close to not being there. I realize the kit is a couple three hundred bucks, but often provides the necessary results.
What hitch are you using? Maybe something to think about, but the top tier hitches like the Prp Pride and Hensley Arrow really do a great job of keeping the truck and trailer playing nicely together. I can still feel the big rigs pass but the little air push/suck from them has our combination perform more like a straight body truck vs a truck and trailer, the combination moves as a single unit, there is absolutely NO trailer sway at all. I just made the 612 mile tow from home to TN on the 11th and that same trip back on Sunday and enjoyed excellent towing behavior with one hand on the wheel all the way.
You have a nice trailer, getting these big TTs dialed in along with our short wheelbase EXs can be a bit of a challenge.
I am running the reese dual cam with 1200lbs bars. Already sank over $3500 in parts and upgrades plus the initial $11k for the truck. I am afraid that i also put the wrong tires on this "short" rig too. I have a set of 285 goodyear duratrack on my f350 crew cab that I absolutely loved. so when i got this truck i got another set. I think part of my stability problem with the trailer is also the softer sidewall in the goodyears. I was just too afraid to go with the newly released BFG KOs last spring.
Are those Goodyears Load Range E? If so they should be up to the task, I'm running 305/70R18 (35.28") Nitto Duras so I have even more sidewall than your 285/75R16s do and they handle the load very well.
Do you know exactly what your tongue weight on the TT is? Is the Dual Cam fully reloading the front axle to it's unhitched weight? If that trailer is really 11,000lbs a tongue weight of only 11% would be more weight than those 1200lb bars are rated for. And if you are only running with that much TW then that may be part of the handling issue, I try to plan for 15% of the GVWR for TW when setting up a WD hitch if practical. With an 11k GVWR TT that 15% TW would be 1650lbs, pretty heavy. With my hitch the heaviest bars it can take are 1400lbs and that comes out to about 13% TW for our 11k TT, which is just about spot on for our actual TW. You can get a rough idea of your weight transfer from the hitch with a set of unhitched front fender well to ground measurements vs the same measurements with it hitched and WD applied.
What other "parts and upgrades" have you installed? The more complete the info you can supply to us the better we can chew on your situation and offer ideas to help. Exactly what are the current "tracking" and handling issues that you are dealing with?
I understand your concerns with the additional EX short leaves making the bottom overload farther away and having the pack flatten out more to fully engage it. Here is my current setup as described above, it illustrates what you are thinking about the extra distance to the bottom overload plate.
I'm still on stock springs. I added the RAS and my Ex tows amazing. I don't know much about hitches but I followed Tom's (WE3Zs) advice and picked up the Hensley arrow. It was a night/day difference between it and the old standard weight distribution hitch.
I don't know about the negative arch as I'm on stock springs with no helpers, but ditto on the Hensley Arrow. I gave up on my Dual Cam system I'd used for 15 years and picked up a HA off CL for $500. It cost me a couple of cans of spray paint and a can of grease to restore it. I only have the 1000lb spring bars on the HA and so I'm looking to put in air bags to help with TW. The 1000 lb bars nearly but don't quite restore front axle weight. The HA cured 95% of my towing issues - no more wander, no more sway. My Dual Cam system did a better job with weight distribution with its 1400lb bars, but there is no way I will ever go back. BTW my 30' Jayco weighs in about 9k with about 1.1k of TW for comparison.
Regarding V/B-mod longevity, I don't know if it was the source I acquired my new springs from or just use and abuse... My X has settled noticeable in the two years the springs have been on there. I used to clear 35's fine, now it runs like crazy at full lock. Comparing before and after measurements, I have lost about an inch front and 1.25-1.5 rear. Towing my friend's Duramax CC/SB the *** end was squatting so hard we had to load his truck on backwards and take backroads slowly to avoid trailer wag due to weight distribution. Even the Chevelle on a tandem axle 20' flatty make my truck squat nearly 2.5". Keep in mind I do NOT have other items to optimize towing performance (DD, occasional medium tow duty) such as the RAS or bags out back, just springs that were new when I go them.
03-22-2016, 04:25 PM
